Need Dist Block - Two 0-gauge in, one 0- and one 4-gauge out

[Ramblin 10+ year member]

Guys I've looked and search to no avail. I'm looking for a non-fused distribution block that will give me two 0-gauge inputs, and on the outputs I need one 0-gauge and one 4-gauge. If you know where I can get one, can you shoot me a link? Thanks. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/veryhappy.gif.fec4fed33b4a1279cf10bdd45a039dae.gif

Keith

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[QuikSilverRS91 10+ year member]

Interesting product to look for. Why are you trying to run this type of setup? It seems like you could save some money and just run 1 0awg strand and 1 4awg stand.

 

[Ramblin 10+ year member]

Maybe that's where I'm going wrong. I have a 0-gauge wire coming from the cranking battery in the engine compartment. I'm adding an HC2400 at the back of the vehicle, and need to run a 0-gauge wire from it into the distribution block. So I need two 0-gauge in's. I'm running a Hifonics XX Zeus that requires a 0-gauge output, and running a RF P850.4 that requires a 4-gauge output. That's how I'm coming up with two 0 inputs and a 0 & 4 output. Is there another way? I'm a self-confessed noob, so all advice is welcome.

Keith

 

[QuikSilverRS91 10+ year member]

I'm not an expert at the tricks for adding additional batteries, but what I would do in this situation would be run 0awg from the HC2400 to the cranking battery and then a 0awg and 4awg run out of either battery to the respective amps.

 

[Ramblin 10+ year member]

Thanks, Quiksilver. Any other thoughts, anyone? I've done a lot of reading in this forum, and studied at BCAE1.com. There seem to be a lot of opinions, and even some myths about how to add extra batteries. I was going to follow the BCAE1.com recommendation of running fused 0-gauge from the extra battery to the distribution block, and running the negative ground to the frame. The battery will be installed in a custom box underneath my son's 2000 lifted Silverado. There is no place for the battery in the cab. Running zero gauge back to the engine-bay battery solves the problem of having to run the 0-gauge positive back through a (created) grommeted hole in the cab. It eliminates the risk of the hot cable shorting if the grommets and unsulation are worn through by vibration.

But I have also read in numerous threads that the fused positive wire from the extra battery needs to be as short as possible to the amps. Any help is appreciated.

Keith

 

[outsideshot23 10+ year member]

ya.. just run wire from your kinetik to alternator.. then run all the power wires you need off of the kinetik... no need for all those crazy distros.. good luck