Please help me build my system for my 68 Dart

[mclerico83 5,000+ posts]

CVL-5K CADENCE 5.25" 2-WAY COMPONENT SPEAKERS SET NEW | eBay

get these amazing components, you want components up front and these are amazing, their top of the line

3inch coil and 150rms

POLK® db691 6"x9" 3-Way CAR AUDIO SPEAKERS db-691 6 x 9 | eBay

rear is for fill and these will sound amazing

VVX-12 Sub Woofer

gets extremely low

TC Sounds LMS-R 12" DVC Subwoofer

def a must better amp then that massive

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/store/products/12%22-SSA-ICON-12D1%7B47%7DD2.html

http://cgi.ebay.com/ORION-HCCA-12-1st-Gen-Old-School-Brand-New-warranty-/150589916939?pt=Car_Subwoofers_Enclosures&hash=item230fdbc70b#ht_934wt_1139

http://cgi.ebay.com/ORION-XTR-PRO12d4-Brand-New-and-ORIGINAL-XTR-PRO-/380276484229?pt=Car_Subwoofers_Enclosures&hash=item588a3ea885#ht_790wt_1139

these orions are the best deals on the internet imho right now

HIFONICS ZEUS ZXI60.4+1K BEST 5 CHANNEL AMPLIFIER EVER! | eBay

 

[USCG Charger 10+ year member]

I dont have anything yet.. I was told I wouldn't need an extra battery... can you explain more? I have a 120amp Alt on the car thats about it... I was hoping to stay away for extra batteries and changine alts.

 

[mclerico83 5,000+ posts]

i wouldnt go higher then 1200 watts total and do big 3 if your not putting ine xtra power etc.

 

[USCG Charger 10+ year member]

I dont think that system I mentioned is 1200 watts... could be wrong though.

 

[mclerico83 5,000+ posts]

ZRS-C8 CADENCE 5 CH 2000 W AMP SPEAKER & SUB AMPLIFIER | eBay

something like this very efficient really nice amp

or that hifonics 5 channel i showed

ORION XTR PRO12d4 Brand New and The ORIGINAL XTR-PRO | eBay

or

VVX-12D4 SKAR AUDIO 12" SUB DUAL 4 OHM SUBWOOFER NEW | eBay

or

SA-12D4 - SUNDOWN AUDIO 12" DVC 4 OHM SA SUBWOOFER SUB | eBay

or

DC Audio - Woofers

level 3 call rusty direct believe 150 shipped amazign sub

all better subs then the massive easilly

 

---------- Post added at 10:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:00 PM ----------

 

I dont think that system I mentioned is 1200 watts... could be wrong though.

massive n2 is 1600 watts at 1 ohm unless your running at 2 ohm

 

[mclerico83 5,000+ posts]

either way id rather get one of those susb then the massive

 

[USCG Charger 10+ year member]

either way id rather get one of those susb then the massive

Is that just person preference?

 

[mwillis]

Hello,

It's kinda cool just to find someone that is building a pretty sensible system instead of some 20000 Watt system that cost more than the car, etc, etc.

I am just finishing up a 1970 Mach 1. What I've got and am very happy with is: Pioneer DEH4200UB HU from Crutchfield for around $149, Cadence 5.25 components in the kick panels from ebay for $49 (couldn't use the CVL-5K because of mounting depth), CVL-5K mid bass in the rear deck $79, and a 10" 250W powered Bazooka in the trunk $200, ebay. I have an Infinity 110W/ch amp on the mid bass, and a Cadence 100 W/ch on the components. The Infinity was used for around $90??, the Cadence amp was NIB on ebay for like $65. I also bought a Rockford Fosgate 3sixty.2 processor, but so far can't get it to work. While fooling with it last night, I finally just bypassed it and set the crossovers on the amps. I'm pretty pleased as it is. Make that really pleased. Wish I hadn't spent the extra $$ on the processor. The Cadence components are rated at 75W RMS per ch. They are awesome!! Especially for the money. Hope that helps. Ask questions if you have any. I'll check back later.

Willis

 

[Kangaroux 5,000+ posts]

OP, I realize you don't wanna spend much extra $$ on an extra bat and all that but a 68 is def. an old car and it would be balls to kill it by running too much audio equipment. bad4health sells really nice deka batts for $120 shipped and they would easily hold you over for that system.

 

[USCG Charger 10+ year member]

OP, I realize you don't wanna spend much extra $$ on an extra bat and all that but a 68 is def. an old car and it would be balls to kill it by running too much audio equipment. bad4health sells really nice deka batts for $120 shipped and they would easily hold you over for that system.

It's not the money that bothers me on the extra battery... it's just the fack of me havinf an extra one in my trunk with the extra wiring... I was going to put up a false wall to hide the sub box in the trunk to it wouls look pretty clean. I already have a battery in the trunk as I relocated my original.

 

[BASSMEKANIK89 10+ year member]

Ok fellas this is going to be a little long winded with a few different questions. I have a 68 Dodge Dart that I have been restoring. I'm ready to put a system in it. The system I'm looking for will consist of 2 kick panel fiberglass 5.25", 2 6X9 in the rear package tray, 1 10" sub and 1 5 channel amp to run this. Oh and a head unit single din.
I need help on selecting the entire system as I have not bought any of it yet. I would like something of quality as I listen to mostly classic rock, old school rap, and Texas country (Pandora is my friend) lol.

I also need help determining what type of box for me car (ported through the rear package tray or conventional) whats the difference?

My car has a huge engine what puts out around 460hp and has really loud 3" exhaust that exits out the side. I just purchased second skin damplifier 100 sq ft to cover the entire car roof, floor, trunk, and doors. I also go luxury liner to go on the floor over the damplifier. So hopefully this quiets down the old car.

I have been looking at the following speakers and subs and amp. If these are not of quality please tell me as I no nothing about car audio. I just always heard the names JL and Kicker. I'm not trying to shake the earth but want something nice for the car I have been spending all my time and money on.

JL 6X9's C2-690tx 125W 3-Way C2 Evolution Series Coaxial Car Speaker System. $118

JL 5.25 C2 525x 60W RMS 2-Way Car Speakers $109

Sub 10" 10W3v3-2ohm 1000W /300-500 RMS 2-Ohm Subwoofer $155

Amp pick one out of the Two listed here: Kicker 10ZX700.5

340W + 420W RMS A/B and D Class ZX Series 5-Channel Car System Amplifier (ZX750.5) $330

OR

Kicker ZX700.5

750W RMS Class A/B 5-Channel ZX Series Stereo Car Amplifier (11ZX750.5) $330

I do alot of vehicles like this. The challenge that you are going to have is the noise from the engine and the exhaust. In this particular setup I would use a 5 channel amp, but in a different configuration. The setup I would recommend would be a High End 5.25/6.5" component set in the front, inexpensive(not cheap) 6.5" with a plate in the back deck and a 10" woofer in a ported box. I would then run the amplifier bridged into a 3 channel mode. This gives you a ton of power in the front and to the woofer and then run the rear speaker off of the radio thru a HPF. The reason for this setup is simple. Do you ever go to a concert and turn around? No you stare at the stage, so all of the sound should be in front of you and the rear should be rear fill. If the speakers a installed and imaged properly in the front you don't even need rear speakers IMO. As far as brands go you don't have bad choices listed here, but I would NEVER EVER BUY ON WHAT SOMEONE SAYS SOUNDS GREAT ON A WEBSITE! Every person has a different ear. What sounds great to me may sound horrible to you. Find a local dealer that has the products you want to buy in a car for demo and listen to them. Alot of speakers sound better in a car than the do in a display board. As far as the brands that can "give you more for less $", its up to you and your opinion of the products you hear. I know that JL last year was about #50 in car audio sales, but they were #1 in amps and #1 in subs sold. Not too shabby IMO, but i guess "alot" of people could be wrong. I install alot of Audison/Hertz product and they jam. Hell, if you wanna put a set of 130K2 power from FOCAL and run 200 watts to each side you will be blown away but that is a bit more than your initial investment budget posted above. There were some non mainstream companies that were listed in other post, call their corp. offices and ask for a local dealer and take a listen for yourself.

 

[BASSMEKANIK89 10+ year member]

Not sure why you were told you need a extra battery, that seems kind of silly for such a basic audio desgin. There is NO reason that you should need more than 700-900 watts TOTAL for a nice system in that car. Maybe if you wanted to go crazy you could step it up to 1500 watts. Upgrade the alternator for a high current system(900-1500 watts), but don't add another battery that would strain the factory alternator even more and cause more problems than it would solve. It just doens't make sense at all.