JimJ
5,000+ posts
Tangled Up in Blue
Fiberglass & wet-sanding...?
fiberglass/bondo and A LOT of sanding
gl0ck
10+ year member
Makes things happen
By dk saying alot of sanding he actually means a shit load of sanding and alot of hours if your picky do it but its alot of hard work
x10 on that. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif i used to do a lil auto body repair and sanding is a biotch especially when you really try to smooth/feather it out and make it smooth as possible. be prepared to spend 12+hrs each day working on it to get it done in a decent amount of time. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crazy.gif.c13912c32de98515d3142759a824dae7.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif
Loud3
10+ year member
OG
Don't mold it. You'll beat yourself over the head the first time it splinters the front end because you clipped something on the freeway.
However, if you MUST... bondo, fibreglass, plastic weld depending on what your fenders are made out of.
However, if you MUST... bondo, fibreglass, plastic weld depending on what your fenders are made out of.
- Thread Starter
- #7
alright the work is no problem i have about 6mnth to get it done, there is a bit of a gap like 1/2 in and i was gonna take sum good stirafoam and fill that gap as best as possible, do i use the fleece cloth like with a fiberglass box? or do i just get like tigerhair or kittyhair and lay it over, or should i get the fiberglass cloth or the raw fiberglass and resin, hardener you knwo all the good stuff, let me know and thanks for the help so far
Loud3
10+ year member
OG
I would do a layer of kittyhair front, and back (if possible), and then raw, and then bondo.
dont do it if your car is low.
if this is a fiberglass kit and youre getting a 1/2 inch gap, you probably have to trim the kit in some spots to get a better fit. If the kit is going to be permanent use windshield glue between panels and dont be afraid to use screws to keep it on tight while the glue dries. So do you want to fill the seams just to fill the seams or do you want to eliminate those bodylines altogether?
if this is a fiberglass kit and youre getting a 1/2 inch gap, you probably have to trim the kit in some spots to get a better fit. If the kit is going to be permanent use windshield glue between panels and dont be afraid to use screws to keep it on tight while the glue dries. So do you want to fill the seams just to fill the seams or do you want to eliminate those bodylines altogether?
- Thread Starter
- #10
i want no body lines, i want it all to look like one piece, i dont know i like the look alot, the car will be approx 3-4in off the ground, i wont/dont drive the car much, people in mich. dont drive very well around nice cars, i usually drive to car shows and thats it, no body lines would be the best, will the stirafoam have a chemical reaction with the resin and shit?, thank you again everyone for your help so far, just try to get everything cleared up, i dont want my shit to crack like i have seen before(i thin kbecause they used to much bondo)
yne721
10+ year member
SWINE FLU!!!!
where are you in MI?
- Thread Starter
- #12
flint
well if youre not going to drive the car much why not. over here noone molds their kit on, roads **** and angled driveways will crack it up.
Ive never done one but heres what you would have to do. it all really depends on the kit and the body lines but most can be done. fit the kit and mark the lines. take off the kit and sand down your paint, go down to bare metal probably 3-4 inches above the line, more if the kit is 'fatter'. youll want to use a scuff pad below the line too to scuff it up nice so the windshield glue adheres best. I like to use windshield glue on kits just because itll never ever budge. And vibration is what ends up cracking stuff. Use alot of glue especially by the seams and stick those babies on. Use screws to clamp it, alot of screws if its a cheap kit and fits like sh!t. Just turn the screws to adjust fit, you should use a light/straight edge to see if its wavy or not. Thats why the more screws the better, more adjustment.
..i forgot before you glue the skirts on strip the gelcoat maybe about one inch off the top of each piece (or more depending on the curves of the kit) so the glass can stick. If theres alot of gappage underneath the mounted kit you can use a couple of cans of hilti brand expanding foam to strengthen everything. the hilti stuff is at home depot, its light and dries like a rock.
Ok so now the pieces are on and the surfaces are prepped. i hope you didnt skimp on the prepwork //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eyebrow.gif.fe2c18d8720fe8c7eaed347b21ea05a5.gif LoL. To get rid of the seam use a thin layer of kitty hair (have those screws removed/grinded off if they didnt come out so you can start finishing those holes too) just enough so when you fiberglass on top of it its an easy lay from the fiberglass to the metal. use thinner glass if you have a deep concave where the seam was. Dont rush things because you ultimately need to add the same amount of material around the car so it doesnt look wavy. After you glass get some polyester putty for your finishing work. Dont be afraid to go to an auto body supply shop either, product isnt much more expensive and makes your work alot easier. You could also use a small fiberglass roller from a marine supply to lay the glass easier esp. if its deep concave.
Ive never done one but heres what you would have to do. it all really depends on the kit and the body lines but most can be done. fit the kit and mark the lines. take off the kit and sand down your paint, go down to bare metal probably 3-4 inches above the line, more if the kit is 'fatter'. youll want to use a scuff pad below the line too to scuff it up nice so the windshield glue adheres best. I like to use windshield glue on kits just because itll never ever budge. And vibration is what ends up cracking stuff. Use alot of glue especially by the seams and stick those babies on. Use screws to clamp it, alot of screws if its a cheap kit and fits like sh!t. Just turn the screws to adjust fit, you should use a light/straight edge to see if its wavy or not. Thats why the more screws the better, more adjustment.
..i forgot before you glue the skirts on strip the gelcoat maybe about one inch off the top of each piece (or more depending on the curves of the kit) so the glass can stick. If theres alot of gappage underneath the mounted kit you can use a couple of cans of hilti brand expanding foam to strengthen everything. the hilti stuff is at home depot, its light and dries like a rock.
Ok so now the pieces are on and the surfaces are prepped. i hope you didnt skimp on the prepwork //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eyebrow.gif.fe2c18d8720fe8c7eaed347b21ea05a5.gif LoL. To get rid of the seam use a thin layer of kitty hair (have those screws removed/grinded off if they didnt come out so you can start finishing those holes too) just enough so when you fiberglass on top of it its an easy lay from the fiberglass to the metal. use thinner glass if you have a deep concave where the seam was. Dont rush things because you ultimately need to add the same amount of material around the car so it doesnt look wavy. After you glass get some polyester putty for your finishing work. Dont be afraid to go to an auto body supply shop either, product isnt much more expensive and makes your work alot easier. You could also use a small fiberglass roller from a marine supply to lay the glass easier esp. if its deep concave.
- Thread Starter
- #14
alright i think i got a good idea of what to do, if i need anything i will come back lol
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