Neighbor gave me some peel n seal.

[supraman1379 10+ year member]

Like I said, the neighbor gave me some peel n seal. But I wanted to know if it peels off if it gets too hot?

It was free so I dont really have anything to lose but time.

Click to read more...

 

[supraman1379 10+ year member]

And its thin as shit too. Should I double or triple layer it?

 

[JimJ 5,000+ posts]

It was worth every penny you paid //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

P&S does have a tendency to come off, in some cases...make sure you use a heat gun when applying it.

Using as many layers as will fit is never a bad idea.

 

[supraman1379 10+ year member]

Alright. Im new when it comes to sound deadening. LOL. But is there a such things as too much sound deadening.

 

[ramos 5,000+ posts]

And make sure where ever your applying it is as clean as humanly possible //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[zachzchw 5,000+ posts]

Id just use that on the floor, where it wont have to fight with gravity.

Same thing as edead. Search the forum, youll find out about peel n seal, or look at

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com

 

[supraman1379 10+ year member]

Alright thanks. But I am not goin to deaden the floor. Not yet. LOL. Thats too much work

 

[supraman1379 10+ year member]

I am going to do the doors first. Then I will do the rear wall in the cab. and go from there. Because I dont know how far all this will go.

 

[forceofwill 10+ year member]

A Street Division competitor may use 2 layers of damping material on the inside sheet metal of his roof. However, the competitor may not use 2 layers of damping material on his roof and another 2 layers on the backside of his fiberboard headliner because this would result in a total of 4 layers of damping material in this location.


A Street Division competitor may use 1 layer of damping material on the inside sheet metal of his door and another layer of damping material on the backside of his door panel because 2 layers of damping material are allowed at any given location. On the other hand, the competitor may not use 2 layers of damping material on the inside sheet metal of the door and another 2 layers of damping material on the backside of the door panel because this would result in a total of 4 layers in the door location which is prohibited.

Just think about that for if you ever plan on competing in DBdrag.

 

[supraman1379 10+ year member]

I think I can deal with that. I just get tired of hearing some of the rattle I have too. Its not bad, but it is still annoying.

 

[mtdewelf 10+ year member]

Id just use that on the floor, where it wont have to fight with gravity. Same thing as edead.

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com

X2, but since it's a truck the doors will stick fine. just stay away from headliner with it.

 

[supraman1379 10+ year member]

X2, but since it's a truck the doors will stick fine. just stay away from headliner with it.

Alright ill stay away from the headliner. If I want to do it later should I get something else?

 

[supraman1379 10+ year member]

Well, I deadened one of the doors. I only put on one layer because I have something to do in a few.

I dont think the pics really need to be up here, because I dont think I did to good of a job. But since youre all such nice people.

Here they are





Dont forget. I am going over it with another layer. lol

 

[JimJ 5,000+ posts]

Don't forget the outer door skin...

I don't know how serious you're going to be about this, but check out the sticky in the Speakers section; "Proper Deadening & You"...contains good info about building baffles and using clay to decouple the speakers from the door, and filling up those big holes that are costing you midbass response.

I sealed up my doors with Lexan, used MDF and modelling clay around my speakers, and the midbass response improved dramatically.

 

[supraman1379 10+ year member]

Don't forget the outer door skin...
I don't know how serious you're going to be about this, but check out the sticky in the Speakers section; "Proper Deadening & You"...contains good info about building baffles and using clay to decouple the speakers from the door, and filling up those big holes that are costing you midbass response.

I sealed up my doors with Lexan, used MDF and modelling clay around my speakers, and the midbass response improved dramatically.

I am going to do alot more to the doors. Then I will need some more material because I am going to run out on the other door.

I would have covered alot better if I didnt have to go somewhere.