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asaszn

CarAudio.com Newbie
Hey all, I'm sure this has been asked but I'm not finding a specific answer to my set up. I could use some advice. I'll be as concise but clear as I can on my issue. FYI - I'm an "older timer" in my 40's but installed many systems when I was young. I just didn't know if tech had changed and I'm missing something obvious

The vehicle - My daughters 2014 Ford Fusion HYBRID

The equipment - JBL GT-BassPro12 self powered sub, stock stereo, Kicker KISLOC LOC, Boss Audio wiring kit. All parts new (Besides factory head unit, obviously)

The problem - Everything is hooked up and tested but no sound from sub, not even a pop or murmur

Here are more details

- We wired in the LOC to the speaker wires behind the stereo using wiring diagram
- Wired in remote power line to back of stock stereo too
- Ran RCAs and remote power
- Wired positive and negatives to battery in trunk
- Ran sub gain dial from trunk to dash
- Did all this, got no sound from sub

Here is the troubleshooting we did

- Used mutli meter to confirm we're getting good power to back of sub, confirmed strong power
- confirmed green light on sub turned on when car turned on
- Confirmed signal was coming from RCA's to trunk by plugging RCA's into a portable speaker using RCA to 3.5mm I have, speaker played sound (mainly only bass, not clear sound but I assume that's because the LOC converter sent only low freq).
- Plugged a working sound source (laptop) into back of sub using same 3.5mm to RCA technique and got no sound from sub.
- Confirmed all 6 other speakers were playing normally (4 mids and 2 tweeters, all stock)

So here is what I know

- Sub is powered and indicator suggests it's on
- Signal is coming from back of head unit to trunk via RCA's
- All speakers are playing but no sound from sub

What could I be missing besides the possibility I got a bum sub? I know claiming "my unit is bad" is always the easy go to but rarely the real issue.
 
Plugged a working sound source (laptop) into back of sub using same 3.5mm to RCA technique and got no sound from sub.
Did you check that dash gain knob is turned up? If yes, disconnect gain knob from amp and retry laptop test. Also make sure gain on the amp is down and turn it up after laptop is playing.
 
Yes, tried gain switch up and down and in middle. Yes disconnected it and tried with laptop and with RCA from front if car, yes tried gain up and down on both RCA from car and computer.

One question to clarify, the remote line serves to turn the amp on (obviously). Am I correct in assuming that if the green power light is on on the sub it means it's "on" and not simply getting power, correct?
 
Yes, tried gain switch up and down and in middle. Yes disconnected it and tried with laptop and with RCA from front if car, yes tried gain up and down on both RCA from car and computer.

One question to clarify, the remote line serves to turn the amp on (obviously). Am I correct in assuming that if the green power light is on on the sub it means it's "on" and not simply getting power, correct?
If you can access the sub easily and remove it usually 4 to 8 screws ...you might want to make sure the speaker wire didnt accidentally disconnect from the sub ... I've seen that happen before ...
 
wow guys, great thought! It would totally make sense that a wire came loose. In my experience you often at least hear a thump or a hum when a powered sub comes on, I hear absolutely nothing. I'm going to do that this afternoon and I'll report back.

I also agree with you CRX, I'll test the sub itself.

I have since found it's not returnable on Amazon so I'll try anything at this point to get it working for daughter. Even if the sub was hooked up but fails the test manually, at least I'll only have to replace the sub itself but can keep the amp and enclosure.

Thanks again guys!
 
Good advice from previous members. As a last resort, run the LOC from a rear speaker. If there still is no sound, replace the sub. Choose a vendor with a high rating and a good return policy on Amazon.
 
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asaszn

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