Anthony Collova
10+ year member
CarAudio.com Elite
We are getting ready to release our newest product.
A DIY rust galvonizing coating
Many people have heard of some of the popular rust treatment paints:
Por-15
Rust Bullet
Rust Encapsulator
Well, we are doing something a little bit different.
Our product treats rust in a similar way to these other products; by penetrating deep in to the pores of the rust and galvanizing the corrosion from the inside out protecting the formation of new rust by mechanical and chemical means.
Awesome stuff and fun to work with.
Afrer using these products over the years on our own projects, we kept seeing hte same flaws inherent in each of them:
1. They have to be applied to rust or corrosion in order to work. In fact, if you apply them to regular, clean metal that is not rusty, they will not adhere. They require rust to work. instead the bead up and tend not to stick. Some of these companies actually sell a zinc etching acid that promotes and accelerates the formation of rust so that you can apply it to clean metal successfully. More money down the drain!
The product we have developed not only galvanizes galvanizes the rust, but will also adhere to regular clean, pained, primed raw or powder coated metal right from the start. No need to sand, or etch the metal. No need to use an acid to create a rusty surface for the Rust Dust to grab on to.
2. Another problem with the other rust formulations is that they tend to dry out kind of fast. A pint of Por15 might dry up in 6 months or so, forcing you to purchase more material when you have another project to work on. I noticed this myself about probably 4 times over the last 2 years. I'd go for the rust converter and al that would be left is a skinned over shell in the can. Useless. More wasted money!
Our product on the other hand is going to ship dry.
It will come in a powdered form in a can, and will last 15 years on the shelf without issue.
All you do is mix in equal amounts of MEK and Acetone, with the powder we provide and the material immediately activates.
Use only what you want, and save the rest of the powder for some other time!
So far the testing looks awesome!
I need some opinions from you guys before we move forward with this project on a large scale. I need some input from guys that work on their own vehicles and are used to DIY projects.
So, would you rather have the material sent to you wet, or dry.
There are a number of ways we can do it:
1. Sent dry with no liquid - you go to Ace and pick up your own solvents
2. Sent dry with Liquids - You mix in the appropriate amount for your job
3. Sent wet - Just shake the can for a minute or 2 and apply.
4. Bacon
I can see how option #3 is the easiest way to go, but it takes out the ability to store the product for any great length of time.
Thoughts?
A DIY rust galvonizing coating
Many people have heard of some of the popular rust treatment paints:
Por-15
Rust Bullet
Rust Encapsulator
Well, we are doing something a little bit different.
Our product treats rust in a similar way to these other products; by penetrating deep in to the pores of the rust and galvanizing the corrosion from the inside out protecting the formation of new rust by mechanical and chemical means.
Awesome stuff and fun to work with.
Afrer using these products over the years on our own projects, we kept seeing hte same flaws inherent in each of them:
1. They have to be applied to rust or corrosion in order to work. In fact, if you apply them to regular, clean metal that is not rusty, they will not adhere. They require rust to work. instead the bead up and tend not to stick. Some of these companies actually sell a zinc etching acid that promotes and accelerates the formation of rust so that you can apply it to clean metal successfully. More money down the drain!
The product we have developed not only galvanizes galvanizes the rust, but will also adhere to regular clean, pained, primed raw or powder coated metal right from the start. No need to sand, or etch the metal. No need to use an acid to create a rusty surface for the Rust Dust to grab on to.
2. Another problem with the other rust formulations is that they tend to dry out kind of fast. A pint of Por15 might dry up in 6 months or so, forcing you to purchase more material when you have another project to work on. I noticed this myself about probably 4 times over the last 2 years. I'd go for the rust converter and al that would be left is a skinned over shell in the can. Useless. More wasted money!
Our product on the other hand is going to ship dry.
It will come in a powdered form in a can, and will last 15 years on the shelf without issue.
All you do is mix in equal amounts of MEK and Acetone, with the powder we provide and the material immediately activates.
Use only what you want, and save the rest of the powder for some other time!
So far the testing looks awesome!
I need some opinions from you guys before we move forward with this project on a large scale. I need some input from guys that work on their own vehicles and are used to DIY projects.
So, would you rather have the material sent to you wet, or dry.
There are a number of ways we can do it:
1. Sent dry with no liquid - you go to Ace and pick up your own solvents
2. Sent dry with Liquids - You mix in the appropriate amount for your job
3. Sent wet - Just shake the can for a minute or 2 and apply.
4. Bacon
I can see how option #3 is the easiest way to go, but it takes out the ability to store the product for any great length of time.
Thoughts?