SPL with a single 8" Sub... More sound with less.

well talk to me more i can do more with the sub. i would be willing to take the sub in and build it to handle more mechy power along more throw.

now send the sub in i will build and send back out no charge until after you play it. then if ur happy send me another $90.

hows that for caring about my customers. all my customers i take care of!!!
I have never associated with you before, but you seem to be an honest person that will go above and beyond what one would expect. Desipte problems in the past buying used items I would buy from you in a heartbeat.

 
So what your telling me is that a custom 8" sub on whatever power im giving it (because truthfully I dont know down to the tee what its getting exactly) should be quieter than a CVL on 450 watts before it reaches its mechanical limit... Because it certainly has never been louder.
Im concerned with your ability to read/comprehend.

Now unless im missing something when you double the power with the same cone area, you should typically see a slight increase in SPL, not a large decrease.

And you have no need to worry about my equipment. Its working 100% and I have not until this sub blown an amp or a sub in my 23 different installs for myself or many others for my friends. And no, I didnt use a DMM on those setups either...
If your not setting your equipment with a dmm or oscope YOU are aking for trouble.

 
i have gone above and beyond to build you the sub you want now, cant do any more.

i have had less than 2% failure rate on my builds. 1 with spider broke the landing played below tunning with 4k of power and a couple other with burnt leads from clipping i still fix //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

last month had ups break a zv2 12" and not cover it, i shipped customer a new 2 days later.

customer service is where it at!

 
i have gone above and beyond to build you the sub you want now, cant do any more.
i have had less than 2% failure rate on my builds. 1 with spider broke the landing played below tunning with 4k of power and a couple other with burnt leads from clipping i still fix //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

last month had ups break a zv2 12" and not cover it, i shipped customer a new 2 days later.

customer service is where it at!
i bet i know who did that...

 
i'm not nuthugging, my point is if ur gonna bash a product at least make sure your install is not possibly the blame. i would do this to anyone regarding any product. Why? because i hate to see ignorance in car audio. you know you should set gains properly, yet clearly choose not to. Now that you are having an issue instead of making sure YOU didn't do something wrong you decide to blindly blame the product. That's childish. If such blunt speech is convicting (i.e. inciting strong emotion and response) maybe its because you know you have some things to try to make sure your install isn't the error but are too proud to admit it to yourself. If that's where u are, so be it. Good luck to you. But I feel bad for your equipment. I'll say it again, bad practice leads to damaged equipment. Happy bassin
Look man, i have spent the last 2 weeks doing everything possible (in my freedom outside of work)and narrowing out every possible thing wrong with my setup. First off, what place are you in to say its not the sub. I literally pull out a sub and drop in the new one and I get mechy noise. You are nuthugging because you dont know who I am, what i have actually done, you know nothing about my setup, and yet your consistently set on the fact that I did something wrong. And if SPLaudio is such a good guy then why isnt the sub he built me fixed?

Also, they havent always used oscopes to set gain and a dmm is just a shortcut that doesnt really work imo. Clearly your just trying to put all the blame on me and the almighty splaudio has no fault. Whatever man, arguing with you is a dead end. SPLaudio has yet to pm me on the matter so clearly he dont care at all anyways. And now people that have had good experiences are chiming in, which is cool, but at the same time it doesnt change the fact that I did not. Ill be starting a thread over the matter in the next 24 hours if spl audio doesnt come up with a solution...

 
U can say whatever u want about me but here are the facts:

U asked for a sub to be made to handle ~800wrms

Splaudio made u a sub

U did not set gains on the sub amp so have no idea the power going to the sub

The sub amp is capable of ~2700wrms @1ohm and the sub was only built to handle 800wrms.

The original box wass too big

The sub is close to a back wall.

No matter who u are or who made the sub, the installer shares in blame. I never said it couldn't be the sub, I simply asked how can u ignore ll the facts and just say "oh the sub must be the issue." At least rule out the flaws in the install first

 
Lastly, im not one to blame another person either. Trust me I checked out every possible thing that could cause this, built 2 different boxes, installed the sub in 3 different boxes, installed each one of my 20.1's, tested free air at 4 ohms. The only reason I originally got upset is because when I notified splaudio of the issue, he instantly said I somehow damaged the spider. We already established that the sub he built and the sub he said he was building are two different subs. Not to mention he failed to notify me of a high excursion 8" option when I thought that was what he was building. I was told the sub would handle 1000rms, and now im being told the sub will only handle 800rms, the coil was never at anytime heating up which means that I wasnt clipping the sub, nor was i giving it too much power. And the customer support I received was blame on my install. Not to mention he didnt test the sub at his own rms rating (400rms) underneath what he stated to me.

 
U can say whatever u want about me but here are the facts:
U asked for a sub to be made to handle ~800wrms (1000 rms was what I was told was the coils limit, and by the way he worded the pm it sounded like itd take more mechanically, and how the heck would you know? do all the pm's he send go to you as well?)

Splaudio made u a sub(that has mechanical noise)

U did not set gains on the sub amp so have no idea the power going to the sub

The sub amp is capable of ~2700wrms @1ohm and the sub was only built to handle 800wrms. (This goes to show what you know if you think that this amp will realistically do that power at 1 ohm nominal esp. without a 2nd battery and remember the sub was built for 1000rms and there is much more on the volume before clipping, I guarantee you that)

The original box wass too big(the second box was too big, the first one was .82 net and I was noticing noise so I put it in a daily box to see if it was because of the 4" aero)

The sub is close to a back wall.(so is the cvl and that sub doesnt bottom out and its louder than the other sub)

No matter who u are or who made the sub, the installer shares in blame. I never said it couldn't be the sub, I simply asked how can u ignore ll the facts and just say "oh the sub must be the issue." At least rule out the flaws in the install first
But just to please you I have the day off work tomorrow, I will go outside with my dmm, and check what power its doing before rise at 1 ohm at volume 22 just to please you. And if for some reason it is seeing 1000+rms and its just reaching its mechy limits than the subs efficiency must be around 50db 1w/1m because that would mean its quieter than a cvl on less than half the power. I think i have been more than reasonable doing all these things to see if its my fault before even mentioning the possibility that splaudio's sub is defective.

 
That's all id say u need to do to cover your bases. By no means do I think splaudio is perfect nor any builder or company. It just frustrates me to see people to take the time to make sure all bases are covered before pointing the finger. And u mayfeel I'm being hard on u but its only because I want u and others to be the best audio practitioners u can be. I don't want u bein like a lot of these clowns on the forum that act like they know everything but but don't know squat. I'm constantly learning and trying to practice sound methods. I hope u do as well. Keep the faith brah

 
Anyone experimenting with 8" subs these days? I have a single 8" CVL-8 (older version) on my IA 20.1 at 4 ohms. The truck its in is a Regular Cab Ranger. My latest score is a 135.4db on a termlab and im looking for more. Right now im doing sub up, port to the drivers side. 4" PVC port with 3/4" rounds on each end (poor mans aero //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif) and the box is .8 cubes before sub displacement. My peak is at 46hz. Anyone have any tips or pointers?
PS: I know 450rms is pretty low power also, but the custom 8" im having built will allow me to run my 20.1 at 1ohm so this should give me a nice increase as well.
im getting ready to put 2 first gen dd 1508s on a us amps 100hc built on a 2000x chasis in my Saleen for a little daily bump....the box was finished yesterday

 
im getting ready to put 2 first gen dd 1508s on a us amps 100hc built on a 2000x chasis in my Saleen for a little daily bump....the box was finished yesterday
That should be impressive. Im installing the Termlab software on my Laptop as we speak.

 
why pm i openly offered to build a high excursion 8 and send to you and if you were totally happy send $90 after you get it. which now you said you werent concered about the cost.

told you the coil would handle 1k thermally no problem but the 12 spoke is mechy limited but will handle the 800rms you desired.

you wanted a 800rms 8" sub not a 1000 or 1200rms 8" which can be built just a different way with different basket and differnt spiders. i am running a 8 now off a rubi 1600.1 and full tilt.

someone comes to me says they want 800rms im not gonna try and sell them a bigger more expencive sub im not a salesman,lol.

and as i stated here i tested the sub at 600rms freeair (not 400) and this moves a sub way more than 800rms in a enclosure as i ALREADY explained.

 
I think your getting me mixed up with someone else. I never asked for a 800wrms sub. I told you I needed it to handle as much power as possible and that it was going to be for bassrace. Do you think if im trying to bassrace a 139.9 with a 8 that I only wanted it to handle 800rms??? NO. All im asking is for the sub to handle what I had asked for. And if you can make that happen then I will be happy. And please for gods sake, stop putting words in my mouth.

 
Well the custom sub im having built is an RD sonance and its a 2.5" coil. The coil should take 1000 rms according to corey. Ive already played around with boxes so far. First one was with a T.200 8" and I did .75 tuned to 35hz and it sounded pretty good, then I put the CVL-8 in there and it did a 133.3, then I built a new box and it jumped me up to a 135.4 on ~450rms. I wish the coil wasnt a single 4 otherwise ik in this box the sub will take more like 700+ but im running out of power at 4 ohms.
In the process of building a smaller box with a bigger port //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif. This sub is unloading extremely quickly but I did not mention that im throwing almost 2/3's of the power from a 20.1 at 1 ohm. Which is approximately what SPLaudio had rated it at (roughly 1000rms). This sub should wang with a few tricks. Ill keep you guys posted!
2/3 of 1800wrms is 1200wrms so even if the sub only put out rated (and ur gains were set as you claimed up there) ur giving more than the coil was said to handle not to mention the mech limits of the 12spoke basket. now 2/3 of 2700wrms (power the amp has been clamped to do) is 1800wrms and that's again assuming it is truly 2/3 of rms power (and if u just have the gain set to 2/3 the way up who knows what ur giving). so regardless you gave the sub more than the coil could handle not to mention the mech limits of the basket. that's just by what u said.

 
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