Picture is worth a thousand words

[Mexar 10+ year member]

http://i481.photobucket.com/albums/rr171/Mexar1/WeirdVent.jpg

Drawn in paint, I ****, but gets the idea across

Click to read more...

 

[Pioneer~Saturn 5,000+ posts]

Doesnt look bad, but what are the specs on it?

(And I assumed you were asking for comments on it..)

 

[dragnix 5,000+ posts]

Doesnt look bad, but what are the specs on it?
(And I assumed you were asking for comments on it..)

you're an ***

 

[PsychoTheRapist 5,000+ posts]

I hate it. Back to the drawing board for j00!

 

[Pioneer~Saturn 5,000+ posts]

you're an ***

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[Tehgregzor 10+ year member]

I see what he's attempting to do...but you need to look at fiberglass for an option if you're looking at something as crazy as that setup....

 

[Mexar 10+ year member]

I'm very sure I could build it as shown in the picture, I guess what I'm asking is would the port work?

Would the port length be measured from the end of the vent that would be partially sticking out from the front of the box, and how much of a solid plate would the backing piece need compared to a totally flat wall... say that port is 12X3.

Actual specs would be 3.5-4cubes, 36sq. in. port area X 15.5" deep for a tuning of 33-34hz

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

Why do you think that you need a flat wall in front of the port? That wall isn't part of the port and you only need enough room (at least a full port diameter) for the port to "breathe" in front of it. Whether the enclosure wall nearest the port opening is square to the port or not is irrelevant. Port tuning is a factor of the volume of air in the enclosure and the area and length of the port. Now, that said, you can change the end correction for the port by moving that internal wall so that it supports the end of the port on the inside. That will shorten the required port length a bit by allowing the air to transition from the free air inside the box to moving in and out of the port.

 

[Mexar 10+ year member]

Thanks Helotaxi, that's about exactly what I was after...

To take your explanation one step further, I wouldn't have to have the port sticking out the angled box front then, as long as it had (12" or 3" ??) of clearance from the back corner of the box right? (It's gonna be a 12X3" port)

And does it really matter if there's bumps, or weird shapes in a vented box... I'm thinking I'll have to box around some like mini wheel well's in the car... mostly to get the box flush to the back of the seats, and to give me that big of extra air without moving closer to the hatch.

Edit : I'm really not a newbie to building boxes (14 enclosures built)... I've just never been successful with a port, and I don't wanna waste a whole pile of MDF building this

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

The volume and the port length and area are the important things for a basic ported enclosure. If you're chasing tenths of dBs on a meter, it's a bit more involved.