stiil the new L7s15 and the lanzar amp

renier
10+ year member

Vivo BOoOM .i.(0_o).i.
2x600W RMS at 4 OHMS 2x1200W Max at 4 OHMS

1x2400W Max at 4 OHMS Bridged 2x1000W RMS at 2 OHMS

Bridgeable at 4 Ohms

2 Ohm Stereo Stable

My L7 is a dual 4ohm

at 4ohms,my sub sucks..i was hoping to shake my suv with that kind of sub&ampli

if bridged,will harm the mosfet and power,i can put it on stereo mode?

the last thing is,can i put that on a 2ohm stable stereo w/o damaging my amp?

where will i wire these?on the left or right channel?

thanx

 
Hey!

What model is the amp? Even if you're getting 600rms x 2, you should be wompin' pretty good, are you sure the amp does rated power?

Also, what's your electrical like? What car, what alty? I thought i was having a problem with my L7's being underpowered until i figured out that my 120A alty's only putting out ~90A anymore these days, not to mention my amp apparently needs ~140A alone, and that's with 100% efficiency, so are you sure your electrical can keep up with your needs?

And also, what kind of box is the 15 in? What size, and what tuning if it's ported? A box can make all the difference with an L7, they need lots and lots of space, if it's a prefab, a lot of companies use the exact same enclosures for L7 12's and L7 15's, even tho the 15's need a LOOOT more airspace.

And lasty, make sure you give the L7 20 or so hours to break in, even with my gains cut almost all the way back, i've noticed a considerable increase in output over the last week of daily useage, especially with the low notes.

Hope to hear back, peace.

 
if your subs are dual 4ohms that means that you can run each sub at 2ohms, each coil on the sub in parallel. put one sub per channel and you should be ok.

or run each sub at 8ohms and then wire them in parallel to 4ohms and run the amp bridge at 4ohms.

you do not want to use just one voice coil out of the 2 in your sub. damage can accour.

edit: i thought you where runing two subs. so disregard

 
Oh, and FYI, the only lanzars that do close to rated power are the optidrive series, and the VIBE -D series, eg.; the VIBE 1200D, the A/B "viberant" amps aren't the same thing as the actual VIBE amplifiers.

 
i'm running just one L7..at a series wiring(coil +2&coil -1/coil -2&coil+1),i was really disappointed..my kicker es 15 was much louder than my L7 now..then i tried to put it in parallel wires,at 2ohm,and then i heard what i was expecting to hear! i don't know much bout alty,i'm sorry..i'm the one who buys,but not the one who set on my own..i just reset all the settings and adjusting on my own then..

it's a dual 4, and i've just asked the shop if they could replace it with a dual 2,but they said that kicker here in the philippines have no stock yet..

my box?comes from my past kicker es and it's 6.6cu.ft, but the port was not measured..i was thinking to custom a new box..8cu.ft?and design a good port..

can you help me bout designing it so i can feel the real power of this sub?

can i put this on stereo mode?just on the left,or right?so i can put it on a 2ohms w/o worrying of wasting my money burnig up amplies?

thanx for your help

 
if i parallel the woofer... + to + - to-, then my sub is at 2ohms..my problem is the amplifier..my ampli is only bridgeable at 4ohms..i wonder if i can bridge it at 2ohms..it will harm my ampli?

and my box..does the size of 6.6cu.ft will show me the real power of my sub?

 
yeah..at 8ohms..and i'm so disappointed..i don't wanna take the risk of loosing my ampli..i worked hard for it..even my sub..

i have a 2.4 farad lanzar capacitor..does this help the power supply of my sub?

do i need change my alty to a higher one?

 
What model is the amp? Honestly, your #1 problem may be an overrated amplifier.

I'm not trying to be a downer here, but if the amp really put out even 600rms x 2 with the current wiring, it should be loud as heck in that huge box.

And yes, 6 cubes is actually ideal for that speaker, no need to get bigger, you'll just lose any and all sound quality if you go bigger. I'm assuming it's ported, correct? If it's sealed it's actually too big, but ported should sound great with 1200 real watts going to it.

 
hei!i've put the wirings of the sub parallel..it's loud as hell,but it's still bridge on the ampli..the ampli says that it's only brigdeable at 4ohm..my sub is a dual 4,so when i use series wires,i get 8ohms..and it sucks..at 2ohms, the body of my Suv shake and make a lot of noises caused by frictioning of something,i don't know..

i'm just waiting the ampli to protect,or 2 get faulty..

my ported box(used w/ a keicker es previously)can hold it..the mdf in front vibrate and make noises..so i can't enjoy the break in..

i don't know if i'm smelling the sub burning or the ampli or the mdf..

this morning, i've took a look and tried it again..

w/ the engine on..

my 2.4 farads lanzar capacitor at first was good..the current was always bet. 10.2 and 12.5..suddenly,it dropped at 8..7..6.. and it turned off by itself,turning off my whole system..what that means?

i looked at my alty,and it's only 45~?or 65~..

this is my dad's vehicle,that's why i can't make modifications by myself w/o telling him..

but the system is mine,i brought it..

can you help me again by teaching me bout HTZ,and how to tone a box to the deepest frequencies?thanx

 
"]Setup[/color]

-'05 S15L7 solo baric w/ a modified 6.6cu.ft ported box

-Lanzar HTG264 2 channel 2x600 Watt Mosfet Amp 2400W max

-Pioneer DEH-P4850MPH head unit

-2.4 Farads Lanzar Capacitor

-Lanzar vibe x8 crossover

-Clarion mids..

that's all..i still have my 15" kicker es,can i use it as a midsub?lol

 
I'm not sure what a kicker es is, i wouldn't use a 15 as a midbass driver, tho, no.

Your capacitor died because your electrical system can't keep up with your amplifier. You drained the power out of the cap before your alternator could recharge it, now you're drawing power out of your battery, and once that's done, who knows.

Isn't there someone local you can go talk to? Someone who actually knows what they're doing? For reference, whoever installed all of that gear into your trunk, or sold it to you, or talked you into it in the first place, without checking your electrical system, or the wiring of the subs, does NOT know what they're doing, don't ever talk to them again, but you've got a series of problems going on with your gear.

You need to get everything checked out before your dad's alternator dies, it sounds like you've got an extreme undercurrent problem, and it's only going to get worse.

 
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renier

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