Lnzar OPTI2000D a hoax?!!!

Phreaker
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Check it.I read the sheet here http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=155668&highlight=Lanzar

It simply says OUTPUT power @ 1%THD,1khz (1,000Hz) and 14.4 volts

Thats a joke considering sub frequencies are basically from 120Hz on down to 20Hz.

Anyways I had a convo with this guy on a non car audio related message board and he happens to work at a car audio shop and well here is what he had to say about the Lanzar OPTI2000D.......

"i dont know if you can follow me but check out how i look at this thing---->

1. This amp is being tested at 1khz----- thats 1000hz. Most SUB noises are at a lower freq. like between 20-120hz. That is the key frequency range to lookfor, i cant stress this enough. 1khz is 1000 cycles pe second--kinda of lika a wwwaaaaaaaaaaaaa sound. This frequency is not something to look at for a subwoofer--more for a midbass-woofer.

2.Look at the output power at 2Ohms- Anything less than 2 ohms is going to cause problems at some point in time, i guarantee.

3.Look at the dampening factor at 100hz---4ohms --!!

4.!Efficiancy at lowest impedance (0.5-ohms(boo)) is 79-85%..

From what I've heard-- in the right setup with solid power supplys--aka batterys-- these amps work great-- just dont convince yourself that its a 2000w amp just yet....more liike 800w -- 1000wmaxx to work with. if the price is right, go for it. "

He is right isn't he?!

If so then Lanzar is bigger crap then I thought.

So whats the deal with this amp?

How much continuous power does it really put out on 14.4v at 4 ohms and 2 ohms and 1 ohm at a frequency for subs?

Is it true anything under 2 ohms will present a problem?

 
You can believe what you want to believe, but i ran mine @ 1 ohm, and it tore the !@%# out of 2 12" l5's in about 5 minutes, with the gain set with a DMM, and a factory 120A alternator (it was a diesel, tho)

If it's a 800w amp, it was the absolute nastiest 800w bass attack i've EVER heard

i don't know what kind of power supply it has on it, but it's aggressive as hell, it dimmed my lights like no amp i've ever owned, it full-on *****slapped my battery

 
LOL not a buddy really,I have never met him he's just some one that belongs to a local message board.We are surfers in West florida on the gulfcoast and have a great community going on and he and only one other are into car audio.

So does it matter what I have the amps LPF set to as far as watts the subs recieve goes?Like is there a drop in watts RMS from 1000Hz to 40Hz or does that 1000Hz not mean anything that I should be concerned with?

I just want to make sure each 12" Type R is getting atleast 700-800w RMS with about 850w RMS being the goal.

Sorry about all the questions and all but car audio is expensive and I like my money well spent.

 
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enough said.

 
Well, the impedance of your speaker's going to vary depending on your enclosure and the frequency being played, so no matter what, power's never 100% constant, in fact it can vary a lot.

There's been independant tests done on the amp, tho, there's one floating around on this very forum, where it did over rated power.

The opti's are proven, they're golden.

The new 4000d is even remarketed by another company as a 6000 or a 6500 watt amplifier, it does well beyond it's rated power. They're all great amps, just too expensive for me to own another one right now.

 
Alright,thanks guys you have all been a major help in what I get so Lanzar it is no questions asked LOL.

I will be asking more about alternators and such in the near future...very near future and also batteries and whatnot.

Please have patience with a newbie that is serious about learning...thankyou and goodnight!

 
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