Poor bass on my new sub+amp

[Ku-sama]

yup. was actually beating on a 6.5 earlier

if you have an instant messenger , add me, my info is in my sig

 

[wolfman1966 10+ year member]

if you can't get the pics, at least tell me the Model # of the amp and I can probably google it and tell you

 

[ps2cho 10+ year member]

if you can't get the pics, at least tell me the Model # of the amp and I can probably google it and tell you

Its the XIR3145

 

[wolfman1966 10+ year member]

hmmm, that doesn't come up on google. give me a minute

 

[ps2cho 10+ year member]

hmmm, that doesn't come up on google. give me a minute

Sorry its the 3145 I misspelt and edited, you probbly saw the original.

 

[wolfman1966 10+ year member]

you sure its not an X1A3145? i can find that one

 

[ps2cho 10+ year member]

you sure its not an X1A3145? i can find that one

Yes //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif Sorry the box made the A look like an R.

 

[wolfman1966 10+ year member]

ok, I cant post a pic but if you look above the positives and negatives on your amp, it should say "bridge"

hook both wires going to the positives of your subs to the amps left channels positive,

and hook both wires going to the negatives of your subs to the amps right channels negative.

this will bridge the amp, giving you the full 290 watts that it is capable of (thats 145 watts per sub) instead of the 100 watts per sub it gets the way you have it hooked up....hope this helps.

however, I am still kinda concerned about the remote wire. I know the remote is integrated into the RCA's so does the amp light up and come on?

 

[ps2cho 10+ year member]

ok, I cant post a pic but if you look above the positives and negatives on your amp, it should say "bridge" hook both wires going to the positives of your subs to the amps left channels positive,

and hook both wires going to the negatives of your subs to the amps right channels negative.

this will bridge the amp, giving you the full 290 watts that it is capable of (thats 145 watts per sub) instead of the 100 watts per sub it gets the way you have it hooked up....hope this helps.

however, I am still kinda concerned about the remote wire. I know the remote is integrated into the RCA's so does the amp light up and come on?

Ok sorry I was on the phone with my gf and it's difficult trying to pay attention without her asking listen to me ****it or did you even hear what I just said LOL

Ok basically it wouldn't turn on and I routed it down to the fact the REM was not plugged in so I used a multimeter to connect the +12v and the REM together to make the circuit and the amp turned on. I will have to buy a REM connector tomorrow to make it work properly but the multimeter is just temporary to get the thing powered when I want to test it.

Just to reiterate, you want me to combine the Positives of both subs to the LEFT Positive on the amp, and both Negatives to the RIGHT Negative on the amp correct?

I read about that, but I was weary because I didn't want to blow anything as this is my first time doing amps/subs because I was afraid of overloading the ohms of the amp.

 

[wolfman1966 10+ year member]

Ok sorry I was on the phone with my gf and it's difficult trying to pay attention without her asking listen to me ****it or did you even hear what I just said LOL
Ok basically it wouldn't turn on and I routed it down to the fact the REM was not plugged in so I used a multimeter to connect the +12v and the REM together to make the circuit and the amp turned on. I will have to buy a REM connector tomorrow to make it work properly but the multimeter is just temporary to get the thing powered when I want to test it.

Just to reiterate, you want me to combine the Positives of both subs to the LEFT Positive on the amp, and both Negatives to the RIGHT Negative on the amp correct?

I read about that, but I was weary because I didn't want to blow anything as this is my first time doing amps/subs because I was afraid of overloading the ohms of the amp.

YES, combine the Positives of BOTH subs to the LEFT Positive on the amp, and BOTH negatives to the RIGHT negative on the amp. That is how you bridge that amp. And it won't hurt anything, that amp is bridgeable

Like I said, doing that pulls the most wattage you can get out of that amp, and 145watts each shouldn't hurt the subs.

Also, DONT leave the REM and 12volt connected together, that will keep the amp on at all times and kill your battery.

and I don't know what you mean by a remote connector. All you need to do is run a pieceof wire from the REM on the amp to a wire that only comes on when your key is turned on or in the Accesory position. that way the amp will only come on when your car is on

 

[ps2cho 10+ year member]

YES, combine the Positives of BOTH subs to the LEFT Positive on the amp, and BOTH negatives to the RIGHT negative on the amp. That is how you bridge that amp. And it won't hurt anything, that amp is bridgeable
Like I said, doing that pulls the most wattage you can get out of that amp, and 145watts each shouldn't hurt the subs.

Also, DONT leave the REM and 12volt connected together, that will keep the amp on at all times and kill your battery.

and I don't know what you mean by a remote connector. All you need to do is run a pieceof wire from the REM on the amp to a wire that only comes on when your key is turned on or in the Accesory position. that way the amp will only come on when your car is on

Yeh I have it removed when the car is off right now. I will wire the REM to the audio antenna unit (IIRC my dad said) so when the car is on, the amp will turn on.

So right now two things to do: Check inside of sub for correct + - to terminal then seal the box up with silicon, then after that, bridge the connections and I'll see how that works out.

And thank you everybody for your input so far. I really appreciate it //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[wolfman1966 10+ year member]

well, good luck with the remote, and I hope that this helps your system to sound better. Once you get the remote run right, and hook the subs up like I said, thats probably going to be the best you can do with that system. Like I said, Dual isn't the best, but as long as you are happy thats what matters.

I'm going to bed. IF you need any help in the future, my AIM is REAUDIOBASS and my email is Scheatham@rocketmail.com

 

[wolfman1966 10+ year member]

Yeh I have it removed when the car is off right now. I will wire the REM to the audio antenna unit (IIRC my dad said) so when the car is on, the amp will turn on.
So right now two things to do: Check inside of sub for correct + - to terminal -- seal the box up with silicon then bridge the connections and I'll see how that works out.

one more thing....if you wire the Rem to the antenna wire, the amp will NOT come on when you play CD's because playing CD's does not use the antenna.

what I did was hook a wire up on the fuse that runs the radio, and run it to the remote hookup. I also have a kill switch inline, but thats not really necessary.

 

[ps2cho 10+ year member]

well, good luck with the remote, and I hope that this helps your system to sound better. Once you get the remote run right, and hook the subs up like I said, thats probably going to be the best you can do with that system. Like I said, Dual isn't the best, but as long as you are happy thats what matters. I'm going to bed. IF you need any help in the future, my AIM is REAUDIOBASS and my email is Scheatham@rocketmail.com

Thanks for all your help!

Yes I think once I have tweaked with it and got everything right it will definately sound better. I'm not looking for bass to blow the back of my hatch open...I just want that little bass to fill the car because my 4" speakers in the front and rear just can't keep the bass and volume both high without them cracking.

EDIT: Oh one last question: As for the settings...what should I have it as? High pass/low pass or full range?

one more thing....if you wire the Rem to the antenna wire, the amp will NOT come on when you play CD's because playing CD's does not use the antenna.what I did was hook a wire up on the fuse that runs the radio, and run it to the remote hookup. I also have a kill switch inline, but thats not really necessary.

Yeh thats what I said to my dad too but he reassured me it would work...He is a mechanic...maybe he didn't mean to say Antenna or I'm making stuff up lol?

 

[Imtjnotu 5,000+ posts]

Honestly?? Your first problem is that you bought Dual equipment. Total Crap. You should know, IF you only spent $90, you get what you pay for.... Good car audio does not come cheap.

haha just that right there is wat came to mind first also