MAJOR current draw... AHHHHH!!!!!!1!11!

[IgnoreMe 5,000+ posts]

buy a new battery. problem solved

no...

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

says 85 amps @ 800 rpm, and thats with the stock pulley that comes with the alt, not even with the custom one you have now.
they are either A: lying or B: you are idling WAY too low for the alt to kick on.

from what i have read the tahoes dont idle @ 800rpm's...and it makes me wonder why you would need a super small pulley to try to get some performance out of the **** thing as well.

also i would get alts that are KNOWN to work not just the cheapest to the highest amp output. iraggi, ohio gen, i know will do what they say and many off here say mean green does too. all i can say is if the connections check out then what ignore is saying is 1000000% true. one of the first rules i learned in car audio is it is always cheaper to buy what is known to be the right stuff lol as i can honestly say i would have had a rather nice down payment for a house just on wasted money i have blown on trying to be cheap. i would spend 6-10 grand on crap that i wouldnt have 7 months later and sold it at a loss (i did that more than once). lol oh the good ol days:crying:

 

[IgnoreMe 5,000+ posts]

also i would get alts that are KNOWN to work not just the cheapest to the highest amp output. iraggi, ohio gen, i know will do what they say and many off here say mean green does too. all i can say is if the connections check out then what ignore is saying is 1000000% true. one of the first rules i learned in car audio is it is always cheaper to buy what is known to be the right stuff lol as i can honestly say i would have had a rather nice down payment for a house just on wasted money i have blown on trying to be cheap. i would spend 6-10 grand on crap that i wouldnt have 7 months later and sold it at a loss (i did that more than once). lol oh the good ol days:crying:

so true. i researched for a long time and mean-green checked out. its been a DREAM in my car with no problems.

my buddy wanted to go cheaper and got the motorcityreman. it didnt work right, did the same thing as the OP. then he called them and complained. they sent him a smaller pulley. definitely helped a little, but still didnt work right. called and complained again. they told him to send it in and hes waiting for it to come back. i really hope it works right this time (doubt it). he has since told me about 5x that "i should of just listened to you and got the mean green" lol

 

[PSturmer 10+ year member]

just get a couple powermaster batteries. they can support over 700 amps for 5 seconds.

 

[x on 22s 10+ year member]

see i have the same problem in my explorer. ive replaced the alt with a stock replacement and changed my battery to a red top. when i idle it does it at 14v but when the bass hits it drops down to 11 and blows up a 100amp fuse. i have 2 ppi pc 2600 and both running at 2 ohm. i have one running 2 sets of oz audio comp and the other 2 12" he2s with 4 gauge running to a distr block and just added a 1.5 fared cap to see if that would help. im guessing that it could be my battery cause ive drained it more than couple times and maybe the bat wont hold a charge any more any sugestions....

 

[audioarsonal 10+ year member]

measure the size of the crank pulley then measure the alt pulley.Divide the crank by the alt pulley and you should come up with 3-4 depending on the size of the alt pulley (2in normally for HO alts)now multiply this by your RPM and it will give you the speed of the alt.I had to go to an 1 5/8in pulley cause my idle was so low.

 

[OoMesKoO 10+ year member]

:::UPDATE:::

I just re-installed my old 100a stocker. My idle draw is perfect. But whether im at idle, or 3000 rpm, subs full tilt, i get a draw down to like 11 volts. Would adding another battery be a good fix now?

Amp = Cadence ZRS10

 

[Pyro_By_Nature 5,000+ posts]

Not gonna read the whole thread, sorry haha.

But my recommendations, H.O. alt. with a second battery, and a couple runs of 1/0 from front to back (one for power, one for ground).

If you still have that bad of current draw then you got MAJOR issues somewhere. Even with a HK4000D at 1ohm my electrical handled it pretty well with a factory 130A alt. with 2 batts (optima blue top front, deka intimidator back).

 

[rich52490 10+ year member]

Is your alternator output going straight to your battery? Because for some odd *** reason in my explorer the alternator went to the starter relay Before I would have the same problems with huge voltage drops. I just recently re-routed the wire to go directly to the positive battery terminal, and now I am running at 15.00V idle. I am getting about a .7V drop at most now. Stock alternator by the way(95 amp)

 

[PSturmer 10+ year member]

I cant win. This is insane. Someone needs to help me out.

I just put my new Cadence ZRS10 in my tahoe today. Even before that though, I am having some SERIOUS current draw problems. I have an alterstart 180a alternator, 0awg all around, 4awg to the zrs, 4awg ground. A kicker 350.2 for my comps. 4awg + - there too. But when the bass hits, or the amp runs full tilt, forget about it. I drop to almost like 10 volts! I am running a stock POS battery, does that have anything to do with it? What else can i do to beef this up so the draw isnt so friggen bad? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crying.gif.ec0ebefe590df0251476573bc49e46d8.gif

lol. whats so hard about it? just get a new battery.

 

[PSturmer 10+ year member]

see i have the same problem in my explorer. ive replaced the alt with a stock replacement and changed my battery to a red top. when i idle it does it at 14v but when the bass hits it drops down to 11 and blows up a 100amp fuse. i have 2 ppi pc 2600 and both running at 2 ohm. i have one running 2 sets of oz audio comp and the other 2 12" he2s with 4 gauge running to a distr block and just added a 1.5 fared cap to see if that would help. im guessing that it could be my battery cause ive drained it more than couple times and maybe the bat wont hold a charge any more any sugestions....

my explorer + stock alt+ 2 kinetiks + 5000 watts = not lower than 11v droppage

even with car off on a burp (db drag) the lowest i am able to go is 11.6