SPL heavy-hitters and recognized box designers, come hither please

[pioneerpimp 5,000+ posts]

i need some information, tips, instructions, etc. due to cancellation issues, i am rebuilding a box for my MTs, as well as getting a much larger amplification unit. i have a few question:

along with double baffling, with kind of other supports work best. i have heard tie rod threading is a good choice. i had triple baffle on my last box, but i think it was a little unnecessary and added alot of weight.

I also have a 1990 dodge grand caravan. what is the best way to fire into these. sub up port back? sub back port back? sub up, port up? sub and port towards front of vehicle? sub back, port firing towards front? who has had some good numbers in any of these positions.

also, how much does fiberglass resign help, and if im going to do it, should i do whole box or jus corners?

45 degree corners, help at all or not?

wud a port per woofer, in almost separate chambers be better than one big box with one port, for less cancellation, it it becomes a problem?

I am looking to tune at 30 hertz.

Also, I am running MTs, who has had the best numbers at lower 30's freqs, and it what amount of cubic feet boxes were these MTs in. ive seen so many different sizes, looking to do research for volume now.

Also, slot port to Aero ports, differences in both, and which one is better for higher numbers?

also, rounded port corners everyone always suggests. I have been doing this on my last 7 boxes, but never really understood why except for better air flow, any other reasons?

which is the best tightening solution when it comes to wood glue, i use liquid nails but am looking for something different, that may hold better.

also, i see SPL competitors dont use rubber gaskets around their subs, and some even go to the length of duct tape, im guessing to hold in air, anymore explanations. why dont some people use rubber gaskets?

Next, which way is the best way to lay out subs in a box, although this may go hand in hand in positioning of subs.

i was told by a knowledgeable competitor, to do a box, with a port across the bottom of the whole box, so no cancellation occurs as long as subs are side by side. im thinking bout this heavily, any other way to do it? is there any other way to manipulate air movement.

these are just a couple of things I would like to discuss with some people, get a little bit of help on some things, please do not call me a noob or make fun of me or thread dump if you do not like all my questions, then u dont have to answer them. please save all smart *** responses to yourself also. would just like this to be an informative discussion to help me and other people when theyre building boxes.

Thanks and I appreciate all the help I can get if any. I know its a lot of questions.

anymore questions i can think of I will post. thanks again

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[Chevyaudio 5,000+ posts]

Ok so I'm kind of confused as to what you are after. Do you want to get loud...as in you are planing to compete in a sanctioned organization? Or do you just want to be loud as in daily impress people in your area loud?

As for some of your questions.

Bracing-I have found threaded rod works the best for High Power applications. It is easy to use and is plety strong. The only down side is its appearance but if you are in it to compete this shouldn't be a concern of yours.

FG Resin-This depends on many things. It definatly will not make an audible difference unless the consruction of your box is VERY poor and the FG is actually acting as a sealant. Termlab would be the only way to determine whether or not it makes a difference. I personally wouldn't resin your first box. And if you want to build a second and see if it makes a difference. FG Resin may also hurt your score.

45s in the corners-Just like FG resin. Can help, it also can hurt.

Box Design-I have always had luck with common chamber boxes...anytime you start spliting up woofers and adding mulitple ports on different planes of the box or different ends of a plane things usually dont work right. Basically the way Ive always constructed boxes was to try and channel the pressure inside the box efficiently towards the port. In doing this you want to try and minimalize areas in the box where pressure can be trapped and cause awkward loading on the rear side of the cone of the woofer. This can cause dustcaps to fly off cones to shatter and other things that aren't so pleasent.

As for ductape and gaskets- The ductape is to try and get a better seal between the driver and the baffle. And some use it because they are supersticious. But it has proven to help. I gained about a tenth when I was running a single 12" but the dual 10" setup didn't gain from duct tape.

As for your vehicle...im not sure haven't used one so I will leave this for someone better versed in a Dodge Caravan.

i was told by a knowledgeable competitor, to do a box, with a port across the bottom of the whole box, so no cancellation occurs as long as subs are side by side. im thinking bout this heavily, any other way to do it? is there any other way to manipulate air movement

Not sure who told you this...but this isn't always the best way to go...that kind of sounds like a generalized statement. Personally (im not sure which size drivers you are using) but I would try sub up/port back with 6" aeros first...because they are in fact the easiest way to start with spl box design, because you can cut and add port until you find the loudest combination.

 

[stuckinok 5,000+ posts]

The only questions I have since chevy pretty much sumed it up is if your going for SPL why are you tunning so low? also nobody in this forum on in this world can answer your questions. Most of the things you are asking can only be answered through your own testing and tunning its just going to take alot of building and time on your part but just to add my two cents i think port bracing is important in many cases along with double baffles

 

[Chevyaudio 5,000+ posts]

The only questions I have since chevy pretty much sumed it up is if your going for SPL why are you tunning so low? also nobody in this forum on in this world can answer your questions. Most of the things you are asking can only be answered through your own testing and tunning its just going to take alot of building and time on your part but just to add my two cents i think port bracing is important in many cases along with double baffles

Hence the first question I asked //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[pioneerpimp 5,000+ posts]

im going for high decibels at a low frequency, why 30 is the chosen frequency. im going to be competing in a sanctioned organization but i do not know which class yet. and the comptetitor who told me was justin thornton (Teamsubgopoof). he didnt say its the best, but just a good way to do it, and i dont like splitting up the chambers and doing all that too. so 45s, and Fiberglass are most likely out of the picture then, if they do not do a whole lot. and thread rodding does seem to be the best, according to a lot of people. im going for high numbers at lower frequencies. i usually dont like alot of notes above the 45-50 hz range for tuning.

 

[pioneerpimp 5,000+ posts]

so people also do not use gaskets, as it is a better seal not to use them? i have 2 18" MTs right now, but am looking at two more

 

[pioneerpimp 5,000+ posts]

this is also a daily vehicle, non walled mini van.

 

[pioneerpimp 5,000+ posts]

i know testing would also help alot of this, but i know some people can throw in some of their opinions. nothing has to be fact.

 

[tommyk90 5,000+ posts]

The only way to know what will be best for your vehicle would be to build and test.

/thread.

Just because one thing works for somebody else doesn't mean it will work for you, even if its the same vehicle. If there was one "best" way, then everybody would be doing it that way. Unfortuantely there isn't.

Any opinions that are given are just that, opinions. What they are telling you could be the exact opposite of what you need to do. Also, what org. are you going to compete in that you are willing to sacrifice high SPL numbers just so you can lower the tuning?

 

[pioneerpimp 5,000+ posts]

thats a good question. i just dont want to sacrafice daily listening to compete with a higher tuning. i would just like opinion. maybe box building is different, but people can give ideas on how to build boxes for better movement of air, or which glue has worked better for them. just looking for opinions, yea thats all they are, but i like knowing peoples opinions.

 

[tapout 5,000+ posts]

I prefer tite-bond ii over LN.

 

[tommyk90 5,000+ posts]

thats a good question. i just dont want to sacrafice daily listening to compete with a higher tuning. i would just like opinion. maybe box building is different, but people can give ideas on how to build boxes for better movement of air, or which glue has worked better for them. just looking for opinions, yea thats all they are, but i like knowing peoples opinions.

Honestly, all you really have to do is search. There have been countless topics about this.

 

[pioneerpimp 5,000+ posts]

thanks tap-out. ok, well aside from tommyk's posts, does anyone else have any useful or valuable information they would like to talk about?

 

[Skip01 5,000+ posts]

I wouldnt tune that low....youll get tired of it when some lil 2 10 box comes along and beats u and still plays music.....id prolly go with 40hz....be a really good mix between daily and good numbers

Unless you only play chopped and screwed music, its pretty much pointless

Thread rods or strips of mdf in the middle of baffle screwed to the sides also...seem to be best and less ugly

 

[15nissen 10+ year member]

Use aero ports. Tune to whatever you want, whenever.

Merry Christmas