One of my coils all of a sudden reads 16ohms?

[resko1 10+ year member]

Can i get a pic of the former?

These subs are notorious for problems with the stators or leads off the coil running up the former to the spiders.

Hate to tell ya but 16 ohms is not good. Means a butt load of resistance somewhere.

 

---------- Post added at 01:36 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:35 AM ----------

 

see my edit...
what is it reading exactly and what should it be?

Do the #'s chance when you push on the cone / does the sub move when you put power to that coil ?

Coil should read 3.6-3.8

all 9122's were D4's.

 

[Imtjnotu 5,000+ posts]

hmmmm idk....all i can think of is somehow the coil cooked and bad

 

[resko1 10+ year member]

hmmmm idk....all i can think of is somehow the coil cooked and bad

That's not coil cook. Its a weak lead on the former underneath the spider pack. These use a long former to accommodate the ti basket. there's leads that run from the top of the windings to where there soldered at the first spider joint. These leads get stressed very easy and was a design flaw. They read higher and higher till all of a sudden, nothing. Then the lead snapped or burnt out. sometimes you will see a little brown spot on the former through the screens.

 

[Suicide Bobb 5,000+ posts]

That's not coil cook. Its a weak lead on the former underneath the spider pack. These use a long former to accommodate the ti basket. there's leads that run from the top of the windings to where there soldered at the first spider joint. These leads get stressed very easy and was a design flaw. They read higher and higher till all of a sudden, nothing. Then the lead snapped or burnt out. sometimes you will see a little brown spot on the former through the screens.

Resko, I think you are right. You are the one who built this sub anyhow //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif maybe its the one in your sig? Idk. UMWDawg92 said you built it for him. It has a TC cone. The leads are held to the former by what seems to be jb weld its some tough ish...I don't even think my googone can tackle it!

 

[Suicide Bobb 5,000+ posts]

I did actually fix a similar issue on two woofers before. My first was my Wharfedale Mach 7's, where one of the leads zeroed out. Had to remove the dustcap to fix the connection there, and also at the terminal. My second was last night when I repaired a lead on my Punch HX2 that was reading numbers over 100. The lead frayed where it was glued to the cone and near the terminal.

I don't see any way that the coil would be bad. Definitely seems like a lead Issue to me.

 

[resko1 10+ year member]

Resko, I think you are right. You are the one who built this sub anyhow //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif maybe its the one in your sig? Idk. UMWDawg92 said you built it for him. It has a TC cone. The leads are held to the former by what seems to be jb weld its some tough ish...I don't even think my googone can tackle it!

I did actually fix a similar issue on two woofers before. My first was my Wharfedale Mach 7's, where one of the leads zeroed out. Had to remove the dustcap to fix the connection there, and also at the terminal. My second was last night when I repaired a lead on my Punch HX2 that was reading numbers over 100. The lead frayed where it was glued to the cone and near the terminal.
I don't see any way that the coil would be bad. Definitely seems like a lead Issue to me.

I didnt build it. Tc Sounds built it. Lol. Its a stock 9122 with a tc sounds decal on the cone. Iirc 2 of the stators were already repaired. You have to use a hobby knife and carefully remove the epoxy. But you have to figure out which one it is first.

 

[sobe3yourself. 10+ year member]

At least this troll is obvious. lol

maybe not. the sub might have been toooo power hungry and pulled a clipped signal from the amp since it was only 250 watts. i doubt this would be it because i am pretty sure that you know how to set your gains, but it is a possibility

 

[MONSONwarrior Premium Member]

maybe not. the sub might have been toooo power hungry and pulled a clipped signal from the amp since it was only 250 watts. i doubt this would be it because i am pretty sure that you know how to set your gains, but it is a possibility

How does this make sense? The sub only gets as much power as you give it, it won't pull your amp in clipping, the gain is just set to match the HU so you should have the same gain set for any impedance.

 

[wickedwitt 10+ year member]

maybe not. the sub might have been toooo power hungry and pulled a clipped signal from the amp since it was only 250 watts. i doubt this would be it because i am pretty sure that you know how to set your gains, but it is a possibility

Subs cannot be power hungry, they only accept the power passed through them. Subs are built as a passive means of transportation for electrical power. They do not behave like amps in which the transformers 'draw' power. They only accept (up to their thermal limitations) what is given to them.

Think of an amp and sub like a small fan. The blades are the sub and the motor is the amp. The blades of a fan do not draw any current, they only convert the energy passed to them into kinetic force. It is the motor that draws amperage and, in turn controls the speed and force of the blades. The blades only break if the motor pushes the blades past their physical limits, the blades will never draw the motor into a scenario where it goes out of control.

 

---------- Post added at 10:53 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:52 AM ----------

 

How does this make sense? The sub only gets as much power as you give it, it won't pull your amp in clipping, the gain is just set to match the HU so you should have the same gain set for any impedance.

And you just said what I said... meh I was too late.

 

[Suicide Bobb 5,000+ posts]

I didnt build it. Tc Sounds built it. Lol. Its a stock 9122 with a tc sounds decal on the cone. Iirc 2 of the stators were already repaired. You have to use a hobby knife and carefully remove the epoxy. But you have to figure out which one it is first.

Oh hah ok. Thanks!

And for everyone else...I already said it wasn't sent a clipped signal, so that's irrelevant lol. Its the lead(s)

 

[pho4metay 10+ year member]

if you ran it in your house, what did you use to power it. If you ran it off your house receiver, you fried your coil cause there would of been vocals coming out of the sub which is bad

 

[T.I.K. 10+ year member]

if you ran it in your house, what did you use to power it. If you ran it off your house receiver, you fried your coil cause there would of been vocals coming out of the sub which is bad

Pretty sure low pass filters aren't unique to car amps................

 

[Phoenix Risen 10+ year member]

if you ran it in your house, what did you use to power it. If you ran it off your house receiver, you fried your coil cause there would of been vocals coming out of the sub which is bad

did you not read any thing that resko said?

thats not always true either, depending on the unit there are crossovers for subs.

 

[Ge_off_me 5,000+ posts]

if you ran it in your house, what did you use to power it. If you ran it off your house receiver, you fried your coil cause there would of been vocals coming out of the sub which is bad

fail!!!!!!

 

[Suicide Bobb 5,000+ posts]

if you ran it in your house, what did you use to power it. If you ran it off your house receiver, you fried your coil cause there would of been vocals coming out of the sub which is bad

First off, that is not true.

Secondly, no. It was ran off a 270 watt rms M&K subwoofer plate amp, lowpassed at 80hz, sending non-clipped power to the sub.