Official CarAudio.com Big 3 Thread

Ive done alt to battery, battery to audio, but not the chassis to ground. I was wondering if it would be best to ground from the alt chassis to the battery. This is because i remember hearing the chassis is really only = to 4 awg and either way with a wire or without, there is resistance.

 
Ive done alt to battery, battery to audio, but not the chassis to ground. I was wondering if it would be best to ground from the alt chassis to the battery. This is because i remember hearing the chassis is really only = to 4 awg and either way with a wire or without, there is resistance.
Your alt is already grounded through the engine block.

The ground points that everyone is using have resulted the greatest results vs other points.

 
sorry for the ignorance, but I am learning...what is the exact name for this...

03.jpg


thanks

 
If you wanted to be super-ghetto-fabulous you could.

You don't have to buy one with built in fuses. It just makes everything neater under the hood. You do need an aftermarket terminal though to fit the new wires you just added.

 
If you wanted to be super-ghetto-fabulous you could.
You don't have to buy one with built in fuses. It just makes everything neater under the hood. You do need an aftermarket terminal though to fit the new wires you just added.
Wait so you're saying I DO need the after market battery terminal but I just don't need the fuse? If I have the fuse does that mean I don't need an inline fuse on the power wire? What happens if no battery terminal? And using a battery terminal doesn't that mean there's no use for the ring terminals?

 
Wait so you're saying I DO need the after market battery terminal but I just don't need the fuse? If I have the fuse does that mean I don't need an inline fuse on the power wire? What happens if no battery terminal? And using a battery terminal doesn't that mean there's no use for the ring terminals?

again, depends on the type of terminal you get. You stock one probably isn't going to get the job done is what I was saying. You still need a fuse on your main power line to the amps and the alternator positive to battery positive. You just don't need it built into the terminal.

 
again, depends on the type of terminal you get. You stock one probably isn't going to get the job done is what I was saying. You still need a fuse on your main power line to the amps and the alternator positive to battery positive. You just don't need it built into the terminal.
Ohh okay, I'll probably just pick up a pair of battery terminals too..in which case I won't need those power wire terminals because I stick the power wire straight into the battery terminal right? Also, so if you get a fuse on the terminal does that take care (so you won't need) an inline fuse near the battery on the power wire running to the amps?

 
Just did the big 3 on my 2001 Saturn L200... Unfortunatly it did not erradicate my Dimming woes. The dim only occurs for a split second when the bass hits, which leads me to believe that the Alternator CAN handle the power, it just takes that split second to kick in, perhaps the volage regulator on the alternato. Anywho, I'm bummed out that it didn't solve my problem...

 
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