Old School Soundstream Repair

[ace956]

Hey guys,

I designed and my manufactured all off the old school Soundstream car amplifiers. I have all parts in stock including most original custom hardware. I can repair, rebuild/upgrade all amplifiers. I can also convert most models from class AB to Class A operation. You can contact me directly at: wade@acelabsaudio.com Contact me and I can give you a better explanation of what each operation consists of. If you let me know which model(s) you would lie me to work on I can give you a quote. If you would like to speak with me please feel free to call me at: home: 916 294 7967 or Cell 916 365 6979.

Thanks,

Wade Stewart

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[ciaonzo 5,000+ posts]

Hi Wade. The site has died off a bit but surely there must be some folks who are still running these classics. I am proud to say I cut my teeth on the Reference 300 and very quickly ramped up to the 500, 604, and 705. I loved every single minute of those amplifiers so thank you for what you did to improve the auto sound industry. We are lucky to be graced by your presence.

Assuming an amplifier is already running perfectly, what is the ballpark cost to convert to full class A? And are we talking true class A or a very high bias class A/B? I imagine the heatsink would be the limiting factor in some of those cases, for their ability to dissipate the heat generated by that mode of operation.

 

[akheathen Premium Member]

i would never mod an a/b soundstream to a class a, or high bias. here is why: a 1000watt rms ab has power fets that are rated to support less than 900 continuous, and an output section capable of over 2k.... so, if you go class a, you have to subtract the bias power from the musical power.... so, after figuring the bias power, and an output stage built to react differently, you will end up spending 600 to turn a 1k into a 200, that will likely blow the power section. if you want a class a, buy a class a. they are built differently..... if you want to upgrade one of those ab with a beefier power supply, that's a much better option, and you can go higher bias on that, with the same class a performance.

 

[N2fastuff]

Wade,]I have a smokestream 700sx...which was killer @ 2ohm mono on my .65 cu ft sealed CDT QES1220d4....until it quit about 3 months ago. Found a 10w/1ohm ceramic square resistor loose from board,replaced, but still a no-go for power up.

So,question is...can u repair, and make necessary refinements for it to work and live in my daily driver? All I "need" is 500 rms to run the CDT. I don't want to spend more than it's worth on repair.

I also have a Ref 604 in my car now, that works well, but doesn't have quite the balls I need (Like 150-225rms) on my 150 Mrs CDT & FOCAL drivers. I may send it in also for a refurbished, before letting it go to get something stronger....but God I love my soundstream stuff!

William Moore

 

[The_DriZZle]

Let me start off by saying that my granite series amp, on my spl 10, in my ford bronco 2 back in the day hammered so freakin hard! and my reference 405s that i put in a few of my cars was INCREDIBLE in sound quality and output. I have been a soundstream fan since the early 90's. I have a van gogh 800.2 that needs a repair.