Phoenix Gold Ti6 MIDs opinions..

[tcguy85 10+ year member]

haha, well that would make them pointless then. . .

if that is in fact the truth then yes they would be useless to me. i love mid-bass now that i actually have some. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[tcguy85 10+ year member]

here is the second answer i got from DIYMA.com

Quote:

Originally Posted by 89grand View Post

I could be wrong, but I thought those didn't make shit for midbass. I think they had low frequency sensitivity issues.

I've heard the same thing, low midbass output. Here's a short review from an older thread.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...x+gold+ti%2 A

Quote:

Originally Posted by mvw2 View Post

I've used the Ti6 woofer. They're dead flat from 150Hz to 2kHz. Low frequency sensitivity is not good below 150Hz and high frequency sensitivity is rising and overpowering above.

 

The woofers are very much geared for small, sealed kickpanel use. They are not designed for door use. Understand this when you buy them. Both low frequency response and powerhandling is GREATLY improved if you run them in their intended small, sealed enclosures. I've run them in the doors. They are not happy there. Xmax is just 3mm which is a very limiting factor for output. Along with poor low frequency sensitivity down low, you're sitting at 100Hz or higher for a X-over point. I thought they sounded best in the 125Hz to 150Hz range. This gets them above their roll off point and doesn't rely on their low excursion levels. There's no chance at crossing below 80Hz. They'll just bottom out at anything above normal listening levels after you EQ up the response to a useable level. Throw them in kick panels you'll be very happy. Throw them in the doors unsealed, you will be very disappointed. Also, the passive crossver is crossed way up at 3kHz which is not favorable for being heavily off-axis, again a point for kick panels.

 

The pricing is pretty good. It's around where PG was selling them through PG Direct back when they were discontinued prior to their recontinuation.

 

I wouldn't mind seeing their MT-22 based tweeters sold seperately too.

so DO NOT mount them in your doors and expect great results!

 

[ItalynStylion 10+ year member]

^I just read that....disappointing to say the least. Oh well.

 

[tcguy85 10+ year member]

maybe grab the ID/OEM mids that are in the classified section, if i needed new mids i'd try them out.

 

[miker 5,000+ posts]

How about for r ear fill?? I could probably make a nice sealed enclosure that would fit in my rear deck.

Not saying I will, but would that be a good application?

 

[xplicitACTS 10+ year member]

How about for r ear fill?? I could probably make a nice sealed enclosure that would fit in my rear deck.
Not saying I will, but would that be a good application?

I would say take the cash you were going to invest in your rear fill and put it in your front stage.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[miker 5,000+ posts]

I would say take the cash you were going to invest in your rear fill and put it in your front stage.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

mm, yes. Deaden it,and get a new amp. and fiberglass.

 

[tcguy85 10+ year member]

I would say take the cash you were going to invest in your rear fill and put it in your front stage.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

yup, no sense in rear fill anyway. spend a ton on your front stage then find a sub that suits your needs and you'll be happy.

 

[miker 5,000+ posts]

yup, no sense in rear fill anyway. spend a ton on your front stage then find a sub that suits your needs and you'll be happy.

I have a sub that suites my needs.. It's finding a box, thats the hard part, lol.

And the fact that my car doesn't want to get loud..

 

[Fast1one 10+ year member]

I just found these as well and stumbled on this thread....here are some specs

This is why it is ESSENTIAL that you guys check the T/S parameters before buying woofers, ESPECIALLY when dealing with midbass response. There seems to be a lot of guess work, but here really is not guess work at all...with such a large coil I would expect the QES to be very low, and this chart confirms my beliefs...

Its no surprise, with a QTS of .33 this would lack midbass in an IB or sealed alignment. These would be much better off in a home alignment in a bass reflex...

Simple rules of thumb when choosing midbass drivers in IB or sealed alignments. Keep in mind that you still need experiences from others for the midrange response...

QTS: Aim for AT LEAST .5 or higher, preferably in the .7+ range. Ever wonder why the RSDs have such great midbass? IIRC, their Q falls between .7-.9

FS: One could argue just as important, but IMO comes second to QTS. A good way to compare drivers is to take FS/QTS. The lower number, the better for IB or sealed pods...

X-max: With these drivers, it is essential to have plenty of throw to work with. A higher QTS means either a weaker motor, soft suspension, or both so you may run out of throw very quickly, especially when the Q surpasses the 1.0 level.

There are obviously trade offs for each, but higher Q drivers have higher sensitivity, roll off closer to their FS (extend lower), and are "Punchier".

 

[tcguy85 10+ year member]

This is why it is ESSENTIAL that you guys check the T/S parameters before buying woofers, ESPECIALLY when dealing with midbass response. There seems to be a lot of guess work, but here really is not guess work at all...with such a large coil I would expect the QES to be very low, and this chart confirms my beliefs...
Its no surprise, with a QTS of .33 this would lack midbass in an IB or sealed alignment. These would be much better off in a home alignment in a bass reflex...

Simple rules of thumb when choosing midbass drivers in IB or sealed alignments. Keep in mind that you still need experiences from others for the midrange response...

QTS: Aim for AT LEAST .5 or higher, preferably in the .7+ range. Ever wonder why the RSDs have such great midbass? IIRC, their Q falls between .7-.9

FS: One could argue just as important, but IMO comes second to QTS. A good way to compare drivers is to take FS/QTS. The lower number, the better for IB or sealed pods...

X-max: With these drivers, it is essential to have plenty of throw to work with. A higher QTS means either a weaker motor, soft suspension, or both so you may run out of throw very quickly, especially when the Q surpasses the 1.0 level.

There are obviously trade offs for each, but higher Q drivers have higher sensitivity, roll off closer to their FS (extend lower), and are "Punchier".

.68 on the rsd65cs's

 

[edzy 10+ year member]

I am running a set of the TI Comps. I would not buy them again. I had them on 300 wrms as stated, Cone separation ftl. Tweets smoked twice. PG warrantied them. These were run thru a PG SX4600 amp. Now I have em running at 100. Still not as impressed as They claim i should be. I do like the look of the X-over, But it fails at keeping the tweets cossed where they need to be.

 

[rc10mike 10+ year member]

Dang, its seems when something looks TOO good for the price, they probably ****, Ill stick with my REVs for now.

 

[Fast1one 10+ year member]

.68 on the rsd65cs's

Told yas //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[tcguy85 10+ year member]

Told yas //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

not an expert on T/S specs but thats good right?