"hits"?

[fyrspray 10+ year member]

Originally posted by LoneRanger two 18" triple x's are going to be WAYYY more than the amp to drive them.....

 

I'm quite pleased with my Cadence A7 (i swapped my old JBL 1200.1 for it, straight even), and you can usually find those on ebay for >$300. It's not quite 1600w on my electrical system, but (and i can't stress this enough) there's not an amplifier out there that is efficient enough to put out that kind of power on a stock electrical system. If you want crazy power like that, you're going to have to spend more on the power supply than the amp itself.

power supply, do you mean like another battery and isolator or something? don't they have 1600 watt amps? or higher? I was thinking just getting 2 of those amps and 2 xxx's or atleast since I'm pretty happy with my box, just switch out the subs and get 2 amps to push em... I'm reeeeeaaaaallllly wanting to amaze people, like all out... since my car isn't like the best car in the world, but I LOVE the art of suprise, specially if I just come out of the middle of nowhere... but anyhoo I've found out what I have! lol `2 12" kicker compvr's with 800watt 400 rms, with a kenwood 1000 watt amp backing them up. 2 infinity fronts.... I totally forgot what those were but i have my old memphis 300 or 400 watt amp pushing those... I'm pretty sure the infinitys were bout 160 watt each.

 

[LoneRanger 10+ year member]

Originally posted by fyrspray power supply, do you mean like another battery and isolator or something? don't they have 1600 watt amps? or higher? I was thinking just getting 2 of those amps and 2 xxx's or atleast since I'm pretty happy with my box, just switch out the subs and get 2 amps to push em... I'm reeeeeaaaaallllly wanting to amaze people, like all out... since my car isn't like the best car in the world, but I LOVE the art of suprise, specially if I just come out of the middle of nowhere... but anyhoo I've found out what I have! lol `2 12" kicker compvr's with 800watt 400 rms, with a kenwood 1000 watt amp backing them up. 2 infinity fronts.... I totally forgot what those were but i have my old memphis 300 or 400 watt amp pushing those... I'm pretty sure the infinitys were bout 160 watt each.

Power supply = multiple batteries, high current alternator(s), upgraded wiring

A JBL 1200.1 needs 120 amperes of current draw to reach it's full potental at 2 ohms (i'm using this amp as an analogy because it's the one I know the most about). Let's say your stock alternator and battery are pretty beefy and will supply this amount of current even with every other electrical part of the car running (headlights, interior lights, cruise control, etc.). What happens when you add a second 1200.1? They have to share this power. So now they're only drawing half the needed current each (60 amps).

The result: The amps will only perform to half their potential. It'd be the same as only having one 1200.1. To make both amps put out their rated power, you need to supply them with 120 amperes each (120x2=240). The current draw runs up around 150 amperes if you run them at one ohm.

Now let's think in terms of a 1600w amp. It's certainly going to draw more power from the charging system than a 1200w amp (probably between 150 amperes and 160 amperes per amplifier, maybe more if you're running a low ohm load) so you'd need at least 300 spare amperes besides the current your car needs to run it's basic functions. In all reality, you'd need a charging system that puts out about 370 amperes of constant power to achieve the 3200 watts you desire and still have enough left over to keep your head lights from dimming. To achieve this, you'd need two very large high current alternators and at least two deep-cycle batteries. The alternators run about $250 each and the batteries are about $150 each. That's $800 for just the equipment, and you'll still have to machine a custom bracket to hold two alternators. Then figure in the cost of upgrading all your stock wiring to 0/1awg (about $2.50/foot), and it pushes the total up to about $900 (still not counting the cost of a custom machined double-alternator bracket.

Now you see why it's very expensive to compete in the high power classes //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[paikiah 5,000+ posts]

Originally posted by LoneRanger Power supply = multiple batteries, high current alternator(s), upgraded wiring

 

A JBL 1200.1 needs 120 amperes of current draw to reach it's full potental at 2 ohms (i'm using this amp as an analogy because it's the one I know the most about). Let's say your stock alternator and battery are pretty beefy and will supply this amount of current even with every other electrical part of the car running (headlights, interior lights, cruise control, etc.). What happens when you add a second 1200.1? They have to share this power. So now they're only drawing half the needed current each (60 amps).

 

The result: The amps will only perform to half their potential. It'd be the same as only having one 1200.1. To make both amps put out their rated power, you need to supply them with 120 amperes each (120x2=240). The current draw runs up around 150 amperes if you run them at one ohm.

 

Now let's think in terms of a 1600w amp. It's certainly going to draw more power from the charging system than a 1200w amp (probably between 150 amperes and 160 amperes per amplifier, maybe more if you're running a low ohm load) so you'd need at least 300 spare amperes besides the current your car needs to run it's basic functions. In all reality, you'd need a charging system that puts out about 370 amperes of constant power to achieve the 3200 watts you desire and still have enough left over to keep your head lights from dimming. To achieve this, you'd need two very large high current alternators and at least two deep-cycle batteries. The alternators run about $250 each and the batteries are about $150 each. That's $800 for just the equipment, and you'll still have to machine a custom bracket to hold two alternators. Then figure in the cost of upgrading all your stock wiring to 0/1awg (about $2.50/foot), and it pushes the total up to about $900 (still not counting the cost of a custom machined double-alternator bracket.

 

Now you see why it's very expensive to compete in the high power classes //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

safe to say that you scared the bejesus out of him...

 

[fyrspray 10+ year member]

Originally posted by paikiah safe to say that you scared the bejesus out of him...

lol naw, I expected it would cost a shick load of $ I was thinkin bo0ut putting in atleast a new alternator and another battery and a capaictor and then I'd get the add the 5 grand for the xxx's and the amps to power them etc... and amazingly I actually think i understood what u said! lol thanks lone!

 

[swimfreak26 10+ year member]

Dude, I don't think that you are going to have to lay down 5 grand on the subs and amps...if you were planning on that, then i say you'll be fine ungrading your electrical system up the ***.

XXX's are around $600 a piece, and you can get an amp to power them for well under a thousand a piece...probably looking more in the 400-500 range each. that puts you at between 2000-3000 dollars, leaving plenty for electrical upgrades even within what you were planning for the subs and amps themselves

 

[paikiah 5,000+ posts]

Originally posted by swimfreak26 Dude, I don't think that you are going to have to lay down 5 grand on the subs and amps...if you were planning on that, then i say you'll be fine ungrading your electrical system up the ***.

 

XXX's are around $600 a piece, and you can get an amp to power them for well under a thousand a piece...probably looking more in the 400-500 range each. that puts you at between 2000-3000 dollars, leaving plenty for electrical upgrades even within what you were planning for the subs and amps themselves

I think the XXX's go for considerably less than that.. I've always thought that it ranges from around $350~450.

$1000 amp would be awesome, but I think 1600w RMS can be had for a fraction of that cost, so I guess it's even cheaper than your initial estimate, swimfreak //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[swimfreak26 10+ year member]

I was just staying on the safe side by a long shot....it seemed like he thought it was going to cost more than 5 grand for subs and amps, and I just wanted to show that with even very high and rough estimates it was less than half of that.

(also remember that he is getting 18" xxx's so it's a little more pricey)

 

[Bavarian3 10+ year member]

yeah he must be looking at the MSRP prices. call RESPL.com for the real prices.