Isolator/relay/solenoid? None?

Are you talking about the main power wire between the front and rear battery? If the front fuse blows then the rear one will too.
If the front fuses blows, the back battery will still have a charge, and will still be connected to his distro. As such, it will still be "live", because it still has a full charge, and is also grounded in the back as well, so current can flow back towards the front to where the wire is cut.

 
If the front fuse blows then it's because of a short between the two fuses, in which case both fuses will pop. If his amps are connected to the rear battery like they should be then his amps will continue to work until the charge drops too low in the rear battery, there will be no current running back to the front. The battery can still be grounded, but without the power wire connected to the front it's not going to keep a charge for long. This is a reason for having a fuse on the main power wire inches after the main battery and right before the rear one, and fuses after the dist block.

 
Perfect, also about the Big 3, the alt+ to bat+ does the fuse make any difference? I'd rather have it just incase, especially if it doesnt make a difference. Also would 300A be good enough as well?

 
That will be fine, you can add a fuse or not, it doesn't really make a difference. I had one when I first did it, but then removed it. The 0 ga wire is good for at least 300 amps, so a 300 amp wire will be fine. Besides, a 300 amp fuse won't really pop if it see's a little over that anyway it'll take more like a fast surge of 600 amps to pop it. I've had people test that theory in their car.

 
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