NSTALN's Rogue TOTALED...but got a new truck!!!

[NSTALN 10+ year member]

Lady ran a stop sign and killed my Nissan Rogue...

Progressive Insurance got the settlement within a week...which allowed me to pick up this new buggy:

I was able to salvage all my audio equipment with the exception of the Audiofrog GS693's which were in the doors.

BIG planz for the new truck....stay tuned...//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/naughty.gif.94359f346c0f1259df8038d60b41863e.gif

Click to read more...

 

[ciaonzo 5,000+ posts]

Nice rig! Hopefully you're in one piece?

 

[NSTALN 10+ year member]

Nice rig! Hopefully you're in one piece?

Doctors say they have to amputate everything from the neck down....so I should be fine.

 

[NSTALN 10+ year member]

Quick question...the plan at the moment is to run a pair of MASS 12's sealed and down-firing...are the MASS drivers OK to mount down-firing? Will it cause any long term sag issues?

 

[ciaonzo 5,000+ posts]

Quick question...the plan at the moment is to run a pair of MASS 12's sealed and down-firing...are the MASS drivers OK to mount down-firing? Will it cause any long term sag issues?

The suspension is definitely one of the softer suspension builds from TC so it's worth considering. I have to maintain the stuff I have stored away by turning it once in a while, alternating between up and down storage to combat the sag. Planning to build some baffles that will allow me to store everything on it's side so that I can forget all about that issue.
Take a look at the current sag. If you have any downward sag, I would go for it. But as you stroke them bishes over the long term, they will end up sagging no matter what.

 

[NSTALN 10+ year member]

The suspension is definitely one of the softer suspension builds from TC so it's worth considering. I have to maintain the stuff I have stored away by turning it once in a while, alternating between up and down storage to combat the sag. Planning to build some baffles that will allow me to store everything on it's side so that I can forget all about that issue.
Take a look at the current sag. If you have any downward sag, I would go for it. But as you stroke them bishes over the long term, they will end up sagging no matter what.

Thanks...another question...what's your method for cleaning the rear end of these motors? I've seen the ones you've cleaned up and they look fantastic...there is a real possibility that the new install will reveal the asses of the 12's and I'll want to make them shiny. Thanks.

 

[ciaonzo 5,000+ posts]

Citristrip stripping gel & Mother's mag & aluminum polish.

I always start with the Citristrip stripping gel to remove any old clearcoat. Then determine how much work you may need to do with steel wool to rid the metal of other unsightly issues. Try not to make any deep scores, keep it light and repetitive. Get it nice and consitent, then start working with the Mother's and some new polishing rags.

Pro tip that will save you some elbow grease; Lay a folded towel on the floor and place a polishing rag or soft Tshirt over that. Actaully, two sets of these, an initial to gather metal buildup (good for doing the actual polishing work and knocking down the irregularities) and a second as a sort of "rinse" for an additional polish stage that sort of cleans up residue. After you apply the polish and work it into a black paste, hold the driver by the frame and stand over it while you twist it back and forth on the polish rag/Tshirt, maintaining a true center axis for the motor. It will keep the polish action in a circular motion. Just keep doing this over and over until you have the results you're after. Also, keep using the same rag to apply the polish.

If you plan to expose this to the elements where it will experience condensation, you may consider applying a nice clearcoat over your beautiful polish job. And don't touch the metal afterwards, fingerprints will etch into the raw metal.

 

[NSTALN 10+ year member]

Citristrip stripping gel & Mother's mag & aluminum polish.
I always start with the Citristrip stripping gel to remove any old clearcoat. Then determine how much work you may need to do with steel wool to rid the metal of other unsightly issues. Try not to make any deep scores, keep it light and repetitive. Get it nice and consitent, then start working with the Mother's and some new polishing rags.

Pro tip that will save you some elbow grease; Lay a folded towel on the floor and place a polishing rag or soft Tshirt over that. Actaully, two sets of these, an initial to gather metal buildup (good for doing the actual polishing work and knocking down the irregularities) and a second as a sort of "rinse" for an additional polish stage that sort of cleans up residue. After you apply the polish and work it into a black paste, hold the driver by the frame and stand over it while you twist it back and forth on the polish rag/Tshirt, maintaining a true center axis for the motor. It will keep the polish action in a circular motion. Just keep doing this over and over until you have the results you're after. Also, keep using the same rag to apply the polish.

If you plan to expose this to the elements where it will experience condensation, you may consider applying a nice clearcoat over your beautiful polish job. And don't touch the metal afterwards, fingerprints will etch into the raw metal.

Muchos gracias!