silly wall?

mcbuggin
10+ year member

CarAudio.com Elite
I am going to try to build a wall and am haveing a hard time figureing out the best way to atach the pannels since I'll be building it in the car completely. So what I have come up with is weld a cage in the car to use as a frame of sorts then pocket cut the pannels to screw them together and use silicone and self tapping screws to attach the wood to the metal frame does this sound like the best route or is there a better option? thanks for the help and i'll check back for input on mon.

 
Sounds like a good way to go about it, a metal frame will give you all the bracing you need as well.

I would use a polyuerethane sealent instead of silicone. If you have the money for it, pick up some NP1 caulking, kinda hard to find but it is the most incredible sealent/adhesive that I have ever used.

An easier option would be to put a 2x2 in each joint and screw through that and into the MDF to join the two panels. You would need to come up with another form of bracing though.

 
I am going to try to build a wall and am haveing a hard time figureing out the best way to atach the pannels since I'll be building it in the car completely. So what I have come up with is weld a cage in the car to use as a frame of sorts then pocket cut the pannels to screw them together and use silicone and self tapping screws to attach the wood to the metal frame does this sound like the best route or is there a better option? thanks for the help and i'll check back for input on mon.
it is going to be hard as hell, i am doing a simialr project right now. Good luck though:)

 
Sounds like a good way to go about it, a metal frame will give you all the bracing you need as well.
I would use a polyuerethane sealent instead of silicone. If you have the money for it, pick up some NP1 caulking, kinda hard to find but it is the most incredible sealent/adhesive that I have ever used.

An easier option would be to put a 2x2 in each joint and screw through that and into the MDF to join the two panels. You would need to come up with another form of bracing though.
I like the idea of keeping the inside open and free of restricktions but have thought of 2x2's and allthread just thought that the frame would brace it better even if I used 1x1 square aluminum tubeing and yes we can weld it and titainium:D

 
my wall is just bolted to the floor, front and rear of the box, with 7 huge 1/2" x 3.5" bolts and washers, etc.

its not moving.

first i put the 2x4 on the front to level it with where the box would sit on that back piece (dont mind the ghetto cuts i made on the metal lol)

just so happened that to get it level with that back metal piece, it took a piece of 3/4" birch, and a 2x4, and that leveled it perfectly.

bolted it in.

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then i put in the actual floor for the box to sit on. i cut out the holes in the floor so it would sit flush over those 3 bolts in the 2x4, and i bolted it down in the rear.

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then i put one more layer, covering right over the front bolts, and cutting holes for the last layer to flush mount the rear 4 bolts, so the box has a 100% smooth surface to sit on.

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from there, i built the box (the box had a floor as well, so overall, the total bottom of the whole thing is 3 layers thick of 3/4" birch)

the box itself overhangs that false floor as well, by about 3" up front, and 3" in the back.

 
well thanks for the tips. this is going into a 88civic HB and secureing it to the floor is easy to figureout along with the baffle and the back its the sides and the top i'm haveing a hard time with

 
the sides arent that hard

dont secure the box to the floor, until you have the sides put on

you might have to 2 piece the bottom piece like i did in mine, it turned out just fine

if you do weld, the silicone, or even caulk is a great idea to stop squeaking, that sometimes happens when the wood moves slightly against the metal.

 
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mcbuggin

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