JL Haters

EX EX EX ... You need to piss to understand it.

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WE HAVE ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOP DEALERS! .....

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My g/f is pissing in my car.........

PAUSE............

I need a new sub!...........

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ILL GET AN EX EX EX!!!

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I think JL Audio sucks for SPL, but good for SQ. There price really really blows, I mean who would pay 200 dollers for a 100watt subwoofer? You could get a Audiobahn Immortal or Orion H2 for that price.

 
I think JL Audio sucks for SPL, but good for SQ. There price really really blows, I mean who would pay 200 dollers for a 100watt subwoofer? You could get a Audiobahn Immortal or Orion H2 for that price.
And that JL sub would only need 100 watts to do what it was intended to do: fill in the lower octaves of MUSIC at a reasonable listening level, and it would sound great doing it. The W0 series which are rated the lowest for power handling @125w can be had for around $100 from an authorized dealer. I don't understand why people think that you need 1kW of power to run a sub and that any sub that can't handle that kind of power is crap. There are people out there who want balanced and accurate sub-bass for their own listening enjoyment not the listening annoyment of those around them. JL makes their woofers for these people. They do their own R&D and that has to be financed somehow.

 
i personally dont' have anything against jl's stuff....i actually just got a 15w6 off ebay for 100$ //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/toast.gif.bc0657bf54b9ee653b6438524461341e.gif and have recommended them on numerous occasions.....

ps.....david........what do i buy if i crapped in the corner.................pause................splat......................pause

i'm thinking of something shiny

 
And that JL sub would only need 100 watts to do what it was intended to do: fill in the lower octaves of MUSIC at a reasonable listening level, and it would sound great doing it. The W0 series which are rated the lowest for power handling @125w can be had for around $100 from an authorized dealer. I don't understand why people think that you need 1kW of power to run a sub and that any sub that can't handle that kind of power is crap. There are people out there who want balanced and accurate sub-bass for their own listening enjoyment not the listening annoyment of those around them. JL makes their woofers for these people. They do their own R&D and that has to be financed somehow.
Hey helotaxi, I think you just explained it better than I could have. Its good to see someone with a brain. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
Yo, how come so many people in here rip on JL products?? From my take, it seems that it's just because they are higher priced than most other equipment.
I think its for a couple of reasons...
1st by far is cost...

2nd, its cool to hate JL... It seems like there are certain brands in everything that get popular for one reason or another and then everyone hates them...

Like Computers, Microsoft for example...

Everyone, hates Bill and anything to do with the Microsoft Machine...

Say what you want about it M.S. crashing or whaterver the dig and how much better your latest kernal of (insert linux,unix,solaris or other ux flavor) that you just compiled today is... Microsoft has done more for the internet and the PC market than any other OS...

(back on topic, sorry for the rant)

JL does make a good product and wins tons of awards every year...

With that I am by no means saying JL is the best....

I own several (5+ Subs of various sizes and models along with other brands too) Currently, I am saving to buy another brand that hopefully sounds as good, but will put out way more volume...

I think they are really good for a SQ install, but just don't have the balls for all out SPL...

Most of the people you hear bashing them are either complaing about the cost (rightfully so) or they compete SPL and are running subs that will handle multiple KWatts... Which is not JLs niche....

 
not trying to be a dick (seriously) just pointing out a link http://nexxon.com/jlaudio/subs.htm
They are not an "authorized dealer". Just like you can get Alpine and Eclipse from unauthorized dealers on the net so you can with JL. The difference is that you don't get any warranty support from the manufacturer. If you don't care about the warranty, then JL can be had pretty reasonably from several eBay sellers. I have a pretty good relationship with my local dealer. Result: I don't pay full retail.

It seems that most of the people that bad mouth JL do so because they are expecting every woofer to do one thing: get really loud. Well by and large, that's just not JL's bag. They started out when IASCA was in its prime and SQ was all that mattered. They have stayed their course building woofers whose purpose is to provide a solid low end that accurately reproduces the signal fed to it. They are great true "daily driver" subs because they do their job with very little power and they don't require the entire trunk for an enclosure. I am still considering using 3 of my old 10w6s in my new car. Less that 2cf for an optimal sealed enclosure for 3 10s and I won't need more than the 400 watts I will be feeding the trio for them to sound excellent and get more than loud enough to get a noise citation. To this day I'm still surprised that I never got a ticket when I had 6 of them in my truck. Of course I usually had the sub volume and crossover freq at near minimum. This was with only 800 watts for all 6. What did it meter at? Don't know, don't care. SPL ain't my thing. I listen to music and I'm really picky about it. I like my JL subs. After hearing them for the first time I have never bought anything else and I have never been disappointed. They do what I want and what I expect. Getting loud does not fall into my wants or expectations.

Some one on this thread said that they blow too easily. BS. If you are blowing them then you are doing someting wrong. If you are expecting them to be the loudest thing on the block and are blowing them trying to proove it then that is your problem. You are asking them to do something that they were not designed or capable of doing. Jacking your gains up and playing "volume master", you won't be happay with any woofer cause you'll blow them all abuseing them like that. Feed JL subs an unclipped signal and they will withstand well over their rated power for short periods of time. Feed them a clipped signal, and you can blow most any sub with way less than their rated power.

 
sorry ... didn't realize that they weren't an authorized dealer

and i'm one of the ppl on here who actually likes jl's quality... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/toast.gif.bc0657bf54b9ee653b6438524461341e.gif

but like everyone else on here i don't like their prices //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/greedy.gif.5a53e6246569d7ab79867170f3b06629.gif

 
They are not an "authorized dealer". Just like you can get Alpine and Eclipse from unauthorized dealers on the net so you can with JL. The difference is that you don't get any warranty support from the manufacturer. If you don't care about the warranty, then JL can be had pretty reasonably from several eBay sellers. I have a pretty good relationship with my local dealer. Result: I don't pay full retail.
It seems that most of the people that bad mouth JL do so because they are expecting every woofer to do one thing: get really loud. Well by and large, that's just not JL's bag. They started out when IASCA was in its prime and SQ was all that mattered. They have stayed their course building woofers whose purpose is to provide a solid low end that accurately reproduces the signal fed to it. They are great true "daily driver" subs because they do their job with very little power and they don't require the entire trunk for an enclosure. I am still considering using 3 of my old 10w6s in my new car. Less that 2cf for an optimal sealed enclosure for 3 10s and I won't need more than the 400 watts I will be feeding the trio for them to sound excellent and get more than loud enough to get a noise citation. To this day I'm still surprised that I never got a ticket when I had 6 of them in my truck. Of course I usually had the sub volume and crossover freq at near minimum. This was with only 800 watts for all 6. What did it meter at? Don't know, don't care. SPL ain't my thing. I listen to music and I'm really picky about it. I like my JL subs. After hearing them for the first time I have never bought anything else and I have never been disappointed. They do what I want and what I expect. Getting loud does not fall into my wants or expectations.

Some one on this thread said that they blow too easily. BS. If you are blowing them then you are doing someting wrong. If you are expecting them to be the loudest thing on the block and are blowing them trying to proove it then that is your problem. You are asking them to do something that they were not designed or capable of doing. Jacking your gains up and playing "volume master", you won't be happay with any woofer cause you'll blow them all abuseing them like that. Feed JL subs an unclipped signal and they will withstand well over their rated power for short periods of time. Feed them a clipped signal, and you can blow most any sub with way less than their rated power.
I am the one who said they blow too easy. Don't get me wrong, I love JL and still recommend them to people. And what I said was in reference to other subs on the market. Even JL knows they blow too easy when they came out with the "vented rib coil" which they said was to help cool the sub, and there has been some debate weather it actually worked. With the "VRC" the air could get in and cool but a lot of people had a problem with where the air could escape. Now JL said that the air dissappated through the spider, if thats true so be it but there are a lot of people that don't buy it. Now, as for me blowing JL's, you're right. When I blew my first JL I was a rookie. I was running three 12W6's in a ported box being powered by a PPI A1200. What my mistake was, not turning the gain too high, cause it was actually set at less than half power; when I installed my x-over(FRX-456) I didn't read the directions and set the frequencies WAAAY too low which launched one of my subs. As for the other ones it goes back to the VRC issue, when they were being played with RMS power as an everyday driver they just couldn't stand up. Let me leave with this; if they were tougher I would definitly still run them, I love their sq. It makes me almost sad that I had to convert.

 
I was running three 12W6's in a ported box being powered by a PPI A1200. What my mistake was, not turning the gain too high, cause it was actually set at less than half power; when I installed my x-over(FRX-456) I didn't read the directions and set the frequencies WAAAY too low which launched one of my subs. As for the other ones it goes back to the VRC issue, when they were being played with RMS power as an everyday driver they just couldn't stand up. Let me leave with this; if they were tougher I would definitly still run them, I love their sq. It makes me almost sad that I had to convert.
If you overdrive the amp, you will cook subs plain and simple. Depending on the level of the RCA inputs and the sensitivity range of the amp, half way on the gain could very well too high. The gain setting is not a "power level" control. It is intended to match the input sensitivity of the amp to the voltage level of the input signal. Nothing more. Too many people just don't understand that. Another thing that many don't understand is that running the head unit at high volume will cause its outputs to clip. Send that downstream to the amp and now it is amplifying a clipped signal. Clipping is clipping; it doesn't matter what the culprit piece of equipment is. Adding bass boost will cause it to clip sooner.

Also, there are two ways to "blow" a sub. You can exceed its thermal power handling and you can exceed its displacement limited power handling. The first is a factor of how well the motor structure sheds heat. This is what the typical power rating is referring to. It is mostly independent of enclosure size and type. The second is entirely determined by enclosure size and type. The sub needs the enclosure to keep from exceeding its excursion limits at higher power levels. Smaller sealed enclosures typically provide better control of the cone at higher power than a larger sealed box because the change in internal pressure in the box is higher when the airspace is smaller. Vented enclosures provide excellent cone control at or above the tuning frequency; however, they provide almost no cone control below the tuning freq and it is easy to damage the woofer with frequencies below the tuning frequency of the enclosure. For this reason JL as well as many other manufacturers recommend a subsonic filter be used to keep frequencies below the tuning freq away from the sub. It sounds like this is what you did to the first set of 12W6's. You exceeded their displacement limited power handling.

 
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