power acoustik

[dave_damage 10+ year member]

I bought a 2001/D and opened it up to take pictures:http://diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46157

I sent some to ampguts but they haven't updated the site since July.

Lame.. can you post them here for people who dont want to sign up just to see them?

 

[endofdays89 5,000+ posts]

is power acoustik below hifonics? Just wondering.

 

[Lothar34 10+ year member]

Lame.. can you post them here for people who dont want to sign up just to see them?

I didn't know they blocked images for non-registered users:

 

[Lothar34 10+ year member]

is power acoustik below hifonics? Just wondering.

I'd say so.

 

[endofdays89 5,000+ posts]

I'd say so.

i always thought power acoustik was one of the absolute lowest brands out there, right there with autotek,legacy and visonik.

 

[Lothar34 10+ year member]

i always thought power acoustik was one of the absolute lowest brands out there, right there with autotek,legacy and visonik.

If I had to judge by the way this amp is built, I'd put PA above those brands. They claim this one will do 900x1@2ohms RMS. I only need 700, so if it's overrated then that's fine with me and it was still a good deal at $160. The set-screw terminals look like they have cheap plating on them, but everything else seems to be quality.

I don't know that I would buy this line for my front stage (I have a JL e6450 now) but for a sub amp, it will be fine as long as it doesn't burn up.

 

[Spectrum]

lets just say my ov1-4000d only has 120 amps of fusing on it...thats

1440 at 12v

1560 at 13v

1680 at 14v

that is the absolute most the amp could ever put out...any more and the fuses would blow

 

[mk_ 10+ year member]

I have the A2400DB PA amp. It is built like a tank. I have had it running at .5 ohm stable for almost a year now. I don't know how much power it puts out (rated 1800wrms @ 1ohm; i doubt it) but for the money it is well worth it.

I'm sick of this company is above this company but below this company BS. It doesn't help anyone. I'm sure there are more out there that can give their opinion on the equipment asked.

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

i always thought power acoustik was one of the absolute lowest brands out there, right there with autotek,legacy and visonik.

The fact that you lump Atek and Legacy together...not good.

I consider PA to be one of the semi-respectable "cheap" brands. Similar to Profile - for some reason PA just chooses to over-rate some of their stuff WAY too much.

If I had to judge by the way this amp is built, I'd put PA above those brands. They claim this one will do 900x1@2ohms RMS. I only need 700, so if it's overrated then that's fine with me and it was still a good deal at $160. The set-screw terminals look like they have cheap plating on them, but everything else seems to be quality.

Yep - layout looks solid. I think if a company like RF or kicker put that in an amp and called it 800w for $200 everyone would think it's great. It certainly looks good on the inside.

lets just say my ov1-4000d only has 120 amps of fusing on it...thats1440 at 12v

1560 at 13v

1680 at 14v

that is the absolute most the amp could ever put out...any more and the fuses would blow

It's really not that black and white. For one - you haven't accounted for efficiency. For another - fuses aren't light switches - 30A fuse doesn't just blow the instant 30.1A tries to flow through it. With a dynamic current demand such as an audio amplifier a fuse that size could pass 40, 50, even 60A on bursts w/o blowing. That's not to say the amp is accurately rated, just that using fuses to determine absolute optimal power output is a LONG way from accurate.

I'm sick of this company is above this company but below this company BS. It doesn't help anyone. I'm sure there are more out there that can give their opinion on the equipment asked.

I've owned one PA amp. An older ov4-800, actually that's my amp on ampguts. It was well worth the price. Probably slightly over-rated, but perfectly effective. That's my impression PA as a whole.

 

[Spectrum]

It's really not that black and white. For one - you haven't accounted for efficiency. For another - fuses aren't light switches - 30A fuse doesn't just blow the instant 30.1A tries to flow through it. With a dynamic current demand such as an audio amplifier a fuse that size could pass 40, 50, even 60A on bursts w/o blowing. That's not to say the amp is accurately rated, just that using fuses to determine absolute optimal power output is a LONG way from accurate.

i said that was the absolute most it could ever put out...i never said you would see those numbers...and i could see a fuse taking 5 amps over the rating but that just accounts for manufacturing flaws...most fuses...if any...will take double what they are rated for...while yes they will take considerably more than their rating for a split second but no longer than that

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

i said that was the absolute most it could ever put out...

but that's not accurate, at least not based solely on fuse size.

and i could see a fuse taking 5 amps over the rating but that just accounts for manufacturing flaws...most fuses...if any...will take double what they are rated for...while yes they will take considerably more than their rating for a split second but no longer than that

If you look at a time constant chart for ATC fuses - http://bussmann.com/SearchResults.aspx?search=atc+data&type=Omni

You'll see a 40A ATC is designed to pass 70A for about >15 sec before melting (average).

A 30A ATC will pass 50A for about 20 sec.

You can only get a rough estimate from the size of the fuses. There's know way to know whether the designer intended them as a form of protection against stress (blowing at the first sign of trouble) or protection from catstrophic failure (blowing just before the amp catches fire).

You might be right that your amp can't do 1700w, but it could well do 1800 or 1900 if you're just looking at the fuses.