Neighbor gave me some peel n seal.

It was worth every penny you paid //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

P&S does have a tendency to come off, in some cases...make sure you use a heat gun when applying it.

Using as many layers as will fit is never a bad idea.

 
And make sure where ever your applying it is as clean as humanly possible //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
A Street Division competitor may use 2 layers of damping material on the inside sheet metal of his roof. However, the competitor may not use 2 layers of damping material on his roof and another 2 layers on the backside of his fiberboard headliner because this would result in a total of 4 layers of damping material in this location.


A Street Division competitor may use 1 layer of damping material on the inside sheet metal of his door and another layer of damping material on the backside of his door panel because 2 layers of damping material are allowed at any given location. On the other hand, the competitor may not use 2 layers of damping material on the inside sheet metal of the door and another 2 layers of damping material on the backside of the door panel because this would result in a total of 4 layers in the door location which is prohibited.
Just think about that for if you ever plan on competing in DBdrag.

 
Well, I deadened one of the doors. I only put on one layer because I have something to do in a few.

I dont think the pics really need to be up here, because I dont think I did to good of a job. But since youre all such nice people.

Here they are





Dont forget. I am going over it with another layer. lol

 
Don't forget the outer door skin...

I don't know how serious you're going to be about this, but check out the sticky in the Speakers section; "Proper Deadening & You"...contains good info about building baffles and using clay to decouple the speakers from the door, and filling up those big holes that are costing you midbass response.

I sealed up my doors with Lexan, used MDF and modelling clay around my speakers, and the midbass response improved dramatically.

 
Don't forget the outer door skin...
I don't know how serious you're going to be about this, but check out the sticky in the Speakers section; "Proper Deadening & You"...contains good info about building baffles and using clay to decouple the speakers from the door, and filling up those big holes that are costing you midbass response.

I sealed up my doors with Lexan, used MDF and modelling clay around my speakers, and the midbass response improved dramatically.
I am going to do alot more to the doors. Then I will need some more material because I am going to run out on the other door.

I would have covered alot better if I didnt have to go somewhere.

 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Old Thread: Please note, there have been no replies in this thread for over 3 years!
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.

About this thread

supraman1379

10+ year member
Lifted 03 HEMI
Thread starter
supraman1379
Joined
Location
Ocala, Fl
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
18
Views
1,267
Last reply date
Last reply from
Sleeklsc
IMG_20260516_193114554_HDR.jpg

sherbanater

    May 16, 2026
  • 0
  • 0
IMG_20260516_192955471_HDR.jpg

sherbanater

    May 16, 2026
  • 0
  • 0

New threads

Top