midbass

96civ
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OK I have a set of JL comps in kickpanels. They work great for anything but midbass -- obviously you can't expect much from a 6.5" midwoofer. So I was thinking about glassing a door pod to hold a 8" midbass driver on each side. A few questions come to mind when seriously putting this idea to thought, such as the following: which drivers would you recommend (I've thought TangBand or even Dayton), should I seal the enclosure or give the speakers the airspace behind the door panel which is synonymous to a ported-type enclosure, and would it be a big PITA to do so?

 
OK I have a set of JL comps in kickpanels. They work great for anything but midbass -- obviously you can't expect much from a 6.5" midwoofer.
Are your kickpanels sealed?

Played with the phase of the midwoofers?

Where do you have the xovered, and at what slope?

What do you think the midbass is "missing"?

 
Are your kickpanels sealed?
Yes

Played with the phase of the midwoofers?
They're in phase.

Where do you have the xovered, and at what slope?
The JL xovers claim 1st order low-pass 2nd order high-pass with a freq. response of 48Hz - 25KHz, but I can check to find the capacitance and inductance on the components to find out the xover points.

Another option I could try, which I haven't done yet, is to set the HPF on the component amp.

What do you think the midbass is "missing"?
To put it obliquely, the audible level of higher midbass notes do not play as loud as the subwoofer notes (from the bass guitar)... no matter how I set the h/u.

 
Yes
They're in phase.

The JL xovers claim 1st order low-pass 2nd order high-pass with a freq. response of 48Hz - 25KHz, but I can check to find the capacitance and inductance on the components to find out the xover points.

Another option I could try, which I haven't done yet, is to set the HPF on the component amp.

To put it obliquely, the audible level of higher midbass notes do not play as loud as the subwoofer notes (from the bass guitar)... no matter how I set the h/u.
ported box in a car will tend to do that....

 
That could be part of your problem.

Most car audio speakers don't like to be in small sealed enclosures.

They're in phase.
Absolute, or relative?

Because wiring the positive on the amp to the positive on the speaker, doesn't mean that the speakers will be acoustically in phase with each other.

The JL xovers claim 1st order low-pass 2nd order high-pass with a freq. response of 48Hz - 25KHz, but I can check to find the capacitance and inductance on the components to find out the xover points.
Another option I could try, which I haven't done yet, is to set the HPF on the component amp.
Most component set passive xovers do not highpass the midwoofer at all.

While JL never specifically mentions it anywhere, given the way it is "listed", I would guess they simply mean the midwoofer is lowpassed @ 6db/oct and the tweeter is highpassed at 12db/oct.

So yes, I would recommend setting the highpass filter on either your headunit or amplifier.

To put it obliquely, the audible level of higher midbass notes do not play as loud as the subwoofer notes (from the bass guitar)... no matter how I set the h/u.
Kill the sub and listen to just the speakers.

 
I have a seperate Tang Band midbass... wow! It's incredible that I can feel my midbass on my chest //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
OK I have a set of JL comps in kickpanels. They work great for anything but midbass -- obviously you can't expect much from a 6.5" midwoofer. So I was thinking about glassing a door pod to hold a 8" midbass driver on each side. A few questions come to mind when seriously putting this idea to thought, such as the following: which drivers would you recommend (I've thought TangBand or even Dayton), should I seal the enclosure or give the speakers the airspace behind the door panel which is synonymous to a ported-type enclosure, and would it be a big PITA to do so?
yes you want to vent behind them, isn't necessarily synonymous to a ported.

you can get awesome midbass from a 6.5". i rave about DD W6.5LT for good reason. i dropped my set off with another shop i associate with. we were having a discussion one day about midbass and smaller drivers and the focal 5" were on the menu (great driver also). they are focal dealers, we are DD. so i suggested for them to try the DD and see what they think for the application we were talking about.

anyway, i called them yesterday to see if they've got a chance to play with them yet cause i'm going to be needing them back. they said the 2 DD's kill 4 JL 6W0's (they did a car with 2 JL's in each door). they were flat amazed at what the DD's did and can handle.

8's are great, go for it if you have the means. if you want something simpler, try the DD's. 50hz - 200hz, pour on the power, your front stage midbass will tear it up.

 
yes you want to vent behind them, isn't necessarily synonymous to a ported.
you can get awesome midbass from a 6.5". i rave about DD W6.5LT for good reason. i dropped my set off with another shop i associate with. we were having a discussion one day about midbass and smaller drivers and the focal 5" were on the menu (great driver also). they are focal dealers, we are DD. so i suggested for them to try the DD and see what they think for the application we were talking about.

anyway, i called them yesterday to see if they've got a chance to play with them yet cause i'm going to be needing them back. they said the 2 DD's kill 4 JL 6W0's (they did a car with 2 JL's in each door). they were flat amazed at what the DD's did and can handle.

8's are great, go for it if you have the means. if you want something simpler, try the DD's. 50hz - 200hz, pour on the power, your front stage midbass will tear it up.
how much do they run for?

 
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