Profi Vanadium CS 265 Phase Plug set - Active settings??

[Latina33 10+ year member]

I'm running a set of these active right now, and they sound GREAT! I was just wondering what others that are running this set active have their crossover points set at, and if they're giving them the recommended 120w rms per speaker, or more.

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[genxx 10+ year member]

This where I would start then tweak from there. HPF Mid at 60hz 24db/LPF 2.8khz 12db and work up from there. However, 60hz is going to be low but you can start there. I would start at 24db slope then as you work up adjust the slope until you get it just right.

On the Cal26 I would start no lower than HPF 2.8khz 24db slope but I think you will find HPF 3.5khz at 12/18db works good. That’s where I ran mine at.

Some other guys can give you some good starting points as well. The mid you will have to find the point that works best for you. These are just starting points you will have to tweak everything until you get it right and what sounds best.

I am sure one of the reps will chime in with maybe some better starting points than I have listed.

 

[3.5Max6spd 10+ year member]

Xover points are entirely dependant on your placement.

 

[genxx 10+ year member]

3.5Max6spd-This is true but we can give starting points. We know the slopes are going to vary and no two installs are the same. He has not even gotten into the dealing with the EQ tweaking yet.

We know the mid is no going to play 40hz worth a darn and the tweeter is not going to be safe at 1k. I know you know the safe starting points then he can tweak from the there. We can at least give some reference starting points.

I know you can give some starting info.

 

[3.5Max6spd 10+ year member]

I would start higher like you stated. I dont like the sound of any tweeter in the car regardless of location playing below 3khz.

But if the midbass is trapped behind a door panel, you can even expect high freq collisions in the critical midrange affecting trebble output of the driver. You'll find may people who'll use an pretty substantial undelap and LP their woofers under 2Khz to take the edge off, with the tweets HP ~3.2khz-3.5khz. Theres absolutely NOTHING wrong with underlapping, if you car/install will have a tendency to boost the area.

Remember satelite systems are designed to play as a single speaker and their xover are designed to get optimal phase relationship with them next to one another.

Pull them apart you affect phasing.

Put a driver behind a door panel, high freq collisions happen and you introduce further phase distortion. So this 'Critical' midrange has to be handled corectly.

 

[Latina33 10+ year member]

Thanks for the responses, they really help to give me some perspective.

Here's how my setup is currently configured. My HU is an Alpine 7998, and it's 3-way active capable, so it is configured like this:

SUB:

Low - 80 Hz with a slope of 0 dB/Oct (FLAT – OFF) since the Amplifier slope for the sub channel can not be defeated (it’s a -24dB/Oct slope)

MIDS:

Mid-L - 80 Hz with a slope of -12dB/Oct

Mid-H - 2,400 Hz with a slope of -12dB/Oct.

Tweeters - 2,400 Hz with a slope of -12dB/Oct.

Any comments or suggestions?

 

[dvrmstrng 5,000+ posts]

i thought they were 180RMS???

 

[alphakenny1 10+ year member]

in an active setup, it is entirely up to the install to determine xover points. sorry we can't sit here and tell you what to do. you must play with xover points yourself. however, like manny mentioned, i like to underlap my xover points. maybe try xovering the tweeter at 3khz-3.5khz at different slopes and see how that sounds. but again the xover pts are entirely up to you.

 

[Latina33 10+ year member]

i thought they were 180RMS???

No, that's their peak rating. RMS rating for both the CAL26 and the Phase Plug woofer is 120w per speaker.

Can the CAL26 tweeters really take 120w RMS, by the way? My amp that I'm running for my active setup puts out right around 110-115w RMS X4, and I don't even have my gain set to the nominal setting on my amp for the tweets.

The tweets get pretty hot after playing at loud volumes....can they take the heat, or should the gain be adjusted down even lower for them?

 

[dvrmstrng 5,000+ posts]

oh ok....im running them passive with 200 watts to each side....is it completely different for active...are you biamping?

 

[Latina33 10+ year member]

in an active setup, it is entirely up to the install to determine xover points. sorry we can't sit here and tell you what to do. you must play with xover points yourself. however, like manny mentioned, i like to underlap my xover points. maybe try xovering the tweeter at 3khz-3.5khz at different slopes and see how that sounds. but again the xover pts are entirely up to you.

Thanks man....I guess I should clarify that I'm not really looking for 'instruction' on how to set my xover points, just people's different experiences with setting theirs, so that I can get some ideas on how to go with mine.

My biggest concern is making adjustments to the point to where either the mids or the tweeters might be in jeopardy of being damaged.

I don't mind tinkering at all, but because I'm just getting started with this set, I guess I'm being overly cautious so as to not damage a mid or fry the tweets.

The specs from Rainbow's website for the CAL26 specify that their recommended frequency setting is 2.200-2.400 Hz with a 12db/oct slope. In an active setup, what's the highest they can be set to without having to worry about them being damaged? 3.500 Hz?

 

[alphakenny1 10+ year member]

anything above there recommended frequency range would be okay. i have my tweeters (seas neo aluminums) crossed at 4khz @ 24db/oct right now. granted i am running a 4 way active setup. so yea i'd try anything between 2.5-4khz and see how it blends in with the mids.

 

[Latina33 10+ year member]

oh ok....im running them passive with 200 watts to each side....is it completely different for active...are you biamping?

I was going to run mine passive, but my crossovers seems to be fried, so I went the active route. How do your sound being run passive? You like the sound?

Here's the amp I'm running my setup with...

http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/Alpine_MRD-F752/