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that will go into protection and shut down if you try and push it to hard. I use the same one for quick testing headunits and such. However, even some head units can draw to much current for it to operate correctly. If I was going to buy one that would not be the one I pick up. I would look into something bigger. Mine was free so I won't complain.

 
if you plan on doing it for a while pick up a stinger sps70 and a volt gauge. Use the stinger sps70 to charge the agm battery when needed.

Best bet is to buy HT or Pro Audio products and use them. Using mobile audio in a house can get pricey and quickly.

 
I am trying to put together a mobile jukebox and car audio components fit best in the box I am using. I need to draw constant power from a AC source into a DC converter for the amplifier. I am not looking for crazy power maybe 400W into 4 channels. 2 into a 2 ohm load for the subs and 2 into a 4 ohm load for 6x9s.

I was looking at the Soundstream RUB4.500 amplifier powering 2 Fosgate P3D412 Subs and 2 Infinity Kappa 6x9s.

Will this power supply work for that or do I need more power?

 
The thing about using car audio in your house is that the subs and speakers aren't generally fairly efficient, it's pretty uncommon to find HT subs that are rated for more than like 150w rms because they are made to be efficient so it doesn't use up much power. With that being said, you could find a larger amp for your P3's but it probably wouldn't be worth it. I would look into the rubicon 5 channel because the 5th channel is a class D and will draw less power

 
I looked over the stinger SPS40, will that work just directly pulling the AC power, converting to DC and powering the amp without the use of a battery?

Bump, I need to know if I need a battery with this part or can just run it straight through.

 
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marro255

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