Powering DLS Iridiums

[Justintoxicated 10+ year member]

The Power Specs on the speakers say 100 watts.

However when I look at teh 100x2 DLS amp it says Nominal Poer handeling is 100 watts x 2 and the Typical ouput is 150x2

http://www.infinitecaraudio.com/cgi-bin/icastore.cgi?user_action=detail&catalogno=A3

So what kind of watts are the speakers rated at? I'm simply used to RMS is RMS.

I was planing to use my Eclipse 75x2 RMS @ 4 ohms but it sounds liek these speakers really might like to see 150 watts from a typical amplifier or be hooked to a 100 watt DLS amplifier?

I' just confused on the proper power handleing for my Iridiums, thanks.

Click to read more...

 

[Kali77 10+ year member]

100-150wrms is right where they like it. I have mine run off a JL300/2 and they take the power like champs, and sound awesome doing it //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[Justintoxicated 10+ year member]

so I should look into ditching this Eclipse?

How would the 300/2 JL amp sound compaired to the DLS I posted the link to?

I also have a Hifonic Zeuse 600 Watt 150x2 600x1, but I'm not sure it would make a good Component amplifier.

 

[Kali77 10+ year member]

The A3 is a very good amp. If you already have the eclipse, I would give it a try. I am sure it will do just fine, and meet your needs.

 

[GCAdidas13 10+ year member]

i put them on a PPI PCX2200 for a while. 200RMS x 2 at 4 ohms (12v rating)... and they did not get any louder than 125RMS x 2 at 4 ohms from my PPI PCX4125 (again, 12v rating)...

so basically to be safe stick around 125-150 at MAX, because by increasing power you are probably only going to put them more at risk of frying.

 

[Justintoxicated 10+ year member]

It's not an A3, its an eclipse 3321 I believe, it's old, hell it was an older model 5 years ago when I got it, made in USA though, had a slight problem where one channel would cut out every now and then, but it had not appeard for over a year last time I used it, I opened it up and found a plated wire from one of the coilds appeared to be touching and possibly rubbing against something it looked like it should not have been (it would have been soldered not leaning against it, just moved it about 2mm out of the way, have not re-tested it since though. I feel it could have been the issue.

never went into protection or anything, tapping the amp a little would get it working again.

As far as I know it works perfectly, but does not sound like it is powerful enough for the Iridiums.

 

[Kali77 10+ year member]

It's not an A3, its an eclipse 3321 I believe, it's old, hell it was an older model 5 years ago when I got it, made in USA though, had a slight problem where one channel would cut out every now and then, but it had not appeard for over a year last time I used it, I opened it up and found a plated wire from one of the coilds appeared to be touching and possibly rubbing against something it looked like it should not have been (it would have been soldered not leaning against it, just moved it about 2mm out of the way, have not re-tested it since though. I feel it could have been the issue.
never went into protection or anything, tapping the amp a little would get it working again.

As far as I know it works perfectly, but does not sound like it is powerful enough for the Iridiums.

Yeah I know. I was talking about the DLS A3 you linked //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crazy.gif.c13912c32de98515d3142759a824dae7.gif If you were having problems with the eclipse you may want to invest in a new amp anyway. That way you know you will have enough power and you will have a reliable piece of equipment running them.

 

[Justintoxicated 10+ year member]

ohhh no A3 yet hehe, if I got that thing it would drive my subs better than my Current subwoofer amp lol.

the A3 sounds superior to even the JL , but it might be a little overkill if just running fronts?

The eclipse Amp isn't that bad as far as problems and seems to put out a real clean signal, but if it gives me a problem again I will be replacing it for sure. Are the new Eclipse Amps still made in USA?

I'll probably have to save up for the JL 300/2 as I have always wanted one anyways.

 

[Kali77 10+ year member]

ohhh no A3 yet hehe, if I got that thing it would drive my subs better than my Current subwoofer amp lol.
the A3 sounds superior to even the JL , but it might be a little overkill if just running fronts?

The eclipse Amp isn't that bad as far as problems and seems to put out a real clean signal, but if it gives me a problem again I will be replacing it for sure. Are the new Eclipse Amps still made in USA?

I'll probably have to save up for the JL 300/2 as I have always wanted one anyways.

Not true. The A3 would be an excellent choice to run your iridiums.

 

[Justintoxicated 10+ year member]

Not true. The A3 would be an excellent choice to run your iridiums.

Yes but would it not be a bit Under used?

 

[Kali77 10+ year member]

Yes but would it not be a bit Under used?

No not at all. But if money is an issue, there are obviously cheaper alternatives.

 

[Justintoxicated 10+ year member]

I guess I don't understand what your saying.

Whats the Difference between these 2 amps when runnign 4 channel sterio?

http://www.infinitecaraudio.com/cgi-bin/icastore.cgi?user_action=detail&catalogno=CA23

http://www.infinitecaraudio.com/cgi-bin/icastore.cgi?user_action=detail&catalogno=A3

They are both rated @ 100x2 in 4 ohm sterio mode...the later jsut appears to be one ohm stable, but I don't be using the iridims in such a way? Isn't this more of a subwoofer amp, and the first would drive teh components exactly the same for a fraction of the cost?

What is the difference between Typical and Nominal Ratings?

 

[Kali77 10+ year member]

They are going to do the same thing basically. The A3 has a built in cooling fan and a damping factor of >200 as opposed to know fan and a damping factor of >100. The A series is DLS top of the line series. The A3 is a better amp then the classic series. The A3 has other features as well, that I can't think off the top of my head like gold plated connections........ Go check out http://www.dls.se and they should give you a better run down on the differences.

 

[Justintoxicated 10+ year member]

I don't know much about amplifiers hence I have Hifonics lol (actualy I paid $400 for this Hifonics amp about 5 years ago) it was supposed to be a good deal lol I did shop around and everyplace i wet to must have had ripoff prices....oh well that was 5 years ago.

What is the Damping Factor?

 

[Kali77 10+ year member]

Here you go:

Damping Factor

by Ben Blish

April 28th, 2001

Damping Factor is a term audio enthusiasts (and their rabid cousins, the audiophiles) run into time and time again. However, few people actually understand precisely what the term means, what the consequences of a particular damping factor rating might be for the ultimate desired result (sound reproduction!) or what issues affect the application or relevance of damping factor. The idea isn't rocket science, but it's not something you can toss off in a few seconds, either - and so mostly, it stays a mystery. Let's fix that! It'll be a little longwinded, because there are several ways you can look at the issue, but it's interesting if you've got a basic understanding of electric current and voltage, which many people do.

If you don't understand basic electric current and voltage, let's just say that damping factor is a figure of merit that tells you how good an amplifier is at controlling a speaker system. The larger the number, the better it is. At 100 or above, it's pretty darned good. Below 20 or so, it's pretty poor.

When one amplifier's damping factor is higher than another's, that tells you that the amplifier with the higher damping factor can better control the speaker systems, and all other things being equal (frequency response, phase shift, distortion, etc.) that it is a better amplifier.

Here is the link if you want to read all the technical info

http://www.classic-audio.com/marantz/mdampingfactor.html