Replacement for blown 10w6v2

Derek Gardner

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I have a chevy s10 ext cab with a single 10w6v2 paired with a jl e1400d in a sealed enclosure built to jl specs. The speaker surround material split about a quarter of the way around the speaker, I patched it up with acrylic nail polish (found suggestion on the internet and it's worked for about 2 months) but I'm about to replace the sub. Space in my truck is somewhat of an issue, but I think I can fit 13w3v3 in a sealed enclosure. Questions:

Do you think I will notice a significant drop in SQ with the 13w3v3?

Should I expect a good bit more SP with the 13w3v3?

 
1. yes, you will notice a BIG diffrence in sq.
2. yes you will have more spl.

what are you looking for?
Losing a bit of sound quality isn't going to be a huge issue as most of my music is in the form of mp3s. The w6v2 is the cleanest sounding sub I've ever owned and I've gotten used to the SQ, but I want to get slightly louder bass. A ported box is out of the question, I don't have room for it with all of the other sh*t in the back of my truck. If the 13w3v3 will give me more bang and still sound somewhat "clean" I'll probably go with that. I know JL is overpriced compared to what else is out there, but I've always done JL subs and I've always been satisfied with their products so I'm going to be stubborn and stick with them.

Another question: I measured the back of my truck and the only way the 13w3v3 is going to fit is to put it on my bucket seat on the passengers side and secure it to the seat. Would it sound better facing sideways (pointed toward the bucket seat behind the drivers seat) or facing straight up toward the ceiling?

 
Ok its cool man just wanted to let you know. I just talked to a guy from RD audio, and he gave me a good deal. His name is Kevin Holden. I can give you his email and he should be able to hook you up with a sub.

 
Ok its cool man just wanted to let you know. I just talked to a guy from RD audio, and he gave me a good deal. His name is Kevin Holden. I can give you his email and he should be able to hook you up with a sub.
Thanks, but I ended up ordering the 13w3v3-2 last night. Picked it up for $199. I'm about to run to Lowe's now and get some MDF/carpet and start on my box. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/veryhappy.gif.fec4fed33b4a1279cf10bdd45a039dae.gif

 
there ya go. i have a 10w6v2 that i got new when they first came out and the surround is starting to go.imo the w6v2 line are some very good sq subs.

hope you enjoy the w3.

-vic
If it is just a tear and there are no gaps, get some "hard as nails" acrylic nail polish. Put on a couple of thick coats making sure some goes between the crack. Let it dry and throw on a few more coats. Worked well for me. I hear rubber cement does the job too, but looks like h*ll.

 
If it is just a tear and there are no gaps, get some "hard as nails" acrylic nail polish. Put on a couple of thick coats making sure some goes between the crack. Let it dry and throw on a few more coats. Worked well for me. I hear rubber cement does the job too, but looks like h*ll.

its just cracking on the outside layer, it hasnt went through yet and seems strong still. the sub plays just fine. jl will re-cone it for 215 shipped but iam thinking of going to an 8w7 in its place.

 
its just cracking on the outside layer, it hasnt went through yet and seems strong still. the sub plays just fine. jl will re-cone it for 215 shipped but iam thinking of going to an 8w7 in its place.
What usually causes it to rip in the first place? My sub was never overpowered/abused and is only about two years old.

 
most of the time its due to over excursion. what amp and box were you running?
It was run off of a JL E1400D with the gain set just how JL specifies using a test disc and multimeter. I custom built the box to the exact sealed enclosure specs that JL recommends on their site and it was air tight.

 
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Derek Gardner

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