Okapi
Junior Member
I am aware they are old
Kenwood KFC-W3009
# 12" 4-ohm subwoofer
# pearl mica injection-molded polypropylene woofer cone with urethane foam surround
# overlapping ribs on cone surface for improved rigidity and dampened resonance
# extended pole piece and bumped back plate for increased cone excursion
# power range: 35-400 watts RMS (800 watts peak power)
# frequency response: 25-800 Hz
So My amp went out, and well I've been thinking if there was a better way of hooking these things up
Audiobahn A8002t
# 200 watts RMS x 2 at 4 ohms
# 400 watts RMS x 2 at 2 ohms
# 800 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms
# stereo or bridged mono output
# Tri-way capable (Tri-Way crossover required)
# MOSFET power supply
# 4-gauge power and ground leads recommended — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier
# high gloss chrome plate finish with blue illumination
# variable crossovers (50-750 Hz, 18 dB/octave high-pass, and 50-120 Hz, 18 dB/octave low-pass)
# subsonic filter (20-50 Hz)
# 18 dB bass boost (switchable on/off)
# preamp outputs
# preamp- and speaker-level inputs
# cooling fan
I'm considering purchasing this amp:
Kenwood X1200M
RATED OUTPUT POWER (14.4V):
• 800W RMS x 1 @ 4Ω
• (20Hz-200Hz @ 1%THD)
• 1200W RMS x 1 @ 2Ω
• (100Hz @ 1% THD)
RMS POWER OUTPUT (CEA-2006)
• 800W RMS x 1
• (RMS @ 4Ω, 1% THD+N)
• 75dBa Signal-To-Noise Ratio
BUILT-IN CROSSOVER CONTROL:
• Variable Low-Pass Filter: 50Hz-200Hz (-24dB/oct)
• Variable Infrasonic Filter: 15Hz-40Hz (-24dB/oct)
TERMINALS:
• Battery: Hex Type (4 AWG)
• Ground: Hex Type (4 AWG)
• Speaker: Hex Type (8 AWG)
• Operating Voltage: 14.4V
• Current Consumption: 90A
• S/N Ratio: 105dB
• Frequency Response: 20Hz-200Hz
• Input Sensitivity: 0.2V ~ 5.0V
I've been looking at wiring diagrams at Crutchfield.com
Since the subs work (hooked up an old amp to test), I didn't really feel the need to replace them, they sounded great so, I figured no need to change anything. But, I always felt the subs should have hit much better, so I just always figured it was the amp, but after looking at a few wiring diagrams on crutchfield.com I found maybe it is better to use a single channel with a daisy chan setup at 2 ohms. (I was probably running them at 200 RMS, instead of the 400 RMS at 4 Ohms). I am a beginner with this kind of stuff, but I don't mind reading, and I don't see how my system can be that complicated to warrant a pro setting it up. I have been check out parallel diagrams, and series diagrams, and it seems the best setup would be to run a parallel setup at 4 ohms running 800 watts RMS with a single channel? Not sure if that would damage my speakers though.
I am also looking at the head unit (as I guess that went out too lol), Alpine iDA-X305 since I have the iPhone 3gs, but I've seen good and bad reviews will be checking it out in person before buying from store/off web.
Some input would be great, thanks in advance.
Also hola, as this is my first post.
(I've read the big 3 and I will probably do that a bit later as I wan some sound more than a perfect audio system right now)
Kenwood KFC-W3009
# 12" 4-ohm subwoofer
# pearl mica injection-molded polypropylene woofer cone with urethane foam surround
# overlapping ribs on cone surface for improved rigidity and dampened resonance
# extended pole piece and bumped back plate for increased cone excursion
# power range: 35-400 watts RMS (800 watts peak power)
# frequency response: 25-800 Hz
So My amp went out, and well I've been thinking if there was a better way of hooking these things up
Audiobahn A8002t
# 200 watts RMS x 2 at 4 ohms
# 400 watts RMS x 2 at 2 ohms
# 800 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms
# stereo or bridged mono output
# Tri-way capable (Tri-Way crossover required)
# MOSFET power supply
# 4-gauge power and ground leads recommended — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier
# high gloss chrome plate finish with blue illumination
# variable crossovers (50-750 Hz, 18 dB/octave high-pass, and 50-120 Hz, 18 dB/octave low-pass)
# subsonic filter (20-50 Hz)
# 18 dB bass boost (switchable on/off)
# preamp outputs
# preamp- and speaker-level inputs
# cooling fan
I'm considering purchasing this amp:
Kenwood X1200M
RATED OUTPUT POWER (14.4V):
• 800W RMS x 1 @ 4Ω
• (20Hz-200Hz @ 1%THD)
• 1200W RMS x 1 @ 2Ω
• (100Hz @ 1% THD)
RMS POWER OUTPUT (CEA-2006)
• 800W RMS x 1
• (RMS @ 4Ω, 1% THD+N)
• 75dBa Signal-To-Noise Ratio
BUILT-IN CROSSOVER CONTROL:
• Variable Low-Pass Filter: 50Hz-200Hz (-24dB/oct)
• Variable Infrasonic Filter: 15Hz-40Hz (-24dB/oct)
TERMINALS:
• Battery: Hex Type (4 AWG)
• Ground: Hex Type (4 AWG)
• Speaker: Hex Type (8 AWG)
• Operating Voltage: 14.4V
• Current Consumption: 90A
• S/N Ratio: 105dB
• Frequency Response: 20Hz-200Hz
• Input Sensitivity: 0.2V ~ 5.0V
I've been looking at wiring diagrams at Crutchfield.com
Since the subs work (hooked up an old amp to test), I didn't really feel the need to replace them, they sounded great so, I figured no need to change anything. But, I always felt the subs should have hit much better, so I just always figured it was the amp, but after looking at a few wiring diagrams on crutchfield.com I found maybe it is better to use a single channel with a daisy chan setup at 2 ohms. (I was probably running them at 200 RMS, instead of the 400 RMS at 4 Ohms). I am a beginner with this kind of stuff, but I don't mind reading, and I don't see how my system can be that complicated to warrant a pro setting it up. I have been check out parallel diagrams, and series diagrams, and it seems the best setup would be to run a parallel setup at 4 ohms running 800 watts RMS with a single channel? Not sure if that would damage my speakers though.
I am also looking at the head unit (as I guess that went out too lol), Alpine iDA-X305 since I have the iPhone 3gs, but I've seen good and bad reviews will be checking it out in person before buying from store/off web.
Some input would be great, thanks in advance.
Also hola, as this is my first post.
(I've read the big 3 and I will probably do that a bit later as I wan some sound more than a perfect audio system right now)