Midbass enclosure in door panel

[loudenuff]

I was wondering how feasible it would be to build a small sealed enclosure for door speakers and glass it into the door panel? I saw a video awhile back of a guy doing 5"s in a t line in his door panels. I'm thinking an 8" sealed. Would this be better than just sound deadening the door? I know there are a lot of smaller holes that can't be properly sealed in the doors (such as panel clip holes) so wouldn't it make more sense just to build an enclosure for it?

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[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

You will need a ton of airspace. They are designed to be IB. The little holes are fine.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

I was wondering how feasible it would be to build a small sealed enclosure for door speakers and glass it into the door panel? I saw a video awhile back of a guy doing 5"s in a t line in his door panels. I'm thinking an 8" sealed. Would this be better than just sound deadening the door? I know there are a lot of smaller holes that can't be properly sealed in the doors (such as panel clip holes) so wouldn't it make more sense just to build an enclosure for it?

You will get much better results with the proper enclosure but even more important as proper aiming and phase corrspondance between the midbass and tweeter..

 

[loudenuff]

[quote name='papermaker']You will get much better results with the proper enclosure but even more important as proper aiming and phase corrspondance between the midbass and tweeter..[/QUOTE]
@LosIsATool
Well I've already noticed how much phasing matters due to my tweeters which face each other. No matter how much fiddling I do with the 80prs network settings the right one on a 45ish phase always seems to be louder.
Depending on how the next couple months go I'll either go 3 way active or 2 way active with an 8 and a 3". I'll probably go for on axis with the 3, if it's recommended I'll go on axis with the 8 too (well if my craftsmanship is good enough)
But I deadened the sweet ***** out of my left door to see if there was any difference in response, and there is some difference with the window rolled up. But as soon as it's rolled down even an inch I lose any form of bass.
I've been more attentive to Ky door speakers since I no long have a sub installed.. they also bottom out a lot with bass kicks. I figured it was too much power but even on 1/4 gain (probably around 45 watts) they bottom out. I have my lpf on 160 6db/octave and they sound pretty decent, but I have the eq gains adjusted gradually going up from 125hz-20hz.

 

[loudenuff]

Which I'll obviously have to put the eq back to flat on the bass spectrum when I get another subwoofer in so that won't work. But they'll bottom out even with the lpf at 100 with a 30db/octave slope.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Only way to see what's really going on is a RTA. Grab a Dayton USB mic and download REW.

 

[loudenuff]

Only way to see what's really going on is a RTA. Grab a Dayton USB mic and download REW.

Parts express has a calibrated Dayton mic for less than 20.. think it's accurate enough? It looks a bit cheap

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

It will work for what you are doing.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

[quote name='loudenuff']@LosIsATool
Well I've already noticed how much phasing matters due to my tweeters which face each other. No matter how much fiddling I do with the 80prs network settings the right one on a 45ish phase always seems to be louder.
Depending on how the next couple months go I'll either go 3 way active or 2 way active with an 8 and a 3". I'll probably go for on axis with the 3, if it's recommended I'll go on axis with the 8 too (well if my craftsmanship is good enough)
But I deadened the sweet ***** out of my left door to see if there was any difference in response, and there is some difference with the window rolled up. But as soon as it's rolled down even an inch I lose any form of bass.
I've been more attentive to Ky door speakers since I no long have a sub installed.. they also bottom out a lot with bass kicks. I figured it was too much power but even on 1/4 gain (probably around 45 watts) they bottom out. I have my lpf on 160 6db/octave and they sound pretty decent, but I have the eq gains adjusted gradually going up from 125hz-20hz.[/QUOTE] beaming under 500 hz isn't an issue. if you used a dedicated mid bass just try to keep a single point source to minimize phase issues.

---------- Post added at 09:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:24 PM ----------

[quote name='loudenuff']Parts express has a calibrated Dayton mic for less than 20.. think it's accurate enough? It looks a bit cheap[/QUOTE]

get the DATs/mic kit. its 220 and well worth it!

 

[ashren315]

Don't have the room to put them in custom kick panels?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Use speaker level adjustments if that tweeter is still feeling too loud.

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

I think I replied to your questions yesterday on Facebook in Strictly Sound Quality. My name is Barry Schanz. We were discussing crossover slopes. Are you that guy?

Regarding speaker aiming, here is a chart that shows the relationship between frequency wavelength and speaker cone diameter. The short, short story behind this is if we want sound dispersion to be wide, choose low pass filter settings that keep the speakers cut off at a frequency in one of the green columns.

Notice the 6" diameter "2D" column says 1130. That's when 1130 Hz comes off the cone in a spread of a bit less than 180 degrees, or in all directions away from one side. That means with 99% of small format tweeters we have to have the woofer dispersion narrowing in order to match up with the low end of the tweeters.

How can this information help you decide how to aim a 3-way component set? I look forward to your answer.