running at 2 ohms?

If the speakers are 4 ohms, then that's what you have. There's no way to change that, other than carving your cone, removing the voice, then removing half the wire around the voice coil, the gluing it all back together.

In other words, there's no realistic way to do it.

 
If we're talking about a single speaker per output channel on the amplifier the only way to run at 2 Ohms is to purchase a set of 2 Ohm speakers.

Many of Infinity's current Kappa-series drivers are 2 Ohm speakers if memory serves.

And as far as running different resistance loads on different amp channels - it's not any big deal. So long as no single channel drops below where the amp is designed to safely operate you're golden. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
but what if you get two sets of the same 4ohm components and bridge them to get 2ohms

i wonder the same thing because i have a kicker 600.4 which i can get more power out of if i go 2 ohms otherwise i only get 75rms

 
but what if you get two sets of the same 4ohm components and bridge them to get 2ohms
i wonder the same thing because i have a kicker 600.4 which i can get more power out of if i go 2 ohms otherwise i only get 75rms
A) What you're talking about isn't "bridging."

Bridging involved taking two amplifier channels and combining them into a single (bridged) more powerful output channel. What you're speaking of is wiring two sets of speakers in parallel to halve the resistance load presented to the amplfier

B) The issues with doing that are two-fold. If the two sets of components in question are both mounted in the front then you'll have one heckuva time getting the imaging right. If they are to be mounted front and rear instead then if you're running them off of the same set of amp channels then you have effectively eliminated your fadar function.

C) You're spending more money with that method to achieve the same outcome.

Attach one set of 4 Ohm components to two amp channels (one left and one right, obviously) and that component set will see 75w per side. Attach two 4 Ohm components sets to the same two amp channels and the 600.4 raises its output to 150wpc....which will in turn be divided in half split between the two sets of components and they're still only seeing 75w per. Not the most expedient way to get that potential 150wpc, eh??

 
its been a while since my car audio days...i got the terms mixed up....so yes i am definately not talking about bridging....

well the reason i say two sets is because.....there arent too many 2ohm sets that i have been able to find that can even handle 150wpc

but i havent looked THAT hard yet.....my install is still a few months from now....

anyways.....thanks for the answer though....it did clear up some questions i had

 
You could look at Image Dynamics comp sets. They come in 2 ohms versions.

With properly set gains, the crossover setting is really more important than the rated power handling of the speakers. Don't worry about the speakers being rated the same as the amp. The amp will never send that amount of power to the speakers with music for anything resembling continuous, which is what the rating represents. The speakers can typically handle a much more powerful amp as long as the high pass filter is set high enough to keep the speaker from bottoming out.

 
You would have to buy two sets of components to achieve the 2 ohms that you want.You would have to run two sets of components (4 ohms) for each front channel.They would have to be run parallel.That would be 2 tweeters and 2 midbass for the left front channel,2 tweeters and 2 midbass(run parallel)for the right front channel.I suppose if you have enough space to mount all of that,then go for it.The kicker and the Image Dynamics woul be so much easier than what I have suggested.In order to get my amp to see 2 ohms,I had to add 1 extra type 'R' co-ax to go with the component set.Left front chanel=1tweeter,1 midbass,and 1 co-ax,all 6.5" .Right front channel=1 tweeter,1midbass,and 1 co-ax,all type'R' Alpine.The left and right rear channels are type 'R' co-ax 6.5".I did all thatto make my mrp 450-F amp see 2 ohm mode.It did very well,Now I am running a complimentary pdx4-100 .(my friend lets me try out some of the demo amps)the pdx line are really nice.I'm buying the pdx4-150 to go with the pdx 1000.I don't have a lot of space with the vented enclosure w/the 2 12w3-3-4's.Good Luck 02 SENTRA out.........................................................

 
So let me get this right. I cant just buy a set of 2 ohm components for the front of my car and run them the the front 2 channels of my amp to get 2 ohms? I gotta run 2 sets of 4 ohm components in the same channel to get 2 ohms?

 
They make 2 ohm components and you can use a pair to get a 2 ohm load on the amp. That said they may not be any louder than a good 4 ohm set. In most cases the 2 ohm drivers are more of a marketing gimmick than a better performing driver. They may get more power out of the amp but they are usually (though not always) less efficient to the point that they are only just as loud as the 4 ohm setup. They will put more strain on the amp for no gain.

 
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