Mono amp or standard 2 channel bridged for sub?

[kingsxman 10+ year member]

Just curious what the "experts" here say about whether or not its better to use a mono class D sub for my subwoofer or if its better to get a bit more power out of a standard 2 channel amp bridged.

Currently my sub would be 4 ohm and 200 watt. The class D I'm looking at is about 300 watts @ 4 ohms. THe 2 channel bridged would be 400 watts bridged @ 4 ohms.

Currently I have 1 sub speaker. I'm leaning towards the mono amp becuase if i ever add another speaker, I could go below 4 ohms. (410 w@ 2 ohms). Where as the standard 2 channel I know your not supposed to bring the total ohmage down below 4 if you bridge it.

I should point out that its highly unlikely I'd add another sub.

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[Polecat 5,000+ posts]

class D amps are better for subs, as they are more effecient and draw less current, then regular class A/B amplifiers.

 

[squeak9798 5,000+ posts]

I should point out that its highly unlikely I'd add another sub.

In that case, assuming your subwoofer could handle the upgraded power of 400w RMS, I'd go with the good ole fashion 2-channel amp and bridge it.

While Tracy is right, class D's are generally more efficient......for the small power levels you are dealing with, I'd take more power over higher efficiency. If we were talking about 1kw, it would be a different story. But for no more power than you are wanting, the differences in current draw will be minute in the grand scheme of things while the increased power could make a relatively substantial difference.

 

[kingsxman 10+ year member]

are most amps not bridgeable with resistances lower than 4 ohms?

 

[squeak9798 5,000+ posts]

are most amps not bridgeable with resistances lower than 4 ohms?

Most 2-channels aren't bridgeable below 4ohms, but some are.

I have a Soundstream Rubicon amp that is 2ohm mono stable. The new RF power amps are aswell.

 

[flakko 5,000+ posts]

well all above stated is good... but i personally like A/B running subs. I heard the difference big time, but i cant prove it because no one else has my ears, and there isnt any scientific crap to back it up (i dont htink) //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 

[squeak9798 5,000+ posts]

but i cant prove it because no one else has my ears, and there isnt any scientific crap to back it up (i dont htink) //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

Nope.

Actually all the scientific data is stanchly contrary to that //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[superakuma 10+ year member]

With the power that you are dealing with I'd say get the cheaper one. But when you get to something like 800+wRMS a 2 channel amp bridge isnt going to make your electrical happy. I found this out the hardway. I thought my car could handle it but it cant handle 2 channel amp bridge 800wRMS @4ohm to power my 12" ava. My lights were dimming like a mofo and I've done the big 3 already. Now I have a 1100wRMS class D amp with no light dimming at ALL even when the bass hits hard.

 

[squeak9798 5,000+ posts]

With the power that you are dealing with I'd say get the cheaper one. But when you get to something like 800+wRMS a 2 channel amp bridge isnt going to make your electrical happy. I found this out the hardway. I thought my car could handle it but it cant handle 2 channel amp bridge 800wRMS @4ohm to power my 12" ava. My lights were dimming like a mofo and I've done the big 3 already. Now I have a 1100wRMS class D amp with no light dimming at ALL even when the bass hits hard.

Vehicle dependent. I have about 1000w of class A/B power in my car right now (200w to the frontstage, 800w to the sub) and I don't have any light dimming at all.