PPI Black Ice 4-channel Amps..

[SeniorXJ 10+ year member]

I recently bought my sub amp; Precision Power PPI BK1800.1D Black Ice, & altho I haven't hooked it up yet, I now want matching amps so a 4-channel is needed. If I keep it within the Black Ice series then I have 2 choices:

1) Precision Power PPI BK520.4

2) Precision Power PPI BK800.4

The 2nd choice is the more powerful of the 2 & there's a mere $10 to $20 buck difference in pricing. This will be driving a set of JBL MS62 & JBL coax for rear fill. Both amps will work just fine, but the 2nd one leaves more head room just incase I wanna go bigger & better!! My last question is how can I set up the BK800.4 so its not over powering the components??

Thanks!!

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[NASTY08IMPALA 5,000+ posts]

I recently bought my sub amp; Precision Power PPI BK1800.1D Black Ice, & altho I haven't hooked it up yet, I now want matching amps so a 4-channel is needed. If I keep it within the Black Ice series then I have 2 choices:
1) Precision Power PPI BK520.4

2) Precision Power PPI BK800.4

The 2nd choice is the more powerful of the 2 & there's a mere $10 to $20 buck difference in pricing. This will be driving a set of JBL MS62 & JBL coax for rear fill. Both amps will work just fine, but the 2nd one leaves more head room just incase I wanna go bigger & better!! My last question is how can I set up the BK800.4 so its not over powering the components??

Thanks!!

the bk 800.4 is awesome i run one and love it ...it has a ton of power and a badazz crossover setup

 

[Alrojoca 10+ year member]

Good deal, huge amp, no worries if you set the gains properly, the speakers will handle the rated power.

If room, space is an issue, I would be looking at pioneer GM series, half the size similar power class D more efficient for your electricals and not that much extra money.

 

[NASTY08IMPALA 5,000+ posts]

Or if u need a smaller amp and more effiecient the class d ppi p900.4 is a monster too ...but the ppi bk 800.4 isnt a power hog by any means

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

130 on good 80w speakers isn't excessive at all. Just a little lower than normal gain setting (no bass boost obviously) and a safe HPF setting (100hz?) and they should run fine.

Same goes for the coaxes -- probably a bit more conservative than your settings for the comps.

 

[Alrojoca 10+ year member]

The class D PPI might be better if PPi is the fever. Many JBL ms-62 are running 150 w pe side, what a bout a sub? No sub? If not you could bridge the rears of the 900 and drive a sub qnd the rear coax can be driven by the HU

 

[NASTY08IMPALA 5,000+ posts]

The class D PPI might be better if PPi is the fever. Many JBL ms-62 are running 150 w pe side, what a bout a sub? No sub? If not you could bridge the rears of the 900 and drive a sub qnd the rear coax can be driven by the HU

Hes running sub on a ppi bk 1800 hence wantimg to stick with the bk. 4 ch which i have no problems with..awesome line of amps

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

Are you going to run the BK1800.1D at 1 ohm? Do you have electrical upgrades in place or planned, and if yes, what are they?

 

[SeniorXJ 10+ year member]

Are you going to run the BK1800.1D at 1 ohm? Do you have electrical upgrades in place or planned, and if yes, what are they?

Space is not an issue as I can mount them side by side in the rear of my jeep mounted to the back seat.

The BK1800 will be driving one 12" pioneer premier TS-W3004SPL wired parallel for 2ohms. Sub is rated at 1000rms & amp is rated at 1100rms.

1 Awg welding cable rated @ 160 amps, a 150 anl fuse. PPI recommends a zero g wire with a 160 amp fuse, but im not driving it to its full capacity of 1800rms@ 1ohm.

Yellow top, big 3, & im still pricing out high output alternators.

Pioneer 80PRS head unit

 

[zako 10+ year member]

My last question is how can I set up the BK800.4 so its not over powering the components??
Thanks!!

You can't. Honestly. Just don't do stupid things. Don't listen music at gunshot volume level and back off the volume if your speakers are producing audible distortion. The power ratings of most speakers are completely meaningless. Often they refer to the thermal power handling, but at bass frequencies you often run out of excursion and bottom out much sooner if you let the speaker play lower enough frequencies. I have seen a 100watt speaker bottom out being powered by a 60watt amp.

Regarding which amplifier to buy, given two identical amplifiers, of course, I would take the one with more power, because you will have more headroom for dynamics. However, the more powerful Class A/B amplifier is also much bigger in size, which could be trickier to install sometimes. Personally, I would have installed PPI P1000.1 and P900.4 for the same application, because I prefer the compact size and efficiency of these Class D amps. P900.4 is more powerful than the BK amps, but is smaller and probably runs cooler. At 2ohm, the PPI P1000.1 will have 1000watt RMS power output as BK1800, since P1000.1 was underrated. The primary draw of the bigger BK1800 is that it can give you quite a bit more power at 1ohm.

 

[SeniorXJ 10+ year member]

You can't. Honestly. Just don't do stupid things. Don't listen music at gunshot volume level and back off the volume if your speakers are producing audible distortion. The power ratings of most speakers are completely meaningless. Often they refer to the thermal power handling, but at bass frequencies you often run out of excursion and bottom out much sooner if you let the speaker play lower enough frequencies. I have seen a 100watt speaker bottom out being powered by a 60watt amp.
Regarding which amplifier to buy, given two identical amplifiers, of course, I would take the one with more power, because you will have more headroom for dynamics. However, the more powerful Class A/B amplifier is also much bigger in size, which could be trickier to install sometimes. Personally, I would have installed PPI P1000.1 and P900.4 for the same application, because I prefer the compact size and efficiency of these Class D amps. P900.4 is more powerful than the BK amps, but is smaller and probably runs cooler. At 2ohm, the PPI P1000.1 will have 1000watt RMS power output as BK1800, since P1000.1 was underrated. The primary draw of the bigger BK1800 is that it can give you quite a bit more power at 1ohm.

Once the sub & its amp are installed, then I will re-tune the components & there amp to take more of those low frequencies out & up the volume on the mids & highs. I do like to listen to my music at gunshot levels, but not to the point where SQ is affected!

I looked at a ton of amps before pulling the plug on the BK1800. The BK line of amps look sweet & are well priced! The BK1800 costed me $183 thru Amazon & since im not pulling the full 1800rms from it, it was a no brainer for my needs. I love the look of dual matching amps so the goal here is a matching 4-ch amp to replace the crappy lanzars!

Once again, space is not an issue as they will fit perfect where these bigger Lanzars are mounted:

 

[NASTY08IMPALA 5,000+ posts]

Just go with the 800.4 its a great amp just tune accordingly