SPL heavy-hitters and recognized box designers, come hither please

[tommyk90 5,000+ posts]

I wouldnt tune that low....youll get tired of it when some lil 2 10 box comes along and beats u and still plays music.....id prolly go with 40hz....be a really good mix between daily and good numbers
Unless you only play chopped and screwed music, its pretty much pointless

Thread rods or strips of mdf in the middle of baffle screwed to the sides also...seem to be best and less ugly

No internal bracing is the best if you can avoid using it. The less turbulence, the better.

If it is ABSOLUTELY necessary, then I recommend threaded rod over strips of MDF or wooden dowels. The strenth is much greater than wooden dowels and it won't cause as much turbulence as MDF strips inside the box.

But if you can avoid using any bracing that would be your best bet for high SPL numbers. In fact, some vehicles actually GAIN when the box is unbraced/flexing. That's another thing to consider.

When I build a new SPL box, this is usually what I do. I start off with an absolutely plain box. No angles, no resin, no braces, nothing. Then little by little I add things, testing every step of the way to see what helps and what hurts. That's the only way to officially know what works and what doesn't.

To the OP, where is your box currently located and do you intend on keeping it there?

Subs up, port back is PROBABLY your best option seeing as it's pretty much the "standard" box used in everything besides trunk cars.

 

[pioneerpimp 5,000+ posts]

its sub up port back. 15 cubes after all displacements tuned to 35 hertz. right now its located outside of my house

i kicked it out of the van yesterday

 

[pioneerpimp 5,000+ posts]

also, how do you go about mounting aeroports

 

[tommyk90 5,000+ posts]

its sub up port back. 15 cubes after all displacements tuned to 35 hertz. right now its located outside of my housei kicked it out of the van yesterday

What I meant by that is where is the box when its IN the van? Are all the seats in it? Is the box against the rear door? Etc. and so forth. The actual placement of the box can affect the score as much as the box itself.

also, how do you go about mounting aeroports

Aeroports have a mounting flange. You cut out a hole and mount them on the box with screws.

 

[ContourSPL 10+ year member]

How much power are you running to the MT's? Sorry if it was in the first post and I missed it. If you are running a hefty amount of power to them, you can try shrinking the box down and keep the tuning.

I've heard of some people gaining a few when they flush mount the subs. Good luck.

 

[pioneerpimp 5,000+ posts]

im putting 2.5k before rise to each sub, or i was, but now 3.5 to each sub. and 6k for comps for burps. the box was about a foot away from the back hatch with port facing back hatch.

 

[pioneerpimp 5,000+ posts]

no seats except front in also

 

[60ndown 10+ year member]

thanks tap-out. ok, well aside from tommyk's posts, does anyone else have any useful or valuable information they would like to talk about?

competeing is crazy, why risk all your equipment and hard work to beat someone by 2 dbs? just install a nice daily system and enjoy //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/veryhappy.gif.fec4fed33b4a1279cf10bdd45a039dae.gif

 

[60ndown 10+ year member]

no seats except front in also

subs fireing back for best results, flip dat box.

 

[pioneerpimp 5,000+ posts]

i cant flip it

the backside wud hit the roof

 

[Skip01 5,000+ posts]

No internal bracing is the best if you can avoid using it. The less turbulence, the better.
If it is ABSOLUTELY necessary, then I recommend threaded rod over strips of MDF or wooden dowels. The strenth is much greater than wooden dowels and it won't cause as much turbulence as MDF strips inside the box.

But if you can avoid using any bracing that would be your best bet for high SPL numbers. In fact, some vehicles actually GAIN when the box is unbraced/flexing. That's another thing to consider.

I can only go off me and my next door neighbors results were.....and he gained 2 WHOLE dbs from putting in a brace along the sub mount baffle and screwing it to the sides as well

This box here.....maybe in bigger boxes that works dont know....never heard of boxes flexxing to increase output

 

[teamsubgopoof]

Ok so I'm kind of confused as to what you are after. Do you want to get loud...as in you are planing to compete in a sanctioned organization? Or do you just want to be loud as in daily impress people in your area loud?
As for some of your questions.

Bracing-I have found threaded rod works the best for High Power applications. It is easy to use and is plety strong. The only down side is its appearance but if you are in it to compete this shouldn't be a concern of yours.

FG Resin-This depends on many things. It definatly will not make an audible difference unless the consruction of your box is VERY poor and the FG is actually acting as a sealant. Termlab would be the only way to determine whether or not it makes a difference. I personally wouldn't resin your first box. And if you want to build a second and see if it makes a difference. FG Resin may also hurt your score.

45s in the corners-Just like FG resin. Can help, it also can hurt.

Box Design-I have always had luck with common chamber boxes...anytime you start spliting up woofers and adding mulitple ports on different planes of the box or different ends of a plane things usually dont work right. Basically the way Ive always constructed boxes was to try and channel the pressure inside the box efficiently towards the port. In doing this you want to try and minimalize areas in the box where pressure can be trapped and cause awkward loading on the rear side of the cone of the woofer. This can cause dustcaps to fly off cones to shatter and other things that aren't so pleasent.

As for ductape and gaskets- The ductape is to try and get a better seal between the driver and the baffle. And some use it because they are supersticious. But it has proven to help. I gained about a tenth when I was running a single 12" but the dual 10" setup didn't gain from duct tape.

As for your vehicle...im not sure haven't used one so I will leave this for someone better versed in a Dodge Caravan.

Not sure who told you this...but this isn't always the best way to go...that kind of sounds like a generalized statement. Personally (im not sure which size drivers you are using) but I would try sub up/port back with 6" aeros first...because they are in fact the easiest way to start with spl box design, because you can cut and add port until you find the loudest combination.

i told him that //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[teamsubgopoof]

I can only go off me and my next door neighbors results were.....and he gained 2 WHOLE dbs from putting in a brace along the sub mount baffle and screwing it to the sides as well

This box here.....maybe in bigger boxes that works dont know....never heard of boxes flexxing to increase output

flexing doesn't always increase OUTPUT persay...but it could increase SPL //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[pioneerpimp 5,000+ posts]

haha. there he is. i like the look of that box also. what 12s are those?

 

[matrxx dude 5,000+ posts]

there 10's re sx's