MOJO 515d4 vs. CT SOUNDS 4000.1

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southpaw_inkz

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I have a pair of Memphis MOJO 15's ( MOJO515d4 ) and I have them wired down to 1ohm. The amp puts out 4000 watts RMS and the subs are rated at 1750 RMS each. Should I be worried about that extra 250 watts damaging my subs ? Im pretty sure I should be ok but just wanted to make sure.

P.S. Im a newb to this forum and just got back into car audio so HELLO everyone !

 
The clipping light is pretty accurate, but it will start soft-clipping a little before the light comes on. Was proven with an o-scope.

You should be fine if the clipping light is off. The system can take a soft clip.

As far as "by ear", my rule of thumb is:

If it sounds bad, it is bad. Turn it down. Distortion can be a sign that your equipment is being stressed and/or damaged

 
I appreciate the help! I know that I definitely need to run another 0 gauge wire back to my amp because the single is showing a hellified voltage drop. I have a dual battery but they're both under the hood. Maybe I should put one closer to the amp and step up my alternator. Like I said, im just starting this build so im working out the bugs and a lot has changed since I stopped installing 12 years ago.

 
I appreciate the help! I know that I definitely need to run another 0 gauge wire back to my amp because the single is showing a hellified voltage drop. I have a dual battery but they're both under the hood. Maybe I should put one closer to the amp and step up my alternator. Like I said, im just starting this build so im working out the bugs and a lot has changed since I stopped installing 12 years ago.
Any time!

With this kind of wattage, a battery by the amp is a must. I'd also recommend an upgraded alt, but most people don't want to pay that.

I'll probably post a build log this weekend. You'll see why I needed a new alt, haha

 
Would you recommend something like a 250amp ? If so could it maintain 3 batteries or is 2 enough ?
I would always recommend the biggest alternator you can get because it's better than batteries and it always leaves room for upgrading. Check out Singer and Mechman (Singer preferred). As far as batteries goes it'll will depend on the alternator size and battery brand. What brand do you have?

 
I would always recommend the biggest alternator you can get because it's better than batteries and it always leaves room for upgrading. Check out Singer and Mechman (Singer preferred). As far as batteries goes it'll will depend on the alternator size and battery brand. What brand do you have?
I have a 2011 escalade so I think the first battery is a stock delco then I added an isolator with a yellow top optima.

 
I have a 2011 escalade so I think the first battery is a stock delco then I added an isolator with a yellow top optima.
I would suggest getting (If you have the money) the alrgest Odyssey or XS Power battery you can fit under the hood and a couple Group 31's in the rear. You could also look at Kinetik, Duracell, or Deka (Several others I can't think of right now)

 
I contacted Singer about a new alternator but I have another question. When I move my battery to the back should I run dual 0 gauges from the front to the back or just from the rear battery to the amp?

 
I'm going to be running the same amp at

.5 ohm next week. I have a J's Ultimate Alts 275 amp alt, 4 runs of 0 (two pos and 2 neg), and a little over 300 ah of battery. Just to give you an idea of the electrical needed to run this amp. It does 5k+ btw. Same board as an rd d9. The amp has quad terminals, I would make use of them and try and give the amp the most current possible. DO NOT MOUNT IT TO YOUR BOX!

 
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Oh, just for future reference. Put $800 OBO, or you will only get that $600, or less. ;)
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https://caraudiobargain.com/audio-apex-cab-22-car-amplifier-monoblock-2200-watts-rms/ Since these are back in stock they're really hard to beat...
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I was able to log in fine, using Chrome if that helps. I don't know anything about the product at all, just found the info and shared the love. :)
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southpaw_inkz

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