New amp blowing fuse

[johnrhance 10+ year member]

I just bought a Kenwood KAC 7202 2 channel amp. I had it working a little while ago, but I had to take my subs out to work on the box (subs are 2 rockford fosgate P2 10"s). I put everything back in, but now when I turn my head unit on, the red light on the amp flashes and the subs pulse rapidly. I disconnected one of the subs and tried again. That time, the light and pulse was even more rapid for about 5 seconds, then it blew the 40 amp fuse on the amp. I'm a rookie at this, so if you can please help me. Thanks a lot.

Here's what I'm using in case it helps:

Vehicle - 1996 Ford Ranger XLT extended cab

Head unit - Sony CDX-GT61UI

speakers - four stock Ranger 6x8s running on head unit power at the moment

amp - Kenwood KAC-7202 920w max 2 channel

subs - two Rockford Fosgate 10" Punches, I think they are 200w rms, 400 or 500w peak at 8 ohms.

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[01 S 10 10+ year member]

you re-connected everything exactly like it was? you might want to go double check

 

[johnrhance 10+ year member]

Everything is just like it was before I took it apart. What would cause the amp to do that? I thought perhaps a bad ground, but the cable runs right from the bolt to the amp, and that has always worked in the past. I looked through the owner's manual, but it doesn't have a troubleshooting section or even mention the flashing power light.

 

[johnrhance 10+ year member]

I just went out and re-checked everything. The power wire is fine and the fuse isn't blown (it's a 40 amp too). I had to replace it today and that's actually when my problems started with the flashing light. The ground is tight on the bolt and looks fine. I pulled out the deck and checked all my wiring. Everything looks fine. Is my amp just broken?

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

disconnect everything that goes to the amp as well as the + terminal on your battery. then reconnect everything

 

[01 S 10 10+ year member]

I had an in-line fuse holder that got corroded(sp) and was not making a good connection. It could be something like that. Do you have a buddy that is more familiar with audio around you? its easier to diagnose this shit if you have somebody actually there to help you.

 

[johnrhance 10+ year member]

I was out there messing with it again and it still doesn't work. I hooked up my old amp (some no name 400w 4 channel) to the same connections, and it works fine. Even pushes both subs. I guess that leaves only the amp //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif I just don't know what happened to it. It was working fine 3 hours ago, then I take it out and put it back it and it's broke.

 

[01 S 10 10+ year member]

I was out there messing with it again and it still doesn't work. I hooked up my old amp (some no name 400w 4 channel) to the same connections, and it works fine. Even pushes both subs. I guess that leaves only the amp //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif I just don't know what happened to it. It was working fine 3 hours ago, then I take it out and put it back it and it's broke.

did you buy it local? under warranty? very usual unless it was knocked, bumped, dropped when you took it out and maybe messed up something on the inside. the + wire is in the + of the amp right? and same for the - ? simple mistake.

 

[thegreatestpenn 5,000+ posts]

hook everything up to the kenwood amp and then read the voltage with a multimeter at the power/ground on the amp. See if its 12.5V or higher

 

[johnrhance 10+ year member]

I bought it from a guy on Craigslist earlier today :/ I have been very gentle with it since I got it from him. It looks like he took very good care of it. He still had the original box and paperwork and he said he had it professionally installed. What do you mean by the + and - wires? Are you talking about the power and ground or what? I do appreciate the help though, guys.

 

[johnrhance 10+ year member]

I don't have a multimeter, but I suppose I could buy one. Would Wal-Mart carry one? If not I can go tomorrow and pick one up, just name a place that would carry it.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

btw you might check the ohms your running to that amp. maybe the impedance is too low and it doing that. idk if that's it, but its worth a try

 

[johnrhance 10+ year member]

I don't know how to check the ohms running to the amp. I've been reading on a few other forums about this issue with a ticking noise and flashing power light. Most people were saying that the amp is fried or just broken internally. I think it's either broken (obviously) or it somehow isn't getting enough power.

 

[95BlackGA 5,000+ posts]

I don't know how to check the ohms running to the amp. I've been reading on a few other forums about this issue with a ticking noise and flashing power light. Most people were saying that the amp is fried or just broken internally. I think it's either broken (obviously) or it somehow isn't getting enough power.

What are the exact models of the subs, and how are they wired? If you have 2 10" Punch P2 SVC 4ohm woofers, you can't run this amp bridged. If you have 2 DVC 4ohm woofers, you can run this bridged, but they must be wired in series/parallel, or you would be running a load too low for the amplifier.

 

[johnrhance 10+ year member]

On the subs, it said 8ohm. I know they are 10" Rockford Fosgate P2 200w rms single voice coil. If I have to, I can pull one from the box and read the model numbers to you all. I didn't have them bridged btw.