Mt blew

you must have not read the post in the thread...
he has 1 MT with a new recone from Fi.. his second MT which had origianl parts from RE blew. so his better option would be to go back to Fi and get a new recone for his second MT and run 2 hybrid MTs with Fi soft parts....

as for the op, that sucks about your install.. learning how to setup you equipment is easy. just do some research on the forum and ask a few questions(search before you ask) and doing the installation will be a sinch.

good luck man.
team psi can also custom build to what you want. scott is a great guy & builds a awesome sub but is very busy now. you may be able to get soft parts quicker from team psi.

 
he told me that they wouldnt have a big enough fuse for two 2500ds
So, Chris Norris decided since he didn't have big enough fuses, that none were necessary? Chris Norris really told you that? And you bought that story?
Again this whole thing seems fishy. Chris Norris would definitely know better. You should have too.

 
So, Chris Norris decided since he didn't have big enough fuses, that none were necessary? Chris Norris really told you that? And you bought that story?
Again this whole thing seems fishy. Chris Norris would definitely know better. You should have too.
if this is a strictly spl system it is better with no fuses. most of the ppl i compete with do not run fuses. if it is a daily system then yes it is a big no no to not run fuses.

 
im not having much luck at all. i had everything installed by CN sounds in fort wayne. Chris Norris is suppost to be 5 time world champion for db races and the box i had him build for $350 pretty much fell apart and when he wired everything he just ran a positive from the alt. to the other batts and then a ground from the engine block back and there are no fuses at all. i need to learn how to install my own stuff but this is my first audio system and i dont know how to do anything yet
did the box get wet?

no reason for it to fall apart

i remember you from when he built that box

 
yeah guys i dont know how to set my own stuff up yet so i just thought that he was doing the best he could. and my box came apart becasue it was poorly built. he used liquid names and brad nail. but everytime the bass would hit the whole port would rattle and it just started coming apart.

 
that is why i like using gorilla glue. gorilla glue ftw. you can probably take the subs out, squirt water on all the joints inside the box, & then put gorilla glue on all the joints. this may help. or talk to chris. he may warranty his work. if i have a box i built come apart(not by water) i will always fix the box.

 
that is why i like using gorilla glue. gorilla glue ftw. you can probably take the subs out, squirt water on all the joints inside the box, & then put gorilla glue on all the joints. this may help. or talk to chris. he may warranty his work. if i have a box i built come apart(not by water) i will always fix the box.
Two problems with gorilla glue. One, it wasn't made specifically for wood like titebond etc. Second, gorilla glue expands, which you do not want when trying to secure two pieces of wood together on edge. It would work *accepotably* as a way of filling in gaps after the assembly is complete (as you are suggesting the OP do), but even for that task something like silicone would tend to work better. IMO gorilla glue really has no good uses when building a speaker box.
Everyone says the glue does all the holding, but I really dislike using a brad nailer for assembling a box in any sort of high powered application. When done correctly, screws do add strength.

 
i have been building boxes 20+ years. i have used wood glue, i have used tite bond, i have used liquid nails, & used wood glue w/ silicone & none of them will hold like gorilla glue. they have all failed at one time or another but the gorilla glue so far has not. it works very well with t nails. it does not make the joint seperate.

 
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