Question about MTX 81000D

TheCarFather
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Hello everyone, this is my first post but I have been lurking for a few weeks, searching a lot of old threads building up a knowledge base. Seems to be a great group of people here //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Well on to my question. I am wondering what should be my next steps toward improving my system(bass end). I have put together a decent system for an even better price(got a lot second hand), but I think it needs improvement. I drive a 2001 Focus sedan, so I am dealing with a trunk //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif I am happy with my high end currently, but would like a little bit more low-end. (2x JBL P1222 power series 12")

The reason for this, is that I think my set-up can do better. From what I have read box design is critical, so I had my friend build me a nice box. It's all MDF built to JBL's specifications(3.75ft^3) and filled with polyfill. Ports are built out of wood(one on each end, subs don't share air) and it was sealed up very well. It's tuned to 37hz according to JBL, and does sound like it. (2x JBL P1222 power series 12")

My sub amp is a few years old, an MTX 81000D running at 2ohm. I had a previous system in my car, so I used the wiring that I already had in the car. It's 4ga to the amp, and I did the big 3 under the hood in 4ga as well. Right now I have a basic 60amp fuse kit, and have popped a couple fuses. I saw in the manual for the amp that it needs a larger fuse, so I have a 140amp circuit breaker on the way. Now my first big question is this: The manual says I need at least 1/0ga wire to the amp to reach it's full potential. Will I notice a gain by going to a larger power and ground?? I am all stock minus the big 3 as far as electrical goes, and I think my alternater has seen it's better day. Should I go with a HO alt. and/or second battery....if so which one first??(my lights dim quite a bit and my car will "buck" to the bass a bit while driving). At idle I checked the voltage on the amp while pumping beats, off bass it was ~14.8V and when it dropped hard I saw ~12.5V. No other acc. were on in the car.

I am sorry for the long post, I just have a lot to say I guess. All this reading has got me confused. I had my car metered and the best I saw was 146db, but it wasn't a TL mic. The owner of it said it reads a few db higher than a TL. That was the day I had the subs put in(about 3 weeks ago). Since then I deadend my trunk and did the big 3 under the hood. I know it's a struggle with a trunk, but I want a few more db. I am not trying to go all out SPL because it's a daily set-up, I just love my bass(don't we all //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif ). So I am looking for ways to improve the cheapest and easiest I can. I know the subs could take more power, but I am not trying to get a new amp right this minute.

BTW, a friend of mine hit the same db with ONE of my subs in a ported enclosure built the exact same size as mine(built by the same person, looks like mine cut in half). He had half the power I have, pushing 600W to the one sub. And that was in a 1995 civic 2-door coupe, which is also a trunk car. His seems to peak at a higher hz than mine, my set-up hits the lower end more(the none SPL-friendly area). That was the same case as another buddy with a 07 Tiburon. That has a fiberglass sealed enclosure with 2x JBL GTO 12" subs(model under mine) with 600W between the two and hit 146db on the same mic. I sat in that car too and mine sounded way louder as well. The owner agreed as well. I am confused an need to stop talking //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crazy.gif.c13912c32de98515d3142759a824dae7.gif Thanks for any help in advance everyone, just looking for some guidance //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
I would def advise using 0 Gauge wire if you can. That amp can def pull some amps at full tilt and it is always best to have bigger for future upgrades. I believe the map requires a 150 amp external fuse, thats why your 60 keeps blowing. So upgrade the wire, fuse correctly and set gains and im sure youll be satisfied with your bass.

 
I would def advise using 0 Gauge wire if you can. That amp can def pull some amps at full tilt and it is always best to have bigger for future upgrades. I believe the map requires a 150 amp external fuse, thats why your 60 keeps blowing. So upgrade the wire, fuse correctly and set gains and im sure youll be satisfied with your bass.

Thank you very much for your input. Coming from another 81000D owner I respect your advice. Looks like bigger wire will be in my near future, as I just got my new circuit breaker //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

Sorry about the above post being so long, I just wanted to include as much info as possible to try to help answer my question. I will get more to the point next time //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

 
I would highly recommend using 1/0 with the 81000d, i personally wouldn't use anything less.

Do the big3 in 1/0 as well.

Before replacing your alternator, consider replacing your stock battery with a deep cylce one such as a Powermaster D-series, or a Yellow top.

nG

 
Thanks for the help everyone.

Another question about my Big 3. I did the Alt+ to bat+, bat- to chassis, and then I did Alt- to chassis because I couldn't find a spot to go to the engine. Will that make a big difference if I run that last ground to the engine instead of the chassis??

 
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