*MY NEW TOY* (r/c fans)

thats ur guys tuning if its sluggish in the low end ha, even the original stock .211 bb worst engine i have ever run that came with the savages in like 02 maybe could lift the frotn end up a bit, not much tho ha

fun hobby though mad expensive

i got a mugen mbx5 prospec, 3 savages, gs storm buggy, had a tmax, had a couple onroad cars,

tmaxx is terrible though i hate small blocks and tyhe way they attach the frotn and rear bulkheads to the main chassi. they might of revised it but i doubt it the screws always rip otu of the plastic bulkheads or the alum ones bend taking big jumps just be careful fixing them isnt cheap

if its ur first truck take it easy ur gonna break everything, including the engine so i wouldnt get too discouraged when you blow it up

lucky its only a trx engine nothign special rebuilds arent pricey but they rev pretty high and wear out fairly quick.



track i used to race at in the off season just dickin around

 
why on earth did you chose the T Maxx over a Revo? If it was a money issue, I understand, but Revo is twice (maybe 3X) the truck a T Maxx is!

That said.. While breaking it in, and every time afterwards.. When you shut it down to let it cool, always make sure the piston is at BDC so the sleeve is allowed to properly contract. As for after run oil.. I have raced nitro for several years and have never used it. Only thing I do when I put it waway is run it completley out of fuel on the last run of the day.

You may want to pick up a failsafe to prevent run away nitro truck syndrome!

 
failsafe makes it so when truck loses radio frequency by either being out of range or bats dying, the brakes will lock and ur truck wont go WOT and run away from you till it hits somethign or runs out of gas

i have had it happen at that trrack to me sicne the failsafe was givving me issues when running with 20 different radio frequencies in the air, buggy whent so far into a shed ha

breaks are going to always happen in this hobby if you dont have the money sell the truck wile its new u can make more money back these things are bigger money pits than audio i think

 
good explinaytion on the failsafe. Its more or less a $20 insurance policy. A throttle return spring is a good idea in case of COMPLETE power loss to the receiver. These things are FAST, and will leave a mark on whatever they hit if moving WOT out of control.

For good prices on parts.. Check out eGhey. People run "chop shops" on them.. They buy a complete truck and sell it piece by piece. Its a GREAT way to accumulate spares. And if you are savvy enough, make some money doing it yourself (I did it for a while)

As for ditching the EZ start in leiu of a pull starter.. Nothing will make you HATE nitro RC more than a pull start on an improperly tuned motor. Stick with the EZ start, then when you are confident on tuning these little animals, then consider a pull start.

 
good explinaytion on the failsafe. Its more or less a $20 insurance policy. A throttle return spring is a good idea in case of COMPLETE power loss to the receiver. These things are FAST, and will leave a mark on whatever they hit if moving WOT out of control.
For good prices on parts.. Check out eGhey. People run "chop shops" on them.. They buy a complete truck and sell it piece by piece. Its a GREAT way to accumulate spares. And if you are savvy enough, make some money doing it yourself (I did it for a while)

As for ditching the EZ start in leiu of a pull starter.. Nothing will make you HATE nitro RC more than a pull start on an improperly tuned motor. Stick with the EZ start, then when you are confident on tuning these little animals, then consider a pull start.
x2!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 
ya if you dont know what you are doing stay with the EZ, you will just break the pull starts

they can be fixed but a pain in the *** and new ones are 25 bucks

if you ever decide to get into the hobby more and go with other truck design you can also geta bump box and better race spec engines without pullstarts on them, best way

 
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