Please critique my planned setup, advise on amp?


Cloudpath

CarAudio.com Newbie
Feb 22, 2021
9
0
Earth
Hi, complete audio noob here but have been trying to educate myself. Would love to hear thoughts/critiques on my planned setup for my '87 BMW 325i vert. I listen to many different genres of music but quite a bit is bass-heavy. Consider road/wind noise when top is down.

RECEIVER: Pioneer MVH-S522BS (4 volt, 3-way network mode crossover, 6-channel pre-amp outputs, compatible with Pioneer microphone Auto EQ, fits my car...)

SPEAKERS: either 6.5" Polk DB 6502 or Morel Maximo 6 installed in front kick panels (not doors) with tweeters in oem tweeter pods in doors. Open to other suggestions in this price range or even a bit higher that offer strong midbass frequency.

SUBWOOFER: I prefer to put the sub in the cabin rather than the trunk for a couple reasons and I rarely carry rear-seat passengers, looks like I can fit a very shallow wedge-shaped custom-fabbed (by someone else) enclosure in the rear passenger-side footwell with 0.4-0.45 cubic ft volume, sealed, with some form of quick-disconnect mount. (I am too tall to fit a similar enclosure behind the driver seat.) JL 10TW3-D4 requires too much volume and probably has lower output than I need, and the Sundown SD-4 is too big...

SOOOOO, I am trying to decide between the Kicker 10" L7T10 solo-baric (square, 500 RMS, 86 db sens, 25-100hz, 2 ohm, DVC), and the new Kicker 10" CompRT 48CWRT102 (round, 400 RMS, 25-500hz, 85 db sens, 2 ohm, DVC). Very hard to decide between the two because I THINK they should both fit and would have adequate enclosure volume...

The other alternative is TWO powered Kicker Hideaway HS-10s (10", 180 RMS each but 400 at 4 ohms, 25-120hz) mounted vertically in each rear footwell, as they don't fit under the seats.

AMP: ...??? Seeking recommendations as I am a bit lost here. I figured I could get away with a lower powered/less expensive amp by going with an efficient 2 ohm DVC sub? Unless I go with the dual Hideaway powered subs...? Not sure what features I need.

Thanks in advance!
 

LsGuy

Manila Gorilla
Sep 11, 2020
403
108
Ohio
10TW3 only wants .5 sealed, you sure you can't pull that out?

If not

 

WorldsLoudestCreature

CarAudio.com Recruit
Jan 31, 2021
44
0
Georgia
I would get off the kicker thought, because you can get MUCH better for cheaper, and obviously not much more. Stick to these brands they have TONS of options. Sundown audio, B2 Audio Etc... Those 2 are my favorite and have anything and everything you could ever ask for or want. What's your budget?
 

Cloudpath

CarAudio.com Newbie
Feb 22, 2021
9
0
Earth
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #4
10TW3 only wants .5 sealed, you sure you can't pull that out?

If not
Thanks for the reply; someone else recommended the Dayton over the Kickers for my application. It is also slightly possible I could get up to 0.5 cubic ft for the enclosure to use the JL if I make the enclosure a little taller. I guess I would need to talk to some audio installers who would put the box together for me. I suppose the JL is clearly superior to the Dayton?
 

WorldsLoudestCreature

CarAudio.com Recruit
Jan 31, 2021
44
0
Georgia
Hi, complete audio noob here but have been trying to educate myself. Would love to hear thoughts/critiques on my planned setup for my '87 BMW 325i vert. I listen to many different genres of music but quite a bit is bass-heavy. Consider road/wind noise when top is down.

RECEIVER: Pioneer MVH-S522BS (4 volt, 3-way network mode crossover, 6-channel pre-amp outputs, compatible with Pioneer microphone Auto EQ, fits my car...)

SPEAKERS: either 6.5" Polk DB 6502 or Morel Maximo 6 installed in front kick panels (not doors) with tweeters in oem tweeter pods in doors. Open to other suggestions in this price range or even a bit higher that offer strong midbass frequency.

SUBWOOFER: I prefer to put the sub in the cabin rather than the trunk for a couple reasons and I rarely carry rear-seat passengers, looks like I can fit a very shallow wedge-shaped custom-fabbed (by someone else) enclosure in the rear passenger-side footwell with 0.4-0.45 cubic ft volume, sealed, with some form of quick-disconnect mount. (I am too tall to fit a similar enclosure behind the driver seat.) JL 10TW3-D4 requires too much volume and probably has lower output than I need, and the Sundown SD-4 is too big...

SOOOOO, I am trying to decide between the Kicker 10" L7T10 solo-baric (square, 500 RMS, 86 db sens, 25-100hz, 2 ohm, DVC), and the new Kicker 10" CompRT 48CWRT102 (round, 400 RMS, 25-500hz, 85 db sens, 2 ohm, DVC). Very hard to decide between the two because I THINK they should both fit and would have adequate enclosure volume...

The other alternative is TWO powered Kicker Hideaway HS-10s (10", 180 RMS each but 400 at 4 ohms, 25-120hz) mounted vertically in each rear footwell, as they don't fit under the seats.

AMP: ...??? Seeking recommendations as I am a bit lost here. I figured I could get away with a lower powered/less expensive amp by going with an efficient 2 ohm DVC sub? Unless I go with the dual Hideaway powered subs...? Not sure what features I need.

Thanks in advance!
For the price of that kicker 10" you could get a Sundown SA Rev 3 10" and I promise that will outperform the kicker in almost every way. Amps on the other hand are a little more expensive, what's your budget for an amp?
 

Cloudpath

CarAudio.com Newbie
Feb 22, 2021
9
0
Earth
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #6
I would get off the kicker thought, because you can get MUCH better for cheaper, and obviously not much more. Stick to these brands they have TONS of options. Sundown audio, B2 Audio Etc... Those 2 are my favorite and have anything and everything you could ever ask for or want. What's your budget?
Yes I looked at the Sundown but it is too large I think for the enclosure, and I am not familiar with B2. Budget is flexible... I guess I am probably aiming for the 'best value' components; I can go above cheap stuff, but it seems.like you can get good quality woofers for $150-$250? I know the JL shallow 10in is widely praised but goes for around $360... Could possibly swing that, but if the Dayton or something else offers 90% of the performance or better for less than half the price I could go that route?

Amp budget... I really don't know. Where about does the optimal cost to performance point lie for someone who is a little more than casual and wants something that sounds amazing, but not nearly an audiophile?
 

WorldsLoudestCreature

CarAudio.com Recruit
Jan 31, 2021
44
0
Georgia
Yes I looked at the Sundown but it is too large I think for the enclosure, and I am not familiar with B2. Budget is flexible... I guess I am probably aiming for the 'best value' components; I can go above cheap stuff, but it seems.like you can get good quality woofers for $150-$250? I know the JL shallow 10in is widely praised but goes for around $360... Could possibly sing that, but if the Dayton or something else offers 90% of the performance or better for less than half the price I could go that route?
The sundown I just mentioned only requires 0.5 cubes sealed and 1 ported.....
 

Cloudpath

CarAudio.com Newbie
Feb 22, 2021
9
0
Earth
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #8
^Yes but I think the SD mounting depth might be to great for the shallow enclosure compared to the others.
 

LsGuy

Manila Gorilla
Sep 11, 2020
403
108
Ohio
If you can swing the JL both money and space wise, it is the slim sub choice. I just went through this same thing and ended up grabbing 2 10TW3's. I'm going to get the box built for them this morning. If not, that dayton is a solid contender. Amps don't have to be expensive, though it depends which sub you grab. The JL can run 400 rms, whereas the dayton is 2-250 IIRC. Taramps makes some great budget amps, or you could swing into a best buy and grab a kicker 400.1 for $130.
 

Cloudpath

CarAudio.com Newbie
Feb 22, 2021
9
0
Earth
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #11
Just realized I am an idiot and didn't account for wood or even fiberglass thickness, or subwoofer displacement in my volume calculation. Don't even have enough volume for the 8in JL. Looks like I will have to go with 1 or 2 of the powered 10in kicker hideaways. At least the are well-reviewed! Not sure howor if hey interact with an amp at all.
 

Cloudpath

CarAudio.com Newbie
Feb 22, 2021
9
0
Earth
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #13
Looks like I barely have enough volume, 0.2 with sub displacement, to fit the 8in versions of either of those first two kickers I posted about. Probably better than the powered 10in subs?
 

Bobbytwonames

Angry Old Man
Aug 28, 2018
3,738
104
Vegas
Just realized I am an idiot and didn't account for wood or even fiberglass thickness, or subwoofer displacement in my volume calculation. Don't even have enough volume for the 8in JL. Looks like I will have to go with 1 or 2 of the powered 10in kicker hideaways. At least the are well-reviewed! Not sure howor if hey interact with an amp at all.
Does that year convertible have a fold down arm rest in the back seat? If it does, then, put the bass in the trunk and put the arm rest down and cut an access hole to the trunk. I did it in a 2001 BMW 3 series convertible and it sounded great. Then, put a single 12" in the trunk.
 

Kickstand

CarAudio.com Regular
Jan 1, 2021
109
25
Maple Ridge
I don't think it does from the pics I've seen.
Years ago a friend had a civic hatchback that he had fiberglass "pods" made for the area where the armrest is in the back seats.
He put RF 8" on each side and ran them off of a punch 100 and it sounded really good.
I see the armrest area in the 91 325 vert already holds the rear speakers so it might be possible but the cost might be a little high and it would defiantly need some modification to that whole area.
 

Bobbytwonames

Angry Old Man
Aug 28, 2018
3,738
104
Vegas
I don't think it does from the pics I've seen.
Years ago a friend had a civic hatchback that he had fiberglass "pods" made for the area where the armrest is in the back seats.
He put RF 8" on each side and ran them off of a punch 100 and it sounded really good.
I see the armrest area in the 91 325 vert already holds the rear speakers so it might be possible but the cost might be a little high and it would defiantly need some modification to that whole area.
In my 2001 BMW convertible we just folded down the center arm rest and cut the hole out with a sawzall. I ran a single XFL12 in the trunk in a pre-fab box for a Kicker L7 12" (new baffle piece). We aimed the sub right at the hole in the armrest. It got down pretty good. I only had an 1,100 watt lightning audio amp on the sub. If the OP wants any kind of "legitimate" bass, then, he will have to use the trunk.
 

LsGuy

Manila Gorilla
Sep 11, 2020
403
108
Ohio
Looks like I barely have enough volume, 0.2 with sub displacement, to fit the 8in versions of either of those first two kickers I posted about. Probably better than the powered 10in subs?
I'd just get the powered 10s then. Running 8s in .2 sealed is likely going to hit a relatively high FC. Of the powered subs the kickers honestly are one of the better ones, but don't expect to shake your windows with them.
 

hispls

CarAudio.com Veteran
5,000+ posts
10+ year member
Sep 10, 2009
11,552
524
Central Maine
I prefer to put the sub in the cabin rather than the trunk
Nearly always a recipe for disappointment. Subwoofers never do well in the center of a room (vehicle) and almost always to best loaded into a corner. You're fighting an uphill battle already if you're trying to pressurize a convertible or soft top or similar.

Honestly the best thing to do if you want to feel some bass in an open top vehicle is implement the Aura Bass Shaker or similar tactile transducers in your seats. Those plus pretty much any small subwoofer will give the impact of good bass for passengers in that type of vehicle. I've seen this done ages ago when I worked at a big shop and it was really impressive.

Also, Dayton products are solid. They will perform as advertised, are reasonable quality for the price point, and you can see lots of reviews for each specific product over at Parsexpress. I've always had good luck with kicker either, they should also do what they claim and if you're buying local you'd at least get support from the B&M shop assuming they're reputable.
 

Cloudpath

CarAudio.com Newbie
Feb 22, 2021
9
0
Earth
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #19
I'd just get the powered 10s then. Running 8s in .2 sealed is likely going to hit a relatively high FC. Of the powered subs the kickers honestly are one of the better ones, but don't expect to shake your windows with them.
Ahh, so even though those 8's say they can operate at 0.2 ya still think the powered 10's would be better? And for powered, also considering the Cerwin Vega VPAS10, looks pretty similar to the Kicker Hideaway HS10... Any thoughts there?
 

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