# of ports

[ruger 10+ year member]

currently building a new box for a 10" type r, its

14W x 11.25H x 25.25D 1.65cu after sub displacment.

(external ports) parts express ports

2 4" ports 17"long would be 47hz with both ports open and 33hz with one port plugged

or would it be any better to just use one 4" port 29" long @ 26hz

Question is would that much port area, using 2, 4" ports be a little to much air moving and create alot of port noise becuse of such a small box size?

any help would be great! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/veryhappy.gif.fec4fed33b4a1279cf10bdd45a039dae.gif

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[xluben 10+ year member]

currently building a new box for a 10" type r, its
14W x 11.25H x 25.25D 1.65cu after sub displacment.

(external ports) parts express ports

2 4" ports 17"long would be 47hz with both ports open and 33hz with one port plugged

or would it be any better to just use one 4" port 29" long @ 26hz

Question is would that much port area, using 2, 4" ports be a little to much air moving and create alot of port noise becuse of such a small box size?

any help would be great! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/veryhappy.gif.fec4fed33b4a1279cf10bdd45a039dae.gif

you have it totally backwards.

smaller ports (or less ports) = higher port air velocity, which results in port noise

the setup with two 4" ports is probably the only one that wouldn't have port noise.

you'll need two, longer, 4" ports to tune lower.

 

[Big Dee 10+ year member]

Don't discount using two 3" ports. It would be better than using a single 4" and would require shorter lenghts than two 4 inchers.

Liek xluben said, the more vent area you have the slower the air movement = lower port noise.

 

[ruger 10+ year member]

ok thanks for all the info.

i guess ill go with the 2, 4" ports, cause i already have them.

 

[xluben 10+ year member]

sounds good!

you'll probably have to make the box bigger to account for the longer ports (unless you can do 90 degree bends), and also more port displacement.

 

[ruger 10+ year member]

sounds good!
you'll probably have to make the box bigger to account for the longer ports (unless you can do 90 degree bends), and also more port displacement.

well everything is still drying atm

guess ill put the ports here, got that last portflare hiding i gotta search.

and the speaker on the end

just bought a router today and a sander. my last box 2 weeks ago took 4 hours of hand sanding:crap: this box is bigger and took 3 min for all 6 sides //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

 

[Worlddre 5,000+ posts]

is that baltic birch ply?

 

[ruger 10+ year member]

yea its the precut one at HD its around $10 and change.

you know i think it would have been a lil better to put the clamps closer to the center of the box, to keep the center from bowwing a little now that i look at it.

keep learning new stuff everytime i build. =)

 

[Worlddre 5,000+ posts]

looks good man

 

[xluben 10+ year member]

looks great, didn't realize you were going with the external ports, i guess no re-calculation is needed!

 

[Big Dee 10+ year member]

Two thumbs up for not using any screws or nails!!

Nice looking wood you got there. Are you gonna stain it?

 

[ruger 10+ year member]

yes here is the box i made last week 10". square 4.5cu. for a mpyre 6.5" sub sealed no screwes and stained. cut the sides .75 shorter and overlaped each side also.

learned a few things like not to overglue.

http://forum.realmofexcursion.com/showthread.php?t=11436

 

[ruger 10+ year member]

ok finished it up.

front and back boards, double baffle, sub and port holes,

sanded, stained and painted the edges black for a "burt look".