PDX 1000.1 or JL 1000/1

[kfx450r 10+ year member]

so for these subs if i got the sundown 2000d i'd have to turn it wayyy down wouldn't i?....

There rated at 600rms correct? Not sure whatd theyd take but id think atleast 750-800? Ive never had experience with them, i wouldnt say WAAAY down but the 2000d prob does 2300+ so yah turned down

 

[kfx450r 10+ year member]

I can get a 1000/1 cheaper than that, BNIB and authorized, but thank you for playing!


I pity those who pay MSRP for ANYTHING, especially 12 volt electronics!

But can your jl 1000/1 amp that you can get for cheaper than that BNIB and authorized do 3500w at 1 ohm? Oh no? your welcome for playing

 

[gunz4me2 10+ year member]

But can your jl 1000/1 amp that you can get for cheaper than that BNIB and authorized do 3500w at 1 ohm? Oh no? your welcome for playing

Nice try, but I believe I specified 4 ohms, not 1 ohm.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

OTOH, that RD 3250 beats the price I can get and you have a point about future expandability.

ETA: For the record, I don't own any JL Audio amplifiers, I was just looking for a good price on a class D amp that produced 1,000 watts RMS @ 4 ohms.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

 

[kfx450r 10+ year member]

Nice try, but I believe I specified 4 ohms, not 1 ohm.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif
OTOH, that RD 3250 beats the price I can get and you have a point about future expandability.

Lol just sayin, it may be a little more but it'll do the same as the Jl and then its like a opening a christmas present and BAM 3500wrms also lol. I guess if you were dead set on 1 set of subs for the rest of your life maybe thatd be cool but in this hobby, that never lasts long //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif Ive learned my lesson, ive been to like 4 systems now and my next setup will def get a overpowered amp for future expandability. Ne ways id suggest atleast like a 2k watt amp turned down in this situation especially since your budget is 600$ you can afford it and keep some cash but id personally get the RD its a rediculous price for the wattage you get and just wire it down to 2 or 4 ohms and adjust gain

 

[gilbert383 10+ year member]

okay so how about a hifonics bxi-2008d or a sundown 2000d

 

[kfx450r 10+ year member]

okay so how about a hifonics bxi-2008d or a sundown 2000d

If your buying new i wouldnt see why not to jsut get the RD on presale, ive never had their products or anything but everyone says there good reliable amps that do rated and then some and if you got something like the sundown youd be paying the same for 1k less watts. Nothing against sundown just better investment choices here, the BXI is a good amp but sundown kills it

 

[gilbert383 10+ year member]

can u give me a link to the rd...and i'm not trying to put a new alternator or battery in the back i can deal with a little dimming could put a cap in there but not trying to spend outragious amount of money on this...i wouldn't see why a 1500 watt rms would hurt it too bad i've had 1800 in there b4 on stock plus amp kit

 

[gunz4me2 10+ year member]

The only BXi series I would go for would be the 2010d. Given those choices, I would go Sundown 2000 or AQ2200 for 1 ohm power OR one of the 3,000 watt Class Ds for 4 ohm power.

Lately, I have become a strong proponent of going with the best amp for the price that gives me the RMS power I need after I exited the Old School FAILBOAT express. When it comes to subwoofers, I can't tell the difference between an uber expensive Class AB amplifier, a decent class D, or the Clarion Class GH amplifier, so I say go with the best option for the price!

 

[kfx450r 10+ year member]

can u give me a link to the rd...and i'm not trying to put a new alternator or battery in the back i can deal with a little dimming could put a cap in there but not trying to spend outragious amount of money on this...i wouldn't see why a 1500 watt rms would hurt it too bad i've had 1800 in there b4 on stock plus amp kit

Eh dont frequent it to much, check out caraudioclassifieds.org under amps i suppose. You can always wire it down to 2 or 4 ohms if possible and adjust the gain down, another option maybe look at a used SAZ1500 those usually go for around 300$ ish and have benched close to 2k. Also if you havent yet big 3 would be a good idea, if you got dimming maybe a little extra batt out back. The RD presale is by far the best bang for your buck if u ever planned to go bigger if not prob the sundown 1500 would be good, or the AQ 2200 great amps good prices. Stock alt would be fine up to 2k ish watts if you had a good battery supply and a few runs of 0 gauge.

 

[gilbert383 10+ year member]

i feel like such a n00b when someone says stuff like that

big 3 kit?

a few runs of 0 Gauge? ha i only know to send the power to the amp and ground do a ground how r u gonna get a few runs...dont laugh lol

 

[gunz4me2 10+ year member]

I could say search, but the big 3 is basically to upgrade your under the hood battery negative to chassis ground, your chassis to engine ground, and your alternator to battery charging wire with 1/0 or 4 gauge wire.

I am also a proponent of upgrading the grounds first then saving the alternator charging wire to battery for last UNLESS you are doing a HO alternator OR your alternator charging wire is fairly easy to get to. Both my 97 Civic and 2006 Mustang GT are hella fun to get to that alternator charging wire. Then again, the prior owner of my Rustang already added a HO alternator and a 4 gauge charging wire, so I am not as concerned about it. As for my Civic, I ran that last length of 1/0 when I installed the 175 amp alternator.

ETA: The reason I generally save the alternator to battery positive for last is because the factory wire should be more than adequate to handle the charge from the factory alternator. If not, there is NO WAY that vehicle should have left the assembly line. When you go HO, all bets are off and the factory wire will generally be less than adequate.

 

[kfx450r 10+ year member]

i feel like such a n00b when someone says stuff like that
big 3 kit?

a few runs of 0 Gauge? ha i only know to send the power to the amp and ground do a ground how r u gonna get a few runs...dont laugh lol

search Big 3 on here, you'll find many links, its upgrading the stock like 8g wire from your alt/batt/ground and adding 0g to it, really helps with dimming/power issues etc, only costs a few terminals and a few feet of 0 gauge. a few runs of 0 gauge as in if your running 2k+ watts you may want like 2 runs of power wire and 2 runs of ground going into your amp (distro block of course). as in 2 sets of wires of 1/0 gauge wire. But it may not be 100% necessary, you could get away with just 1 run of each if your only pushing around 1k watts or so. I ran around 1k watts on my stock 130amp alt without the big 3 done and a walmart batt and a 2 farad cap (for volt meter) and i never dropped below the 12s but i did drop into the 12s, so with big 3 i prob woulda been set.

 

[gilbert383 10+ year member]

ok if i went with the BXI-2010d and the 2 12w6v2 and 0 gauge wire a 2 farad cap i should be good...unless when its installed my lights are dimming crazy then go with a couple runs of the 0 gauge with a distribution block and big 3?

is that hifonics amp rated at .5ohm?

 

[southpoleman69 10+ year member]

I hate to be a jerk here, but which amplifier is better for way cheaper? Find me a BETTER Class D amp that produces 1,000 watts RMS @ 4 ohms for less $$ than the JL Audio 1000/1.
well ya of course there arent many amps out there at 4 ohms doing 1000.

BUT how many people really pay that much for a 1000 watt amp.

what are you running, if u dont mind me asking.

and, y would u run w6s at 1 ohm????? i wouldnt, i had my w3s down to 1 ohm, which with a jl amp, u cant do.

it just makes sense to find an amp thats actually stable with a higher rms, and cheaper. imo

 

[gunz4me2 10+ year member]

what are you running, if u dont mind me asking.

First off, I want to apologize to the OP for the threadjack, but since it was asked, I will answer.

In my 2006 Mustang GT I have:

JL 13w6v2 Stealthbox powered by a Clarion DPX1851 @ 2 ohms

A Lunar L450 currently powering the stock Shaker 500 door 8s from 80 to 200 Hz and some Infinity Kappas from 200 Hz on up.

I plan to replace the Shaker 500 subs with some Mach5Audio MLI-65s and the Kappas with some Tang Band W4-1757SB full range drivers.

My head unit is an Alpine CDA-9887.

In my 1997 Civic:

I am running one DD1508 in a 1 cubic foot net "test" enclosure tuned to 35 Hz with a 25 to Life Punch 150 that birthed @ 930 watts RMS powering it.

I have one Lunar L60x2 per door running an Alpine Type R 6.5 and a CDT TW-25 passive. IIRC each Lunar L60x2 is capable of 280 watts RMS at 4 ohms. Sadly, the Type R speaker was one of the few drop in speakers that sounded decent in the factory location. Anything else would have required extensive modification or the use of a 5.25" driver.

The HU in that vehicle is an Alpine CDA-9885.

Next on the docket for the Civic is to build an enclosure for a pair of dd1508s and power them with an older Rockford Fosgate Power 1000bd since all of my 1508s are 4 ohm SVC drivers. I also plan to build a .75 cubic foot net enclosure tuned in the 40s to dabble a little with SPL and will keep the 25 to Life Punch 150 for that.

Other things done to the Civic include 1/0 Big 3, 175 amp HO alternator, Kinetik HC1400 battery, ODB1 ECU/conversion harness with ELD programmed out, and eDead UE deadening that was given to me by a friend who crashed his competition Galant several years ago.

I am getting ready to install a system in my fiancee's Mazda Tribute that will include:

Clarion DXZ785USB

Cerwin Vega EXL-400.4 to power some Genesis Profile 16 Comps active

Orion HCCA 225 with Servo unit for a single Memphis M Class 12 at 2 ohms

Anything else you want to know?//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif