JL 8" midbass ZR800-CW-8

HawaiianBassHed
10+ year member

CarAudio.com Elite
anyone hear them? I bet they must get loud and sound ok? from what I've heard the JL XR and ZR mids are pretty good. so I'm guessing these must be decent... want something to replace my DLS reference 8"s with and I'll be running 3 way and have some 4" Xtant (morel) mids coming in to couple with whatever midbass I decide to run. I'm figuring for a start modeling clay on the DLS 8" baffles to the door may help. think I sealed it with deadener previous/currently.. and I'm upgrading amp power to 60wrms per side on the midbass alone and 35ea per mid and tweet 6 channel amp.. old school so I'm hoping it's underrated..

anyway, mostly looking for input on the sq output should be better in the bass region so I don't think I need to know how it fares there. tonally does it peak at a certain area thus needing some eq'ing to flatten it out? what are it's pro's and cons? thanks,

Tom

 
NICE, alot more helpful than the responses I got on diyma LOL who'd of thought. thanks again man, that's mostly what I wanted to hear.

do you know how high it plays while still no cone breakup?

 
NICE, alot more helpful than the responses I got on diyma LOL who'd of thought. thanks again man, that's mostly what I wanted to hear.
do you know how high it plays while still no cone breakup?
Straight from the horses mouth

APPLICATION INFORMATION

The ZR800-CW is a powerful 8-inch component woofer designed to operate in automotive sound systems reproducing the frequency range between 30 Hz and 400 Hz. It can be used in infinite baffle or enclosed applications as an extremely potent, dedicated midbass speaker or as a full woofer.

Active Filtering is Recommended: When used as a mid-bass speaker, we recommend the use of dedicated amplifier channels and active filtering (electronic crossovers) with the ZR800-CW. The ZR800-CW maintains smooth frequency response characteristics up to 500 Hz, so it is advisable to cross it over with mid-range speakers at 300-400 Hz to ensure a smooth transition. Pushing it higher than this range may result in uneven response which may require equalization to correct.
 
NICE, alot more helpful than the responses I got on diyma LOL who'd of thought. thanks again man, that's mostly what I wanted to hear.
do you know how high it plays while still no cone breakup?
Don't recall, heard two of them in an install, sounded very nice.

 
heard them the other day at my local jl dealer in one of their employees rides. he had two 12" w7s and ran 2 pair of the zr's off two 450/4v2s(also ran his comp set off the same amps) VERY nice!!

 
NICE, alot more helpful than the responses I got on diyma LOL who'd of thought. thanks again man, that's mostly what I wanted to hear.
do you know how high it plays while still no cone breakup?
you one lame and vague response...

this thread cause for spoon feeding, which diyma isn't about.

 
NICE, alot more helpful than the responses I got on diyma LOL who'd of thought. thanks again man, that's mostly what I wanted to hear. do you know how high it plays while still no cone breakup?
I would guess that few have these. Given the $229.95 each MSRP, I would think many over at DIYMA planning to spend that much on midbass would be looking at all of the raw drivers available from the like of Peerless, SEAS, Dayton, B&C, etc. The Peerless SLS driver for example looks to be a very nice midbass for ~$50 each. Nevertheless, You did see the Kipple results Manville posted for the ZR800 right?
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42079&highlight=ZR800-CW

That should be a good starting point short of actual in car measurements. If you know what your car is already doing in the midbass department you might be able to model them up. Do you have a midbass bump? Do you have midbass cancelations?

It looks like a nice driver and is labled as a MIDBASS driver so I don't think cone break-up is an issue unless you are trying to mate these up with small domes in the 600Hz-1KHz range. Given that you have 4" XTANTs that can get down in the 200Hz-300Hz range mating the two should not be an issue. As far as eq.....IMO all three-way front systems need some eq to sound best. Why spend more on drivers and amps and not have the processing power to balance them out?

I don't know when these actually started shipping but I think it might be a little early in trying to get a ton of responses about them? I was set on picking up a set of used Peerless SLS drivers for $100 but I am somewhat interested in the ZR800's . I like the mounting depth and the 4 ohm load. It seems just as capable as the SLS but might work a tad better IB in the door given the specs? I need to get a measurement of my car and model these up. I plan to see if my local dealer has them or has any feedback. It would be cool to get one of these and try it out....I have a source for an SLS to try out. Hummm....I REALLY need to hear these before spending $340 (Lowest dealer price I found so far) on them.

 
I would guess that few have these. Given the $229.95 each MSRP, I would think many over at DIYMA planning to spend that much on midbass would be looking at all of the raw drivers available from the like of Peerless, SEAS, Dayton, B&C, etc. The Peerless SLS driver for example looks to be a very nice midbass for ~$50 each. Nevertheless, You did see the Kipple results Manville posted for the ZR800 right?
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42079&highlight=ZR800-CW

That should be a good starting point short of actual in car measurements. If you know what your car is already doing in the midbass department you might be able to model them up. Do you have a midbass bump? Do you have midbass cancelations?

It looks like a nice driver and is labled as a MIDBASS driver so I don't think cone break-up is an issue unless you are trying to mate these up with small domes in the 600Hz-1KHz range. Given that you have 4" XTANTs that can get down in the 200Hz-300Hz range mating the two should not be an issue. As far as eq.....IMO all three-way front systems need some eq to sound best. Why spend more on drivers and amps and not have the processing power to balance them out?

I don't know when these actually started shipping but I think it might be a little early in trying to get a ton of responses about them? I was set on picking up a set of used Peerless SLS drivers for $100 but I am somewhat interested in the ZR800's . I like the mounting depth and the 4 ohm load. It seems just as capable as the SLS but might work a tad better IB in the door given the specs? I need to get a measurement of my car and model these up. I plan to see if my local dealer has them or has any feedback. It would be cool to get one of these and try it out....I have a source for an SLS to try out. Hummm....I REALLY need to hear these before spending $340 (Lowest dealer price I found so far) on them.
I also want to use the JLs, but think I might stick with something a bit cheaper, possibly the Exlcusive 8s or SLS 8s. The JL look like a better candidate for IB in doors than the SLS 8s, but considering that they are going to play such a limited range (50-200hz) a bit of EQ can work out the differences between the two.

 
I also want to use the JLs, but think I might stick with something a bit cheaper, possibly the Exlcusive 8s or SLS 8s. The JL look like a better candidate for IB in doors than the SLS 8s, but considering that they are going to play such a limited range (50-200hz) a bit of EQ can work out the differences between the two.
If you're gonna use your 8"s for only 50-200hz, then I'd suggest you go w/ the SLS 8s

OR the XLS 8s.

 
Sill might need a bit of EQ on the XLS's. I think I bump 40 hz by 2 dB or so (crossed at 50hz, 12 db/oct slope). They're not low end monsters or anything. I found the 7" Scan Rev to "fill out" the bottom end better, actually...and it's not even supposed to work IB. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

 
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HawaiianBassHed

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