One Voice Coil Hotter than the other.

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

So I've done some tests With the level 5s and the HDC3s. I've inverted the subs so Now i can actually touch and feel the voice coil temperatures.

I pushed them a bit harder than normal and found out that one sub was still close to room temperature and the other was pretty warm borderline hot. This was consistent with both the HDC3s and the DC level 5s and alternated between the two subs and Its always the sub on the left driver side that gets heated up.

Pics of the enclosure in this thread. Subs are loading evenly and playing evenly.

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/614026-09-sienna-hdc-18s-bass-build-log.html

Subs are wired series parallel just like in the pic. Anyone know wth is going on?

Click to read more...

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

is the resistance of the wires the same to each sub? im thinking you have a loose or somewhat corroded wire on one of the subs. nothing else makes sense

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

is the resistance of the wires the same to each sub? im thinking you have a loose or somewhat corroded wire on one of the subs. nothing else makes sense

All read the same resistance. Wire is shiny new. I've used different and new wire for the DC vs the old wiring with the HDCs.

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

you've swapped the same type sub from driver to pass side and the voice coil heat changed sides? ok.. so you ruled out the subs being the cause, and it cant be the amp due to it being wired parallel. the wires and the enclosure are the only things that would fit

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

Very strange, since the port is equidistant from both subs and they're not loading differently.

I'd agree that there might be a bad connection. You should switch the wires and see if the hot sub changes or not

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

you've swapped the same type sub from driver to pass side and the voice coil heat changed sides? ok.. so you ruled out the subs being the cause, and it cant be the amp due to it being wired parallel. the wires and the enclosure are the only things that would fit

Speaking of amps. There is actually one possibility i have not considered or tested Banda only accepts one RCA and i'm only using one RCA of the two thats coming out of my 80 prs. Not sure if thats the cause, i'll have to do another test tomorrow.

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

Speaking of amps. There is actually one possibility i have not considered or tested Banda only accepts one RCA and i'm only using one RCA of the two thats coming out of my 80 prs. Not sure if thats the cause, i'll have to do another test tomorrow.

to be blunt, i have no idea how it would be the amp, the amp wouldnt be able to choose where to send the power even if you wanted it to.

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

Speaking of amps. There is actually one possibility i have not considered or tested Banda only accepts one RCA and i'm only using one RCA of the two thats coming out of my 80 prs. Not sure if thats the cause, i'll have to do another test tomorrow.

I had a banda 7k. It's a mono amp and you've got the subs in series/parallel. Only having one RCA input has nothing to do with the issue

 

[los33 10+ year member]

The sub wired closer to the end of the wire connected to the amp will be getting all the heat.

Shortening the wires and wiring each sub same distance from the main wire going to the amp would fix the issue.

Not to forget you can always double up on the wires if subs are direct connect so most of the heat stays in the wire and not the subs.

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[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

the sub thats hotter has to have the lower resistance. its getting more power. i know its kinda **** bu i always cut all my wires short as possible and all the same length.

check the resistance between the subs terminals and the end of the wire.. they should be close..

also i just looked at you build. those bolts are very inefficent i highly suggest you use copper or aluminum at the very least.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

the sub thats hotter has to have the lower resistance. its getting more power. i know its kinda **** bu i always cut all my wires short as possible and all the same length.check the resistance between the subs terminals and the end of the wire.. they should be close..

also i just looked at you build. those bolts are very inefficent i highly suggest you use copper or aluminum at the very least.

Subs are inverted and direct connected with wire. Those bolts are there for show now. One end is longer. Currently using ofc 8 gauge as speaker wire, not sure if doubling up would even help as the resistance from the leads, sub terminal and end of the wires read the same.

cant really have even distanced wire atm, that might be the issue.

 

[els1989]

the sub thats hotter has to have the lower resistance. its getting more power. i know its kinda **** bu i always cut all my wires short as possible and all the same length.check the resistance between the subs terminals and the end of the wire.. they should be close..

also i just looked at you build. those bolts are very inefficent i highly suggest you use copper or aluminum at the very least.

Where do you find copper bolts?

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[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

Where do you find copper bolts?

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[els1989]

Sarcastic fukk lol

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[los33 10+ year member]

Subs are inverted and direct connected with wire. Those bolts are there for show now. One end is longer. Currently using ofc 8 gauge as speaker wire, not sure if doubling up would even help as the resistance from the leads, sub terminal and end of the wires read the same.cant really have even distanced wire atm, that might be the issue.

Doubling up isn't to lower resistance, it is used as a way for heat dissipation.

But distance between both subs to amp does play a role.

The photo of how to wire the subs will always place all power thru one sub before it hits the next.

Where do you find copper bolts?

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Brass bolts is best for speaker terminals.

Copper would be expensive and aluminum will cause resistance.

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