Popping!!

[GT5oh]

Hey guys my subwoofers are popping.
can you help?
It only happens on hard bass kicks around 60-80hz. I’m not sure I don’t have much equipment to test with. It’s a bummer because I prefer metal but right now I try to stick to hip hop since metal is mostly 60-80hz bass kicks. It’s a loud electrical sounding pop. If I don’t catch it to turn the volume down, then sometimes after a couple pops the subwoofers start running at about half volume until the car is restarted. I also have an issue with the LPF being turned counter clockwise as far as possible(labeled as 50hz) but it still picks up a verrryy occasion vocal and it’s peaking around 50hz. Plus I still get up to 120hz playing through subs at low volume(compared to the low notes being a high volume). These notes still resonate very hard which makes my box sound like a giant acoustic guitar. This leads me to believe I need to stuff the box..?
anyways it seems like I could turn the volume 40% louder on low notes and then turn the volume knob down on the high notes and crank it but if I accidentally catch one the high notes at full volume it wrecks shop. I don’t understand
Skar RP 2k monoblock (2k rms)
x2 Skar EVL 15s (2.5k rms)
Pulling signal (post) factory amplifier in 2019 mustang(front left audio only)
275a alternator (no dimming lights)
Skar prebuilt box (31hz)
1/0 power n ground both to battery
Popping issues, stuff box?, lpf issues

thanks

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[GT5oh]

I should add that when the volume is forced down to half.. all popping and performance is the exact same relatively but at 50% volume. Meaning the popping happens at 50% of the previous head unit volume and everything acts the same. I just had popping and I turned it down and Now I can’t turn it up but to 50% of the original volume before it pops

 

[GT5oh]

I also have a gravity 7band eq I could wire in to help fight the 100hz notes but it tends to increase the 50hz peak on subs.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Apart from Skar possibly being a weak link pulling source from a factory head unit is definitely a weak link and typical outboard EQs should be avoided at all costs.

Do you have an ipod or similar with headphone jack? You could test a headphone jack to RCA cable using something else as a source to your amp to see if the factory radio integration is the problem. Some pics of the amp as it is installed (pre-amp settings) may help us spot anything obvious you missed there.

 

[GT5oh]

Apart from Skar possibly being a weak link pulling source from a factory head unit is definitely a weak link and typical outboard EQs should be avoided at all costs.

Do you have an ipod or similar with headphone jack? You could test a headphone jack to RCA cable using something else as a source to your amp to see if the factory radio integration is the problem. Some pics of the amp as it is installed (pre-amp settings) may help us spot anything obvious you missed there.

As far as Skar goes. They’ve been pretty bulletproof in recent years. And everything sounds amazing. the EVLs are stupid loud too. I haven’t tried a different source yet. I know I’m sorry... it happens relative to subwoofer volume and not head unit volume. Switched the sub wires out of phase helped a little and it sounds a little cleaner. I will try a different source and update the post tonight. Thank you Hispls

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

Do you have and B&O stereo or the Shaker system? Factory subwoofer?

Adding amps to newer vehicles that have factory amplified systems is always more complicated. Especially with crossover and EQ points.

Are you using a LOC or did you just splice some RCAs into your speaker wiring?

Definitely a source issue.

 

[GT5oh]

Do you have and B&O stereo or the Shaker system? Factory subwoofer?

Adding amps to newer vehicles that have factory amplified systems is always more complicated. Especially with crossover and EQ points.

Are you using a LOC or did you just splice some RCAs into your speaker wiring?

Definitely a source issue.

I have the 9 speaker system
2 x 6.5 in front
3 x 3.5 in front
2 x tweeters
2 x 6.5 in rear
All powered by factory DSP/AMP

T-Taps on front left 6.5 wires, straight into amp.
Tried an NVX LOC but it muddied the sound and eventually caught fire running only as the remote wire haha

You seem to know mustangs
related forscan changes are
Battery charge from 80% to 99%
Bat monitor system off( alt always on)
And EQ disable (preset 0)

I’ll try straight iPod (3.5mm jack to rca) source tonight and update

thanks popwarhomie

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

T-Taps on front left 6.5 wires, straight into amp.

Very probably the weak link. Not sure what the fix is beyond swapping out all the OEM stuff for aftermarket.

 

[GT5oh]

Very probably the weak link. Not sure what the fix is beyond swapping out all the OEM stuff for aftermarket.

Yeah I’m trying to avoid the Rockford dsr1 dsp... still trying to find my dongle to try iPhone audio source