Rough idle and lights flickering..any ideas?

alxmlr789
10+ year member

6>5
I just got back from firestone, they replaced my heater core/evaporator system, no more leaks, nbo more smoke, and no more breathing in coolant gas //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/woot.gif.aaa6090e619a97b6090d16dd863c5a69.gif

But as i stopped at the first stoplight down the road, I realized that the idle was EXTREMELY rough, seatbelts were shaking, mirrors were shaking, just wow, i was amazed at how rough the idle was. So i pulled in my driveway, and sat for a few minutes. RPM's at idle were bouncing a little, and i noticed a slight flicker in my headlights, dashlights, and inside lights. Does anyone have ANY idea what this could be caused from?

I didnt think replaceing the heater core could have effected anything with the RPM's / idle, but im not sure.

What do you guys think?

 
back when my idle was doing that, and the lights too, i ended up killing my battery because my electrical wasnt enough to keep up with the system

the car would even shut off, after this had been going on a while

also someone told me it couldve been my alt but it ended up being my battery

thought this might help

 
My Eclipse will act like that for the first 100 miles after the battery is disconnected.

It resets the car's ECU to the baseline, and it takes some driving for it to relearn the correct sensor settings, after that it runs fine.

 
i think you should have takin it back to the shop that did the work and be like wtf mate?

they closed at 6, by the time i got back to the shop, doors were shut and locked. I will be going there first thing tommorrow //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

My electrical is decent, g34, big 3 1/0 and a 140a alternator. And all i have right now is a 100x2 amp.

 
I might believe its your computer readjusting. give it a little time, and if it hasnt fixed itself, take it back.
The thing about that is, if i wait too long, I'm sure they will come up with some lame excuse about me doing something to it.

 
The thing about that is, if i wait too long, I'm sure they will come up with some lame excuse about me doing something to it.
You're right, a lot of shops will. So take it back asap, and let them figure out what it is. If the say it will adjust itself, and that you need to drive it for a while, then at least you have proof that the problem happened immediately following their service. Then, if it doesn't correct within an acceptable time frame, take it back and demand that they fix whatever they did.

 
You're right, a lot of shops will. So take it back asap, and let them figure out what it is. If the say it will adjust itself, and that you need to drive it for a while, then at least you have proof. Then if it doesn't correct within an acceptable time frame take it back and demand that they fix whatever they did.
Could it possibly be my alternator? Im not sure if it could be, because it ran fine this morning when i took it to the shop. (aside the fact that coolant fimes were pouring out of the air vents, lol)

 
just go back tomorrow. there really is no way to just diagnose it over the web.

the heater core is in the dash, so i wouldnt be surprised if they pinched some wiring while pieceing it back together. if they had disconnected the battery and the ECU reset it self, then that can cause a problem for quite a while before it relearns all the info it needs. or it could be a coincidence, that something else went out during this time.

its as simple as that. you have SO much leverage in this situation in the eyes of the law. if you end up having problems with them not wanting to take the blame, its as simple as a call to the BAR (beureu of automotive repair).

its making me wonder though why you didnt notice it as soon as you started up the car when you were leaving and said something then (well i guess you kinda did)

 
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alxmlr789

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