Loud components?

[C1500martin 10+ year member]

Whats up guys im looking to see whats out there thats loud? Im running an image dynamics xs65 set active off a soundqubed 4-120 and its not loud enough. I want louder. I understand its just one set but im sure their is louder stuff. What do you guys recommend?

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[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Pro audio. Hertz if you have the money.

 

[blazian87 10+ year member]

Price range? Are you looking for a component set with crossovers or separate speakers running active?

This should be very loud but kinda pricey...

B&C DE35 Neodymium Mylar Bullet Tweeter (requires 3" diameter cutout)

B&C 6MDN44 6-1/2" Neodymium Midrange Speaker (goes down to 150hz with 96.5db sensitivity)

or these if you want to extend the midbass lower

B&C 6NDL38 6-1/2" Neodymium Woofer (goes down to 70hz with 92db sensitivity)

This should be around $360-390 for the set. All made in Italy.

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

Those components have relatively high sensitivity, and they're designed for very smooth frequency response. They should get plenty loud, but it may be that they're not voiced the way you want. What I'm getting at is maybe accurate sounding speakers are not matching your needs, and a more aggressive sounding speaker set will do it for you. On the other hand, some EQ changes might help to emphasize the vocals and such. Make cuts on your graphic EQ, in small increments, instead of boosts.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

My set of HSK XLs. One set with 150 to the mid and 75 to the tweeter easily kept up with 150db to the dome. And stayed very detailed with proper imaging.

 

[C1500martin 10+ year member]

Pro audio. Hertz if you have the money.

Like what kind of pro audio? And hertz are pretty procey new

Price range? Are you looking for a component set with crossovers or separate speakers running active?
This should be very loud but kinda pricey...

B&C DE35 Neodymium Mylar Bullet Tweeter (requires 3" diameter cutout)

B&C 6MDN44 6-1/2" Neodymium Midrange Speaker (goes down to 150hz with 96.5db sensitivity)

or these if you want to extend the midbass lower

B&C 6NDL38 6-1/2" Neodymium Woofer (goes down to 70hz with 92db sensitivity)

This should be around $360-390 for the set. All made in Italy.

Yea a little high in price

My set of HSK XLs. One set with 150 to the mid and 75 to the tweeter easily kept up with 150db to the dome. And stayed very detailed with proper imaging.

Ive heard that high end tweeters are very sensitivr though? Like my xs set im on my 3rd tweeters rather they are stupid sensitive or really crappy or in doing something wrong but i cant keep em for more than 5 songs

 

[C1500martin 10+ year member]

Those components have relatively high sensitivity, and they're designed for very smooth frequency response. They should get plenty loud, but it may be that they're not voiced the way you want. What I'm getting at is maybe accurate sounding speakers are not matching your needs, and a more aggressive sounding speaker set will do it for you. On the other hand, some EQ changes might help to emphasize the vocals and such. Make cuts on your graphic EQ, in small increments, instead of boosts.

Well i never had an eq but with my new HU i guess ill have more options right? And yea im thinking maybe sq oriented stuff isnt what im looking for although i HATE harsh tweets i cant stand them so i went with sq stuff because i heard theyd be warmer and easier on the ear which they were but stupid things are so sensitive and keep blowing!

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Well i never had an eq but with my new HU i guess ill have more options right? And yea im thinking maybe sq oriented stuff isnt what im looking for although i HATE harsh tweets i cant stand them so i went with sq stuff because i heard theyd be warmer and easier on the ear

You'll have to run active if you dont like sensitive tweeters. Most of the times with passive components, i feel they let too little power go to the midrange and too much power goes to the tweeters and the crossover slopes arent too great. I hate harsh tweeters too man, when i got my 80 prs, it all literally went away. Head unit makes a big difference in getting rid of that harsh SSSS sound that rips a hole through your ears.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I'd say man just keep your ID components, run active with amps if you dont have an active capable head unit. All you need to do is add a midrange pro audio to your kick panel, use your id woofer as a dedicated midbass and do all the crossovers on your amps. Sounds like you just need stronger midrange in your system and better tuned highs. A whole new component set will not remedy the problem if harshess already occurs.

as for pro audio choices, selenium, neo pro or eminence betas if you want good quality drivers. Anything cheaper is just off the shelf but in all honesty, with a good head unit, off the shelf pro audio can sound real nice, adds a lot of the missing "in your face" midrange thats traded off for more detail with SQ oriented sets. Using a pair of 8 ohm db drive pro audios i got from trumpet for dedicated midrange and it works real nicely.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

They are 90rms and can play down to 2k.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Here you go. $300 shipped and they are yours.

 

[C1500martin 10+ year member]

You'll have to run active if you dont like sensitive tweeters. Most of the times with passive components, i feel they let too little power go to the midrange and too much power goes to the tweeters and the crossover slopes arent too great. I hate harsh tweeters too man, when i got my 80 prs, it all literally went away. Head unit makes a big difference in getting rid of that harsh SSSS sound that rips a hole through your ears.

Im running active right now off anp and i think thats why my tweets keep blowing. I have my gain so high so they keep up with the sub. I was actually thinking of just running passive and run 2 sets of components so i dont have to crank it as much to hear my music. My HU goes up to 35 and i canthear my mids or highs lower than 15 and at 31 my max lostening range they barelykeep up. But hopefully my 8000nex fixes that

 

[blazian87 10+ year member]

Im running active right now off anp and i think thats why my tweets keep blowing. I have my gain so high so they keep up with the sub. I was actually thinking of just running passive and run 2 sets of components so i dont have to crank it as much to hear my music. My HU goes up to 35 and i canthear my mids or highs lower than 15 and at 31 my max lostening range they barelykeep up. But hopefully my 8000nex fixes that

yea I think a new headunit will make a huge difference. Are you gonna try mounting your tweeter in your A-pillar? Should be louder since it's closer to your ears.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Im running active right now off anp and i think thats why my tweets keep blowing. I have my gain so high so they keep up with the sub. I was actually thinking of just running passive and run 2 sets of components so i dont have to crank it as much to hear my music. My HU goes up to 35 and i canthear my mids or highs lower than 15 and at 31 my max lostening range they barelykeep up. But hopefully my 8000nex fixes that

cone area is one way to get louder but the better way is with quality drivers. Putting money on components(passive crossovers) when you can go active is a complete waste of money. If you are planning on running itwo sets like that, might as well just get a 8 or 10 inch midbass driver and a dedicated 6.5 midrange driver with high end tweets. You'll get a lot more midbass and overall loudness and better sound quality. 3 way active sets can do crazy amounts of work. Midranges get screaming loud when they dont have to play under 500hz

 

[C1500martin 10+ year member]

yea I think a new headunit will make a huge difference. Are you gonna try mounting your tweeter in your A-pillar? Should be louder since it's closer to your ears.

Yea ima try mounting the tweets on the pillars. My new HU is whats congusing me now it has slope adjustaments and TIme alignment and all that but since in running my tweets on my "front" rca and mids "rear" rca all that gets defeated huh? Its usless to use the time alignment?

cone area is one way to get louder but the better way is with quality drivers. Putting money on components(passive crossovers) when you can go active is a complete waste of money. If you are planning on running itwo sets like that, might as well just get a 8 or 10 inch midbass driver and a dedicated 6.5 midrange driver with high end tweets. You'll get a lot more midbass and overall loudness and better sound quality. 3 way active sets can do crazy amounts of work. Midranges get screaming loud when they dont have to play under 500hz

To go 3 way active i need another amp though huh? And i have no space for another amp