Pyramid

It's the kind of amp I might buy used for $50 to throw in the boat or my wife's truck. I paid $44 shipped for a 4 ch DHD for the boat and it does a great job.

But buying new, you can get a Profile, Hifonics, Powerbass, Orion etc. for $100-130 so it doesn't make sense to bother with something as low quality as pyramid.

 
I had a 2-channel Pyramid amp a few years ago, and I was completely dumbfounded by the lack of features.

The amp could not be bridged. Terminals were Molex with wires hanging off. Thumped on turn on/off. External fuse was inline, and soldered to the board.

All the stuff you would expect an amp to have, it failed miserably. I took it apart and used the heat sink for a silent PC build. Otherwise, it was utterly useless.

Also, the fusing is 40 amp... and for a Class A/B amp, means you will get about 250 wRMS total... or around 60 watts per channel. AND YOU CAN'T BRIDGE IT. Get a used mid-level amp, and you'll be MUCH happier.

 
Also, the fusing is 40 amp... and for a Class A/B amp, means you will get about 250 wRMS total... or around 60 watts per channel. AND YOU CAN'T BRIDGE IT. Get a used mid-level amp, and you'll be MUCH happier.
Not that it matters at this point, but...

Just about every Pyramid that isn't their cheapest POS will have all the standard features -- crossovers, bass boost, 2 ohms stereo/4 ohms bridged stability. You just happened to have a SUPER cheap piece of junk that was probably less powerful than the average HU.

And if you look around 20Ax2 is about standard fuse size for a GOOD quality 350w amp. Not that this particular pyramid's some kind of powerhouse, but it will do better than 250w. 350-400 would be realistic IMO.

 
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