Skar Audio RP2000.1… blown amp?

[Zpop]

Hello,

Recently had a shop upgrade my amp from a RP1200 to a RP2000 (including the 0 gauge wiring for power/ground). Have been bumping for about a week with this setup, and out of nowhere the amp has completely shut off on my commute home today. I haven’t even been pushing this amp and my sub to the limit, if anything I would have the bass knob cranked on lower volume and occasionally up the volume.

Today however, there was a slight smell from the amp and all of a sudden the amp was making a crackling noise and completely shut off. After some visual inspection I didn’t see anything wrong with it, I tried turning the car back on after checking the fuse in the engine bay and the amp doesn’t even turn on into protect mode.

What can I do here and how should I start? I’ll be scheduling an appointment with the shop I had it installed with but if there’s a easy fix I could do then I’m all ears…
Let me know, TIA.

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[Zpop]

In addition, the amp has a protect and power on light. Neither lit back up even after turning the car back on.

 

[1aespinoza Premium Member]

In addition, the amp has a protect and power on light. Neither lit back up even after turning the car back on.

If you have a multimeter, check the power and ground wires. It should be ~11-12.6 volts. If you do have voltage, turn on the system and check the remote turn on wire, 12-14.4 volts range.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Do you have a Warranty on the Install? You should have a warranty on the amp from the shop. Take it back there so you dont VOID any warranties

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Sounds like the amp got too hot and burnt up/fried to me.. You may need more power / bigger amp, or a better sub stage that you are expecting too much out of what you have

 

[Zpop]

Shop was able to confirm the amp itself had an internal component that likely went out so I’ll be sending it back to Skar ASAP for a replacement. The installer himself said it’s one of the most common amps he’s seeing get returned, something about the RP2000 and the way they run they continue to crap out on people.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Shop was able to confirm the amp itself had an internal component that likely went out so I’ll be sending it back to Skar ASAP for a replacement. The installer himself said it’s one of the most common amps he’s seeing get returned, something about the RP2000 and the way they run they continue to crap out on people.

Id keep with the warranty return. Id look at getting a different more reliable amp, and maybe Sale the Skar.. Thats me though. Seems like a PITA if an amplifier isnt doing its job other than taking a dive and costing time and even possibly money if it ends up ruining your subs in the process of taking that Dive once again.

 

[Tdjones2803]

If you have a multimeter, check the power and ground wires. It should be ~11-12.6 volts. If you do have voltage, turn on the system and check the remote turn on wire, 12-14.4 volts range.

What's the problem/fix if I'm getting less then 4 volts when testing remote wire? And for background it all worked for a couple months and then stopped. Not sure if amp is done but since getting lower reading then what you had mentioned thought I'd ask about it before going further. Also no light on power or protect comes on now. Thanks

 

[mahc 10+ year member]

What's the problem/fix if I'm getting less then 4 volts when testing remote wire? And for background it all worked for a couple months and then stopped. Not sure if amp is done but since getting lower reading then what you had mentioned thought I'd ask about it before going further. Also no light on power or protect comes on now. Thanks

Run a wire directly from the battery to the remote input of you amp and see what happens.

 

[1aespinoza Premium Member]

Also no light on power or protect comes on now. Thanks

Disconnect the Positive and Remote from the amp and measure the voltage at each one. Also inspect the Fuse by the battery and the Grounding point. What gauge wire are you using on the amp?

 

[Tdjones2803]

Run a wire directly from the battery to the remote input of you amp and see what happens.

Thanks, I actually just got done running a small wire from the positive wire input to the remote input and it all works like it should, except always on now. So was thinking of just putting an inline disconnect in my main power wire so I can manually kill the power to amp.

 

[Tdjones2803]

Disconnect the Positive and Remote from the amp and measure the voltage at each one. Also inspect the Fuse by the battery and the Grounding point. What gauge wire are you using on the amp?

0 gauge wire is what I'm running. I put a small wire from positive to remote on amp and everything works, of course always has power now so thought about an in line discount on my main positive wire to just manually kill power to amp when not using

 

[mahc 10+ year member]

Thanks, I actually just got done running a small wire from the positive wire input to the remote input and it all works like it should, except always on now. So was thinking of just putting an inline disconnect in my main power wire so I can manually kill the power to amp.

It was a way to find the issue but yes, adding a switch to it is a option. Glad your amp is fine!