new subs?

deano17
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Hey, I have a 98 buick park avenue with a stock speaker system and a pioneer DEH-P3900MP. I'm looking to upgrade the front speakers and add subs. Right now I'm focusing on the subs since I have it figured out mostly.

I'm getting a sealed dual 12 box from a friend for $25. Seems to be a decent box and he has one of the loudest systems in school. So the enclosure is taken care of.

The next thing is the subs I'm going to get. I have a few choices but I thought i'd get the opinion of experts before paying money for subs that I won't be happy with.

The subs I have picked out are:

-Kenwood KFC-W3011(1200W 4-Ohm SVC)

-Sony XS-L123P5B(1300W 4-Ohm SVC)

-Pioneer TS-W307D4(1200W 4-Ohm DVC)

-Pioneer Premier TS-W1207D4(1200W 4-Ohm DVC)

-Pioneer TS-W301R(800W 4-Ohm SVC)

I don't know what amp i'll get but trying not to spend more than $150 on the amp

For the subs I am partial to the Kenwoods since I have heard them and think they sound pretty nice. The sony's I have also listened to but they didn't sound as good as the kenwoods to me.

I am more into sound quality but I would also like to have some thump in my car.

Any information or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!

 
i don't know the dimensions of the box. i just know its looks like most other dual 12 boxes. as for the amp i'm not sure. i still don't know which amps are good and which aren't. i'm still new to this stuff. i've been reading up on it but i don't have everything down yet. those subs i listed are in my price range and the kenwoods did sound good. to me at least. i'm not looking to shake the earth. but if there are better choices for $65 or under per sub then let me know. I don't have much to spend on car audio so i'm working with what i can. thanks

 
find out how much room u got

the box is more important then the subs

and how much for the amp

also spend a lil more for the subs and be happy for years not months

good car audio costs money

u cant get around it

 
for front speakers, amps, wiring, box, and subs i have about $500. the park avenue trunk is fairly large but i'd rather not use up all of the room so i still have some trunk space. my thoughts were $300 for the subs, wiring, box and amp to power them and then $200 for amp, wiring and front speakers. I have a 5.25" speaker in each door and a tweeter up top. i don't know if its a component system. i was just gonna replace the 5.25 with a 3 way coaxial and add an amp.

 
read this

How To Design Your High Output Sub Enclosure

We don’t believe in the tiny sub box theory. If you are looking for tiny sound, get a tiny sub and put it in a tiny box. Be happy. If you are looking for real bass, you need to have a real box.

In order to get true high performance, you have to make the most of the available airspace you have. To do otherwise is wasting your time, energy and money. Don’t try to fit a larger speaker in a box that is better suited for the next size down. Our subs all have the same amount of throw, the same force available, and the smaller sub in the right space will outperform the larger sub in too small an airspace.

The first step in getting major bass in your vehicle is to allocate the space for your enclosure. If you really want to flex some sheet metal, the old adage applies, “there is no substitute for cubic inches”. The more space you make available, the higher the potential spl.

You don’t have to use a large amount of enclosure space to make a loud system; loud can be done with a single Audioque sub. The amount of loud needs to be determined as you figure out what space you plan to give up. Really loud bass, where you have to scream at your passengers, can be done on a single or double woofer setup. Stupid loud bass, where there is no point in trying to communicate in the vehicle, takes more space and bigger/more subs. F@#$ing crazy loud bass, where it is impossible for the car next to you to communicate inside his vehicle, takes even more space, even more subs and a gazillion watts of power.

A few tips on what to pay attention to when determining the box shape:

If you plan to use a rear firing setup in a trunk car, make sure your box doesn’t seal off the trunk from the passenger compartment. You need to leave some space for the waves to pass back into the interior of the car. Either make the box as low as possible so the wave passes over the box and enters the cabin via the seatback and rear deck, or reduce the width of the box so the wave can pass to the side and into the car’s interior. A big, giant box may make your trunk extremely loud, but all you’ll hear is muffled rattle if the box takes up the whole space behind the rear seat and under the rear deck.

If you have a hatchback car, keep the box as far back in the vehicle as possible.

 
my goal is not to have an expensive loud system. basically i want to cut the distortion in the front speakers and use subs for bass instead of my hollow sounding 6x9's in the rear.

 
cutting the distortion in the front speakers has nothing to do with a sub setup

u need to get a good cd player and get rid of the 6x9's

get a component set and some nice subs

adjust properly

thats how u get good sound

 
i think i'm going to have to save up some more money then. maybe a single 12 would be a better idea? right now my 6x9's handle the bass, and i just need a little more than they put out. plus they also sound hollow. those kenwoods would fix that no problem and i don't need really nice subs. as for the front speakers, they need to be a little louder and have lesser distortion. so maybe a new speaker set and small amp would fix that. doing all of that would be within my budget and make me happy with the sound.

would that work? i might even be able to forget the subs for now and get nicer 6x9s and a 4 channel amp. i'm open to suggestions. the only thing i can't do is spend a ton of money.

 
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deano17

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